Measuring up and installing railings advice

[Mr_Ke1th]

About to start making a garden rail for my house which is 7.5m long and runs with a small curve and small rake. Was planning on using four panels taking out the curve and putting a rake on them.

Is there a standard for installation? I mean would you normally put the posts in then once set, bolt on panels? How do you get the post heights and distance apart accurate? Welding onsite required? Any other tips appreciated! Thanks

 

[cumbriasteve]

A photo of the location would help a lot.

Personally I would never use straights to cover a curve, it never looks right and if its only a slight curve you can curve the bar by tapping along the edge when it's supported across two blocks of hardwood or similar.

Because it's your house that makes it easier, you can tap away and do multiple test fits until its right.

Without seeing the job I would probably fit the posts and custom make the frames to fit between them.

 

[Kent]

I would check all the levels ( using blocks or wedges) mark the post positions in French chalk. If the post bases need angling do so during fabrication

The railings can fit with m10 csk to slotted plates with cap head nuts or be directly welded ( mechanical fastenings just allow for better galv finish and paint)

I am also in favour of making a bend a bend rather than faceting it. Get some ply or hardboard and scribe the curve onto it and copy directly.

Combination of heat, bending forks and flattening on the anvil works up to say 50 x12 and most rails are only say 40x10. You can also roll it or have it rolled by a firm. It's very easy to roll across the flat or bend that way - but I assume your going on its edge ( the hard way)

Experience is the best teacher for this stuff, good luck just take your time

 

[Mr_Ke1th]

Thanks guys, some sound advice there. I'll try get some pictures up. Meant to say it's on top of soil too, that's why I'm wondering about getting post heights correct but I'm assuming a string line here. I've fabricated hundreds of meters of bow top in past but never had to measure or install!

I like the idea of setting the posts in first and then measuring the sections, sounds ideal. What's your thoughts on this method for customers too?

You guys are right about making the bend too. I was planning on scrolled panels in the centre of each section though and there wasn't much in it but will have to invest in a roller now..

One more thing, 30x8 flat bar - 16mm spindles and 40x40 posts, sound ok? Much difference going up any sizes there?

 

[waddycall]

I'd be tempted to make the lot then bolt it all together, dig your post holes where needed, prop it in the final position then put some post mix in the holes. When it's set take the props out.

 

[Kent]

Thanks guys, some sound advice there. I'll try get some pictures up. Meant to say it's on top of soil too, that's why I'm wondering about getting post heights correct but I'm assuming a string line here. I've fabricated hundreds of meters of bow top in past but never had to measure or install!

I like the idea of setting the posts in first and then measuring the sections, sounds ideal. What's your thoughts on this method for customers too?

You guys are right about making the bend too. I was planning on scrolled panels in the centre of each section though and there wasn't much in it but will have to invest in a roller now..

One more thing, 30x8 flat bar - 16mm spindles and 40x40 posts, sound ok? Much difference going up any sizes there?

30 x 8 too small for 16 mm spindles 40 x 10 better. You only have 7 mm a side to fit fillet welds in and frankly it's going to distort - badly!

If your setting into ground I go 5 mm wall not the usual 3 mm and always galv. Set the posts in pack them with a few rocks to true. Pour in the postcrete then the water and allow to set up well

You don't particularly need a roller - if you ain't the cash for a good one send the rails out for bending to template or if you have burning gear do it hot with forks

 

[Mr_Ke1th]

Cheers for pointing out the size of the flat bar, got a bit muddled up there. Metal being delivered tomorrow for new workbench and railings. Going with 40x10 flat bar and 16mm spindles... Is it the 'norm' to have 30x8 flat bar with 12mm spindles on regular rails?

Could do with investing in a roller anyhow... Thrashsmith gave a good shout for the ones on eBay, I'll have to look it up.

Waddycall I think that's the way I'm gonna do it but just one panel at a time

 

[cumbriasteve]

I think it depends on other factors such as the height, where it's at, what's it protecting or is it just for show, is there other steelwork in the locality that would be nice to match up to for weight and profile

In many circumstances 12mm bar can be fine for the infills, although once you get over 500mm in length then it does not have the strength.

Many times I have went to price up a job with an image of what I was using in my mind only to be way out when I saw the setting.

The picture shows a fairly simple job I did a couple of years ago, 12mm in 25mm box frame, if however the height was much more than shown I would have used 14mm in 30mm box frame and increasing to 16mm in 40mm box if 2 metres or over height.

Apart from strength it has to look right and sometimes you can go overboard on the weight of the steel when it's actually not required.

 

[Kent]

Cheers for pointing out the size of the flat bar, got a bit muddled up there. Metal being delivered tomorrow for new workbench and railings. Going with 40x10 flat bar and 16mm spindles... Is it the 'norm' to have 30x8 flat bar with 12mm spindles on regular rails?

Could do with investing in a roller anyhow... Thrashsmith gave a good shout for the ones on eBay, I'll have to look it up.

Waddycall I think that's the way I'm gonna do it but just one panel at a time

Just think 12 mm spindles looks a bit 70s but the heat input could allow 30x 8 rails without the distortion being so bad - with 16 mm spindles it would look like the mid Atlantic once welded
Did a sample in it and have yet to have a client choose it ( 18" high Railing). Works as a good cost justifier though

 

[steve t]

if Theres a fall and a curve I would do a good template on site, go back to workshop and roll the curves to template then head back to site and fab up the frames on site, depending on the curve you may need to twist the top and bottom rails to keep flush with ground like doing a spiral.