Metal hut roof leaking

[mrsbruce]

Another thought. The leak is coming through the last screw in the bracket, which suggests that the water is coming in near the third tin girder (on the right of picture) otherwise it would be running down the cable, or out via the screws in the bracket nearer the door.

Previously, the leak was down the side, down the plywood wall (in line with the new leak area) and also out a screw in the plastic ceiling panel 2 feet nearer the door, and 6” away from the wall, but these seem to have stopped.

Help!

 

[Gritineye]

First rule of roof leaks when the underside is clad, the place that the water arrives inside will have no relation whatever to the place it went in.

The water will flow along the top of the foam sticking up and find new ways in.

You should always try and form a drip at the edge of any sheet or the underside of the ridge for that reason. The foam may not have stuck to the dirty underside of the ridge and capillary action may be at work.

 

[mrsbruce]

I foolishly left the hubby’s insulation in place, and just filled in the gaps he’d left. I taped around all of the insulation with aluminiun tape, but the old insulation was small polystyrene sheets.

I have a vague memory of the hubby complaining that drips were coming through one of the tin girders. It consists of two pieces of metal sandwiched together stretching the length if the hut on either side of the main centre rafter/girder. It bolts on the outside walls, and the roofing is screwed down onto that. Wherever the leak us coming fromm, I think it is using the tin side girder as a wick.

Sorry, this thread is probably more of a “me clearing my head”, and trying to work out on paper what to do next.

 

[gaz1]

How long that tin shed been up

NOt the thing you want to read but some times its best to leave alone till spring
Strip off insulation and then roof start again with new screws with rubbers on sealing as you go sheets arnt that big so can do it from inside the hut till last pieces go on

SOunds drastic but in end better to do the roof right sealing as you go refitting it then you know its right in end

MIght be worth leaving alone till then

THen plan your actions and materials needed

 

[mrsbruce]

How long that tin shed been up

NOt the thing you want to read but some times its best to leave alone till spring
Strip off insulation and then roof start again with new screws with rubbers on sealing as you go sheets arnt that big so can do it from inside the hut till last pieces go on

SOunds drastic but in end better to do the roof right sealing as you go refitting it then you know its right in end

MIght be worth leaving alone till then

THen plan your actions and materials needed

The hut’s been up well over 10 years, and I know the hubby lost interest 3/4 of the way through the build, so just bunged it up in the end, which probibly hasn’t helped. I took some levels, and the hut seems to slope from the back to the front, even with the bit if a dip along its length. The ceiling slopes from front to back

I was out there again, and I think you are right. I had thought it just needed a bit of a tidy up, but there is obviously something just not right going on, as it’s quite a big leak, or at least bigger than I am happy with.

While out there, I poured some red food dye from the top ridge down one side if the slope. There is a slight colour change from one drip area, so leak seems to be about 3/4 way back the hut length. There’s a fibreglass ‘light’ in the roof in that area, which might be the culprit.

I will go ahead and give everything a coat of roof leak paint anyway, and stick some buckets under the leak for winter.

 

[mrsbruce]

Yes, I can confirm that the food dye is coming through the ceiling, so I’ve isolated a 4’x2’ roof area that’s leaking.

I’ll leave an hour to see if it works its way through the other leak area. If not, I’ll pour more food colour on the far end, and see if it works through. If not, that leaves the rear left side of the roof.

Even if I do a temporary patch for over winter, and I shall be happy.

 

[magicgrotto]

Hi mrsbruce , have you thought of FLASH BAND ?? expensive I Know but will seal leak untill the better weather turns up

 

[gaz1]

Flashband is crap dint even bother using that crap

 

[magicgrotto]

Why's that then ??

 

[mrsbruce]

Applied dye, but nothing showing at other leak. This suggest that one of the leaks may be water being blown in at the ridge. It’s been a Southerly wind, so wondering if I was wrong about not foaming the far left side (southerly).

Many thanks for suggestions, I shall ponder before committing to other than a bit more foam, and sone leak paint. I’ve got 3/4 of a tin, so won’t hurt to use it up.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

While out there, I poured some red food dye from the top ridge down one side if the slope

Good luck and hope you get it sorted, even on a temporary basis as @gaz1 suggests. There's nothing worse than water where it isn't supposed to be.
Oh, and change to food dye colour, otherwise you'll never be able to tell if you've cut yourself

 

[mrsbruce]

As I poured the deep red food dye over the roof, I was thankful it was on the side away from my immediate neighbours view.

It looked like I had just made some kind of sacrifice, and was pouring blood over the hut to bless it in a weird demonic ritual.

 

[gaz1]

Why's that then ??

IVe used it before when people dont want to pay for proper stuff it just peels off even if you heat it so it sticks better it still comes off

I refuse to garantee anything if they want to use that crap because I know what it will do

 

[PhillipM]

I find it's fine so long as you use the primer and put it on warm, I've had jobs I did 'temporarily' 10 years ago are still fine, left them as they were.

 

[magicgrotto]

Heat gun & a hard roller works for me

 

[Gritineye]

With respect, if mrsbruce is having to use a pole/stick to reach up to apply foam, with the best will in the world she'll find it rather tricky to apply flash band to a good standard, it's hard enough standing an a scaffold in the summer.

 

[mrsbruce]

With respect, if mrsbruce is having to use a pole/stick to reach up to apply foam, with the best will in the world she'll find it rather tricky to apply flash band to a good standard, it's hard enough standing an a scaffold in the summer.

Thanks, I’m only wee.

 

[Gritineye]

If all else fails poly sheet and rope is very cheap, lashed with rope side to side over the ridge plenty of times to prevent flapping it should last the winter, depending on your wind exposure.

Good practice for the coming present season too

https://www.scaffolding-direct.co.uk/tarpaulins/

https://www.scaffolding-direct.co.uk/tarpaulin-accessories/

 

[mrsbruce]

If all else fails poly sheet and rope is very cheap, lashed with rope side to side over the ridge plenty of times to prevent flapping it should last the winter, depending on your wind exposure.

Good practice for the coming present season too

https://www.scaffolding-direct.co.uk/tarpaulins/

https://www.scaffolding-direct.co.uk/tarpaulin-accessories/

Funnily enough, I was talking to a friend on the phone about that, and it is my reluctant “if all else fails” plan.

I refuse to use blue tarpaulin, though, but the camo, or clear could be acceptable.

 

[Gritineye]

Funnily enough, I was talking to a friend on the phone about that, and it is my reluctant “if all else fails” plan.

I refuse to use blue tarpaulin, though, but the camo, or clear could be acceptable.

I have their heavy duty green covering some stuff, I would say it's medium quality and reasonably tough, certainly better that Lidles offering for similar money.