Lift TIG

[Mid Wales welder]

Hello all,
I had to use lift TIG this morning for a quick job as our HF machine is being repaired, I very rarely use this so not quite sure about it. The tungsten seamed to stick quite often and was just wondering if anyone has this problem and there is a way to combat this?

 

[Masterofnone]

Hello all,
I had to use lift TIG this morning for a quick job as our HF machine is being repaired, I very rarely use this so not quite sure about it. The tungsten seamed to stick quite often and was just wondering if anyone has this problem and there is a way to combat this?

I use a use a largeish carbon motor brush tapered at one end.
Put it close to where you would like to start, strike the arc on the brush and then move the arc to the start of the weld.

 

[Maker]

I tried it once, the easiest way was to rest the shroud on the material and rock the tungsten onto it then off again, the tungsten didn't stick once using this method.

 

[Paul.]

I use a use a largeish carbon motor brush tapered at one end.
Put it close to where you would like to start, strike the arc on the brush and then move the arc to the start of the weld.

That's a technique used by some for scratch start, although I've never felt the need to strike on anything but the job
Lift arc is different, I know I've posted this before but a reminder of the difference.

scratch start sets are normally little more than DC arc welders with a tig torch fitted, permanently live torch, no contactor, gas or slope down control, just scratch to start, break of smartly to stop, gas is controlled by a manual valve on the torch,

Lift arc has a few slight variations but generally has some electronic control, for example my stel in lift arc mode, gas is controlled by a valve in the machine, the welding power is under the control of a contactor in the machine controlled by the button on the torch.
So you would touch the electrode to the job, press the torch button, this starts the gas, power comes on but the machine senses a dead short because you are touched down and applies a minimum current to prevent sticking, then when you lift the electrode the machine senses it and welding current flows, at the end of the weld release the button, the current stops subject to any slope down or post gas settings you have set,

 

[Maker]

Am I right in thinking that HF capable machines have a lift arc function for use around electrical equipment or is there another reason?

 

[doubleboost]

Am I right in thinking that HF capable machines have a lift arc function for use around electrical equipment or is there another reason?

It can be used on automotive applications
Suposidley safer than the HF

 

[HughF]

Am I right in thinking that HF capable machines have a lift arc function for use around electrical equipment or is there another reason?

Not usually, every machine I've used with HF start just has HF start (or put it in stick mode and scratch start with a valved torch)

 

[Mid Wales welder]

I tried it once, the easiest way was to rest the shroud on the material and rock the tungsten onto it then off again, the tungsten didn't stick once using this method.

I have done that on a different machine the one time I have used lift TIG before and as I remember didn't have any problems. This time though I was welding in a tight spot with a gas lense and the tungsten sticking out too far to do that. As tig Paul said the tungsten needs to be touching the work piece before the trigger is pressed I think the problem may have been that I was preening the trigger and then touching down. Would this maybe be the problem?