I have had 3 fail in a year. Various mid quality makes.
I think 2 or 3 more are failing.
They aren't on dimmer circuits and only get a few hours use a day.
- Thread starter MattF
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I have had 3 fail in a year. Various mid quality makes.
I think 2 or 3 more are failing.
They aren't on dimmer circuits and only get a few hours use a day.
I have some of the earlier Philips ones with integral heat sinks - still very good bulbs and all working, I have some cheap standard style ones, only one has failed but it was DOA. I got some of the filament type that have the exposed wires covered in LEDs - 2 of them detonated and sent burning plastic everywhere, luckly I was in the room at the time but the did quite a bit of damage so the rest of them went in the bin. Replaced them with some Amazon Basics non-filament ones (I have always found Amazons own brand stuff to be very good quality) but they have not bee in long enough to see if any fail.
Edit: Having seen updated reviews I am now wondering if I am lucky the Amazon bulbs I have are all still working!
Edit: Having seen updated reviews I am now wondering if I am lucky the Amazon bulbs I have are all still working!
But all that hydro power tends to make your electricity a bit damp, it will corrode all the pins
brightspark
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keep getting companys ringing me up asking if I want cheap energyWhere do you live?
England has very hard electricity unlike up here in Scotland.
err no thanks id rather have quality and pay more for it 
the phone goes dead or they laugh and carry on the spiel
grim_d
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How does that even happen? A bit scary really.
I've got 6 of that type, 3 in hall and 3 in living room and they barely even get warm nevermind hot enough to explode!
They're glass too so it'd be even worse!
But all that hydro power tends to make your electricity a bit damp, it will corrode all the pins
My house was built In 1881, the electricity might as well be damp too.
Cobbler
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My house was built In 1881, the electricity might as well be damp too.
The pre-decimal lecky causes problems with the digital LEDs
Underneath the bit you can see, inside of the metal screw in cap there are some electronics, it was those that went and caused the issue, there was a buzzing and flickering but not for long (I did not make it to the light switch in time) and bang. A couple of days later it happened again so they all went in the bin.
WorkshopChris
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Not to sure about the Screwfix ones i picked up a flyer in store last week, they dont have much confidence with them as they are making a feature of "Up to 20 Hours Life"
J1nx
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20 hours is bad for even the LAP LEDs!
I have a mix of Philips and LAP GU10s, 3 LAP failures so far, 0 Philips. 4 years approx, roughly ten of each, failed LAPs are now Philips.
I now go for warm, wide beams. High CRI would be great but not many specify this last time I looked.
I have a mix of Philips and LAP GU10s, 3 LAP failures so far, 0 Philips. 4 years approx, roughly ten of each, failed LAPs are now Philips.
I now go for warm, wide beams. High CRI would be great but not many specify this last time I looked.
Why ? Just because they aren't as efficient as some other type of light ?
I'm very sensitive to flicker, a traditional filament bulb doesn't flicker even though the AC is pulsing through it because the filament can't heat up and cool down quick enough but LED's do flicker as they use a PWM regulator to regulate the output. Sadly a lot of LED lights flicker in the 50 to 100 Hz range and that can be perceived by some people (myself included) and it's not only annoying it can be migraine inducing.
Trying to find what frequency most LED's run at is an exercise in futility.
slim_boy_fat
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slim_boy_fat
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But all that hydro power tends to make your electricity a bit damp, it will corrode all the pins
We regularly spray all electrical stuff with WD-40
Into light fittings.
Where in what regard?
Garage workshop, ceiling, a piece of equipment that is going to get the holy proverbial shaken out of it on a daily basis ?
For internal ceiling lights approx 2300 to 2700 from finished floor I have had better results taking out the existing fittings and swapping over to LED cob lights, brand name "Led Lite" from TLC-Direct. They are supplied with photometric data ( which makes a nice change ) rather than exaggerated claims of "brighter than the sun at one furlong"
Then whilst you are at it have a look at the varilight eclique pro dimmers, also found on TLC.Ceiling fixtures.
Offer trailing and leading edge. Soft start. IR versions can run from a scene control unit at approx £15 + vat.
I remember scene control being an expensive thing ( but that was when computers had tape drives and you would listen to the tunes on the wireless )
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufa...ique_Touch_Dimmers_Stainless_Steel/index.html
I also get migraines from flickering lights.
I am against banning anything but why they banned filament bulbs instead of halogen GU10s is beyond me. Typically 1x 100W bulb would light a room as well as probably 10 or 15 GU10s!
WorkshopChris
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In the inside pages, most are quoted as 20,000 or 25,000 hours.Surely that's a typo?
Just makes you wonder how many well-paid people signed off on that before it went to print or even during the print run and nobody picked up on it.
