Little boring help plz

[Shox Dr]

Yes. You are probably right

But I still dont think it's good practice to have a cutter at a length of some 150 to 200 mm from spindle mt2. And unsupported at the other end.

I have two tom seniors.

The major with the quill head as per photos and a standard tom senior with a knuckle head.

I have a horizontal arbor for both

I might use the horizontal arbor to line bore.

Failing that. Turn the knuckle head to 90deg. Make a line boring arbor and support it at the other end with a tail stock. And line bore it using the full travel of the table

That’s the beauty of cats... plenty of ways to skin them

 

[ronan]

 

[Piero]

This is my boring and facing head, should be up to the job.

My self made boring bar to get down to 85mm.

The original boring bars that come with the head are a lot shoshor.

Maybe that's saying something


As I was posting this. Something sprung to mind.

Do they not say you SHOULD support work in the lathe if its stickout is longer than 3 Xs its dia.

So my 20mm boring bar should stick out no more than 60mm

 

[pressbrake1]

Use stronger steel for the boring bar
You have a really good boring head, maybe bit big for small mill

This is a hole bored 25mm x 125 deep held to .01mm (ok done on a as new jig bore) but its not too hard.

 

[Piero]

Yes. Your very right. My boring head is a little to big for my mill but at £45 with its box and all its attachments. I couldn't say no lol

My boring bar is only stainless steel
It's all I had. And that was a nightmare to file a perfectly square hole in it for my cutting bit.

What else could/should I use instead

 

[Fazerruss]

You could try fitting the boring head in the horizontal harbour for extra rigidity. I did it this way when making the parts to attach my Bridgeport head to my M1. My boring head is also MT2 .

 

[gaz1]

heres a horizontal mill doing the same thing

 

[mtt.tr]

Setting up to bore in the lathe is an awful lot of messing about requiring shims and messing about to get it into location!