Lathe Advice

[busastars]

Just wanted a little advice on what to look for in a lathe. I am moving in a few weeks, been to see the house and now know I have not got enough space for a full size student lathe. I did fancy a Harrison L5 but its to big, Myford ML7 etc are to expensive.

One question, if I bought a half size lathe would there be any reason why I couldent run from the chuck on the lathe to maybe another headstock just to turn it so I could turn larger diameters?

Hope that made sence

I have seen a fair few on ebay now but not 100% sure on what im buying, maybe someone here knows alot about alot of makes etc that can give me advice on a few im looking at via PM

 

[piman]

Hello BS,

"One question, if I bought a half size lathe would there be any reason why I couldent run from the chuck on the lathe to maybe another headstock just to turn it so I could turn larger diameters?"

Sorry, that doesn't make sense to me, could you rephrase the question.

How much room do you have as I have a Colchester Student and it doesn't take much room at all?

Alec

 

[shenion]

A lot of lathes have riser blocks to raise the headstock, tailstock and toolpost. That is the easiest way to turn larger diameters. If you have a mill or know someone who does,they can be made easily (especially in lathes with flat ways.)

An ML7 would be a good choice. There is very little difference between the ML7 and my Craftsman/Atlas 12x36. Have seen it mentioned that one was a clone of the other.

This is my 3rd lathe. First was a "watchmakers lathe". Just too small and too weak to turn anything larger than 1" (can handle larger in brass or alum.)

Second was a AA/Dunlap lathe. An ebay deal I bid on without doing enough research. Probably one of the sloppiest lathes ever mare. Took me months of work and lots of replacement parts to get it semi-accurate.

You need to research the lathes. I saw the Craftsman on Craigs list and went onto the appropriate Yahoo group. Searched the messages and saw the problems people had were minor. It is scoffed at by "professionals" as it cant take of 0.125" per pass and accuracy is near 0.002".

Check what is available and do some google and Yahoo group searches.

Be sure to check out the lathes.co.uk pages and their lathe advice page. They have a great history on almost any make of lathe. Great for identifying which model an ad has and what year it is.

 

[busastars]

Not 100% sure how much room but couldent go upto a harrison L5 size, something upto a Myford ML7 size tops.

What I mean is could you attatch a pully & belt from the chuck of the lathe to run another chuck/headstock free standing slightly away from the lathe so you have more room to turn something larger.
Like running one side by side but only a head stock & chuck for the add on.

Still not sure if that made sence, im rubbish at explaining things in word.

 

[busastars]

I may aswell make a quick list of a few ive got in my watch list and take a few opinions.

Myford ML2
Boxford "not sure on model"
Little John
Colchester Bantam
ML7 but they seem to be fetching alot of money £500 +

Previously saw a few Vicory's and they all seem to fetch £150-300

 

[piman]

Hello BS,

I don't think that your idea is a starter. And it would surely take more room anyway?

What size work do you want to turn? If it is diameter, look for lathe's that have a 'gap' on the bed nearest the headstock. Usually this is removable so is not always obvious at a casual look.

Alec

 

[lchris21]

Small lathe.......................... se here:
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=9964&page=2

I only got a single garage, rammed with stuff and the lathe sits ncely in a corner. Offhand I think the footprint is approx 15" deep (with drip tray) and approx 3foot long.
Not a monster agreed, but very versatile for what I want. Mines a 4.5" center they do come in 5" also.

Would'nt be without it now

 

[stormin]

I find it hard to imagine how you would set up a second headstock next to a small lathe and get it stable and aligned well enough to use. You would also have to set up another toolpost.

As suggested elsewhere the best solution is to use a spacer block for the existing headstock and tailstock. This is quite easily done with a flat bed lathe, that is belt driven. In fact the perfect set-up for this type of arrangement is probably a Myford.

You'll probably find with all the accesories for Myfords that spacer blocks are available ready machined to suit.
You will of course have to re-align head and tailstocks every time you add or remove the spacer.

 

[busastars]

Thanks for the advice, I gess the spacer idea is the way forward with what I buy.

Other questions, if I bought something with wear in the bed how much or how easy is it to get sorted out, also a friend told me he rebuild his Harrison L7 and he said head stock bearings are a nightmare to get hold of and cost over £100 a side, does that sound about right? Anything else to look out for?

 

[Pete.]

Quite simply, don't touch anything that has headstock bearing problems or excessive bed wear. Some wear is kinda inevitable, but if the saddle is knocking about up near the headstock but too tight to move near the tailstock you're going to spend your whole life adjusting the gibs.

 

[busastars]

Seen a lathe that I quite liked, not a bad discription but responce of the guy is useless. This is exactly how the messages are, is it me or is he beeing an @rse?

Me:

Hi, just wondering how much would you take for the lathe?
Thanks

Responce:

hi,well i think if you placed a bid your 'wondering' might be over

Me:

Thanks for the reply, I take it there is no reserve. Reason I ask about how much you want is because your a long way and I need to consider fuel etc and its always nice to know if its in my price range. I am interested though.
Just wondering with it assembled do you think it will go in an estate car?
Thanks

Responce:

yes there is a reserve and it says reserve not met which says it all really


This is the Lathe:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280321627629&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123

 

[Pete.]

