Lanoguard, waxoyl etc.

[charlysays]

The problems occur when they apply underseal over rust and flexible areas of a vehicle, as it ages it often cracks and moisture gets under it and you have corroded panels happily rusting away and you cannot see it.
Lorry suspension mounting points are terrible for it.

Yeah shutz is terrible for this if left alone. It lifts off, cracks and doesn't even seal the surface from oxygen. It's good for about 2 years tops in my experience.
Dynax UB goes on almost as thick but doesn't lift in my experience. After 5 years it was still intact and doing its job on one car I used it on.
With waxoyl sprayed over shutz yearly it stays more flexible but I think a thinner wax like dynax s50 applied yearly after a quick cleanup/ pressure washing is the ultimate "better than nothing" life extending procedure. Such work would safeguard a lot of future classics much better than nothing done at all.
Lanoguard looks promising for this too and better for the environment.

 

[qwakers]

clean up with a needle gun, spray rust killer, allow to act, paint any bare metal with https://rust-anode.co.uk/ and cover with https://www.frost.co.uk/dinitrol-4941-black-underbody-coating-rust-preventive-fluid-1l/


pics in no particular order.

 

[theMenace]

I've had great results using Fertan on rusty inner panels before using any underbody products. But really it only works well on taking care of the pitted metal left behind when you've removed all the loose rust, it's no good just painting it on rusting metal and hoping for the best.
It just stops anything under the new paint or underseal "bleeding" through from the old metal.

Dynax S-50 seems well thought of, I've ordered some to take care of the inside of my pickup chassis, so will see how that goes.

 

[steveo3002]

treated myself to some corrolan pure for the daily drivers , just basic touch ins where theres a bit of brown showing on a edge etc

its like a firm wax at normal temps , but warm it up and it softens and will go to a thick oil consistency , ive been warming it and brushing it on , then it firms over enough that it should hold on in the rain etc , pretty happy with it and how it goes on , and should soften up on summer days and re creep

 

[vw1]

Price and where from ?

 

[steveo3002]

CORROLAN PURE UNDERBODY WAX

A grease like consistency in cold temperatures, in summer the consistency is that of a heavy oil. Use in any area where you want maximum protection but need access for regular maintenance. Base can be applied over Fe-123 rust converter or over Corrolan Penetrator when the penetrator has been...

www.rust.co.uk

also on ebay

 

[fizzy]

I'm shortly to be faced with temporarily storing a lathe and a few other machine tools outside when we get a new garage built, they'll be under tarpaulin but I really don't want any rust on machined surfaces.
Asking around, Owatrol was recommended to me, their products are well reviewed and there's quite a range on their website.
Not cheap though but claimed to go a long way.

View attachment 328826

Owatrol Oil | Rust Inhibiter Paint | Owatrol Direct

A powerful rust inhibitor which penetrates through rusted surfaces to isolate sound metal below & a paint conditioner for oil-based paints improving flow.

www.owatroldirect.co.uk

I covered my lathe and milling machine with an aerosol of wire rope lube. I think it was Rocol or CRC. Black gooey stuff. Easy to remove with WD40 or similar and a cloth.
Lasted 18 years between 3 very damp warehouses before I actually installed them
Can't say better than that - not a spot of rust!

32334 | CRC WIRE ROPE LUBE Heavy Duty Lubricant 650 ml / 500 ml Aerosol | RS

uk.rs-online.com

High performance de-watering wire rope lubricant aerosol - WIRE ROPE Spray - ROCOL - ROCOL

High performance de-watering wire rope lubricant aerosol

www.rocol.com

Never had to reapply it or anything.

 

[armalites]

b) sheep don’t rust anyway.

 

[armalites]

I think the big issue with all of these coatings is we are all inclined to think once we've done it the vehicle will last for ever. The reality is it probably needs to be topped up every year or two.

 

[steveo3002]

I think the big issue with all of these coatings is we are all inclined to think once we've done it the vehicle will last for ever. The reality is it probably needs to be topped up every year or two.

too right ...my regime is now to do a wheels off jet wash as soon as the salt has stopped in spring , then creep under it after a good dry spell and touch it in again before the winter

 

[PhillipM]

Lanoguard looks promising for this too and better for the environment.

Debatable, the others, especially the Bilt Hamber, use lanoline as part of the formulation too, it's not really anything new.

 

[steveo3002]

theres many lanolin based products , lanogaurd isnt unique

something that semi melts in the hot weather appeals to me...on my way around tarting the cars up ive found previous wax has gone rock hard and peeled up inside doors etc which probably makes things worse....if it can soften and reflow on a hot day then all the better

 

[Burdekin]

Debatable, the others, especially the Bilt Hamber, use lanoline as part of the formulation too, it's not really anything new.

Didn't know that. I've started using Bilt Hamber Dynax products and have no long term experience but it's fantastic to apply, creepes and covers brilliantly. It has testing to back up claims which Lanoguard didn't last I looked. I also have a big tin of Dinitrol classic which I paint over exposed areas after a coating of Dynax, that's if it hasn't been stripped and stonechipped. I also use Dynax UC over bolts, clips etc where I want rust protection but want it to look clean.

 

[bricol]

theres many lanolin based products , lanogaurd isnt unique

something that semi melts in the hot weather appeals to me...on my way around tarting the cars up ive found previous wax has gone rock hard and peeled up inside doors etc which probably makes things worse....if it can soften and reflow on a hot day then all the better

I ended up a few years ago with a Vauxhall Omega my mate had owned 15 yrs previous - he'd applied copious amounts of Waxoyl back then - in the sun on my driveway, the stuff was still dripping out of the rust free doors, boot lid, sills . . . but unfortunately not the chassis legs where the steering box and idler were mounted . . .

 

[charlysays]

Debatable, the others, especially the Bilt Hamber, use lanoline as part of the formulation too, it's not really anything new.

This is good to know I recently bought 5l of dynax UC and still have some ancient S50 which I reconstitute now and again and had FOMO (fear of missing out) when I was seeing all the sponsored ads for lanoguard on facebook lol.

 

[PhillipM]

BH even use it in some of their waxes - Autobalm for example has lanolin in it to prevent stone chips corroding.

 

[marlinspike]

Must admit I get FOMO with some of these products too. You settle on one thing, then there's something else that claims to be better. This is why this forum is so great. The feedback on products is from real life users and you get all the pros and cons, not just generic curated reviews.

 

[Keithmac]

Just popped on here to see how Lanoguard faired.

Presume I'm better off sticking with Dynax S50?.

I've got 3 cars to do.

 

[steveo3002]

not been around long enough to say has it ? ask in ten years time

i think its a bit over hyped and all the praise it how wonderfull it is when just applied , anything looks great when fresh

 

[GRW]

A lot of the comments here are talking about longevity but I think with any of these products they need to be topped up perhaps yearly or even more depending on use

Yes annual for Lanoguard and Waxoyl of course.
The videos showing water just sheeting off a lanoguard treated vehicle look very impressive I have to say - but I've no experience with the actual product.

I really should add some protection to the underside of the Missus' 2011 Kua Rio (I did clean off, Vactan & then Cold Galv Spray the rear suspension assembly last week on the Rio) & need to have a good look under my 1999 Octavia (which I believe has a galvanised body, but the running gear ain't!) & see if I can't keep both in reasonable fettle.