MIG HELP

[BuiltnotBought]

Evening All,

so I was wondering if some kind soul could explaine how they hell you get a weld to run like this (welds on the log)

I have tried and tried and tried but cannot do it.

don't know who made it nor were the pic came from. but it is definitely not mine

 

[mike 109444]

Looks nice. Think it is a bit like the "mig like tig" that was recently discussed on forum.
Wounder how many times someone tries to pull that axe out !

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I used to have one of those, it was given to me by someone who worked offshore and I understand the lads out there used to make them in their 'down time'.
I think they used offcuts of hawser for the log body.......

 

[God mode restorations]

Looks good..although I would say it's more mma than mig...

 

[gordon stephenson]

I have made a few of those years ago, Very popular thing to make in heavy industry situations when you had a couple of spare moments . Seems like every welder was at it in those days, As far as i remember just stainless rods laid down onto stainless tubing, I think my daughter might still have a couple that i made, one as pictured in the previous post and one was a horizontal log with an open top to be used as a posy bowl. see if i can remember to take a couple of **** next time i visit her,

 

[Richard.]

Are you sure it's mig? The finger nailing effect seen on them runs is a classic effect achieved from mma.

 

[gordon stephenson]

Definitely stick welding.Most of them had a couple of short branches also, and had the cross braces "bark effect too"

 

[BuiltnotBought]

well that would explain a thing or two... like why I couldn't do it with the MIG will have to bust the stick out and try that then. made one the other week but don't like the runs. they were to smooth. didn't leave as good a bark effect. Though I made a very careful slit in my lot for the axe to freely sit in... and everyone takes it out!

 

[BuiltnotBought]

thanks by the by

 

[Jim Davey]

You want a rod with a fast freeze so that the ridges will be more pronounced and use a whip-pause technique to accentuate the ridges.

 

[Richard.]

Cellulosic rods yes would perform that perfect. Downside not Many sets light em up well

 

[BuiltnotBought]

You want a rod with a fast freeze so that the ridges will be more pronounced and use a whip-pause technique to accentuate the ridges.

yep, sounds great all that does... definitely have NOOOOOOOOOOOOO idea what it means though

I can take a guess, but it is a guess!

 

[Jim Davey]

Means you need an all positional rod, not a downhand only rod.
And you want to move along in a bit of a flick, then pause to build up material but try not to be too rhythmic, if they look uneven and inconsistent they'll look less artificial. Hope that clears it up a little. If your set won't run a cellulosic maybe it will run a 7018 ok, most of them have a harsher ridged bead profile than a general purpose 6013.

 

[God mode restorations]

Whip and pause techniques. .....mig like tig again

 

[Jim Davey]

You got it.

 

[BuiltnotBought]

hehehe I love this site. Chears guys. Though I hate how easy you make it sound. will have a practice the next weekend I have free with some standard rods and go from there.


Though why do I ñeed an all position rod? can I not just turn the bar round as I go?

 

[gordon stephenson]

All position rod recommended just for the fast freeze aspect and not because you have to weld the log in a static position.

 

[Woody.v8]

So to weld a seasonal log , I need to weld exactly opposite of how i was taught!!

 

[Jim Davey]

Fast freezing rods will allow the weld to solidify very cast capturing the ridges and imperfections you are looking for. A "soft" burning rod like most GP 6013s will "wet out" leaving too smooth a surface, leaving your welds looking like welds. It's not so you can do the welds without turning the log.

 

[Richard.]

Yeah the reason for cels is not to challenge yourself and weld it out of position nor is it to weld it in a manner that you've been taught. It's because they solidify quickly so you get that prominent ridge effect that your looking for to resemble the log bark. So you whip and it freezes then whip and it freezes as you go along. Vary it with time and whip distance to really enhance the reality that the log bark will not be consistent. It's art not welding so there are no rules. Practice till you get the effect your looking for. Just don't take that practice onto a joint.