i found a document that shoes a linde brand torch that seems to be a water cooled MIG but looks like a TIG torch that the back was replaced by conduit...
does anyone know anything about it?
just did some research, apparently there was, until 2000, the MT-200 MIG gun for this particular welder. am i correct with that info, and should, therefore, try to find one?
edit: yup, the MT-200 and MT-400 are designed specifically for the feeder i have and, as such, include the plug i need!
is there anywhere that will supply it?
okay, the gun does have everything needed, also the twist lock connector is there.
just so i get the right gun, how do i measure the feeder rolls to know what wire to use?
is it depth of the groove, or the width at the top, or what?
okay.
just opened it back up today, everything is covered in a thick, nasty oil of some sort
gonna try the acetone mix
i could barely make a dent in it all with 2 cans of carb cleaner and a can of WD-40
im gonna need a LOT of mix it looks
all of the transformers (about four) are not potted or oil cooled (luckily), but covered in a really large amount of the oil
the main current dial is frozen, one can to eneble me to move it with a pair of vise-grips to assist.
Mine was full of oily slime also. Probably hydraulic fluid.
The Airco came off with denatured alcohol, but slowly. I used a full gallon.
I'd be careful with acetone as it can dissolve the enamel on the transformer windings and soften paint.
The Lincoln I had, i just put a trash bag over the control panel. Wheeled it outside and sprayed it with Simple Green. Let sit, then hosed it down inside and out. Was only way to clean it out. Then hit it with a blow gun on my compressor. Then let sit outside in the sun.
well, the mix you recommended works quite well (acetone/steering fluid)
i need something with more power than a squirt bottle to deliver it
sadly, it did not unfreeze the fine voltage control dial
denatured alcohol or simple green... will need to try those
yeah, the stuff inside appears to be hydraulic fluid as well for some reason
ugh... the really nasty old stuff, probably of a high toxicity as well
okay, more info here
the one trans has some older style tape on it that has 919503 written on it, then some space, then just a H
this machine has no enamel transformer windings
it's got that really old woven fabric (?) coating on the wires
even the thicker wires have that old style fabric insulation coating
this machine is around 50+ years old, judging by insulation alone
just did some work on the feeder, was checking for a torch
just found a brochure for a esab machine, they offer the MIG-35 as an accessory to it, but the unit they show has a differing connector between the drive rolls and torch
so, i guess the ebay torch will do, i just will need toe connector unit?
the one they show is this big black chunk with a gas hose and power cable
mine is a more "t" shaped unit with gas hose only (someone removed power cable i guess)
the top says tweco
the bottom of it says ak-1 by the feeder and 7 by the cable connection
esab will probably sell the torch/feeder adapter unit and appropriate drive rolls, right?
back to subject at hand, acetone shouldn't damage the old fabric wrapped wires, right?
You have a Tweco adapter on the feeder. My Airco has the same:
Should be the same as the "T" on the left of the above pic.
The big black chunk may be a Tweco block used on their bigger guns like my #2:
I would not look for an ESAB gun as it would likely just be a re-badged Tweco with an inflated price. Any gun with a Tweco connector would fit. The trigger wires may need an adapter; most guns come these days with just bare wires so you can add the correct connector.
The wires may be in bad shape, probably any solvent will dissolve them. I'd replace any that don't look good.
now for weirder, the incoming red power wire is just taped to the green ground wire
it doesn't connect to anything
just terminates mid-air and is taped alongside the ground
erm... where is it supposed to connect to?
or does this one even connect to anything at all?
i'm assuming it connects to one of the input power fuses, bar stips, or control box (of some sort, no idea what it truly is)