Wouldn't touch it.
His descriptions are ambitious and I wouldn't trust him to know enough about the machine to look after those headstock bearings. The 4-jaw looks far too big for the class of lathe. Pictures are either very close or very far making it hard to discern the true condition. 'Fine' could mean anything and the whole advert seems written in such a way as to give him an argument out of any complaint.

On top of that, the guy's 'clever' replies make him out to be a plain ****. I'd keep looking mate.

 

[shenion]

Yes, he does not even know what it is. So, no way he knows how good it is or what condition it is in.

The guy I bought my lathe from was open. Told me the few issues (tailstock taper did not seem right, countershaft pulley was "odd".) Answered my questions: Half nuts worn? Have never looked at them, they work fine.

Anything as-is is probably a basket case. I bet he fried the spindle bearings

 

[stormin]

I don't think his repsonses are unreasonable.
He's obviously looking for as much as he can get, why sell it before the end.
Most auctions seem to have a bidding frenzy in the last few minutes.
Why don't you factor your fuel cost into the amount you're prepared to bid anyway?

As to the lathe itself!
No "Dongs" that made me chuckle.

Not sure but looks like there may be an intermediate drive shaft missing which limits the speed ranges.

Those spacers may give you extra room for turing large diameters but bear in mind the bed width is narrow and as a result stiffness won't compare with a larger lathe turning similar diameters.

Also consider how the tool will reach to the larger diameter. The cross slide and tool post were'nt meant to reach that far out.

My colchester student will supposedly turn 18" diameter with the gap piece removed. Wouldn't want to try and get a tool to reach that far out though and take a useful cut.

 

[busastars]

Thanks Pete.

I may aswell list what I got in my watch list just incase I have a punt for one. ALL views welcome as I dont want to buy a nail
Not sure how much thay all would be worth but I do plan on getting a bargin that someone may have missed or to far from them, the less I can spend the better as work at the moment is non existant and Im still after a few more tools like a slip roller etc.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=300299084321

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=230330412548

This Harrison is to big but I do like it and its local'ish
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=300298578989

Im gessing this will go too much and Clark would be slated on hear.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=120389913385

This looks nice, prob to much money and distance. Warco
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=160320846230

Myford ML2
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=260375884689

 

[Pete.]

I'd take the Harrison then the Boxford then the Warco. Harrison is big and heavy and needs money spent on it to convert to single phase (or fit a VFD). Boxford make a tidy machine but i never saw that model in the flash. Early Warco was better than the late one here but they aren't half-bad and that one has a lot of goodies with it. Best thing about them is the huge spindle hole.

 

[busastars]

Got a fealing the Warco will go for alot, the Harrison would be nice but is way to big for me. Shame im way to late for your old lathe Pete. How is your new one, is it up and running now?

 

[stormin]

Skip the first one (Boxford) no screw turning facility or power feeds, it'll be a pain and you'll struggle to sell it on.

Looking at that second one (the Mellor). Look how far that rear drive spindle is mounted away from the lathe . I thought you were short of room?
It could possibly be re-mounted closer but it's extra work.

The Harrison will be more than likely 3 phase and you'll either have to find extra money for an inverter or another motor. Looks like it's been used without the gap piece in (less rusty) this can lead to peculiar wear on the bed. But if it's local go and have a look, you'll learn a lot more by seeing lathes. Be surprised if it goes for less than £500 though.

The clark is really just a smaller lathe with lifted centre height. Resulting in lack of stiffness, narrow bed again like the first one. The milling facility on the top is generally acknowledged to be a waste of time as it moves so much.

The Warco looks tidy and cared for. He's done all the necessary mods to top slide and tool post. It's got a norton style gearbox for threading. It'll fetch good money without a doubt.

Not much to say on that last myford other than the motor looks huge!

If it was me I'd have the Harrison, if only because I looked at them when I got my Colchester Student, would've preferred one then but they tended to fetch more money.
If I was short of room I'd go for the Warco.

 

[Pete.]

Got a fealing the Warco will go for alot, the Harrison would be nice but is way to big for me. Shame im way to late for your old lathe Pete. How is your new one, is it up and running now?

Yup all running. Only thing I have left to do is fit a pipe to the coolant pump.

 

[aero]

That first lathe looks like an old Poole Special. My Granfather made a braze repair to a broken casting on one in the war - so it could be used to make machine guns parts again (sorry no photos, only of him and his mates arming a Spitfire for business). That chuck is way too big for it.

Forget any Boxford without a lead screw. Worthless.

Be careful with Myfords as worn headstock bearings are difficult and expensive. Worn beds however are cheap to fix, unless they have been reground before.

Don't be put off by evasive replies. Any old school engineer will stand back in horror at the level of 'enquiries' the 'net generates.

I do.

Phone either confirms or puts a stop to any worries.