Joining starter / welding cable ?

[CompoSimmonite]

I intend running a cable from the battery, which is under the bonnet, to the rear on my car. I've found 3m of unused starter / welding cable left over from another project but will probably need to extend that by 1m or a bit more more.
What is the proper way of joining such cable ?
Thanks

 

[Cobbler]

Hi Compo, before you get too far, check its copper cable. I have got some welding leads that are copper coated aluminium.

 

[hotponyshoes]

Butt Crimp Connector

 

[dave h 2]

Extra battery?? Otherwise overkill.
Put the joint inside the car.

 

[brightspark]

one of these and a couple of crimp on lugs https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/posi...sBGGRg_wIyt4FspzdFHGl2M1vQ5FwD_EaAk05EALw_wcB

 

[Robert Weaver]

Don't be tempted to solder as any residual flux corrodes the copper in quick time. Mechanical joint is best.

 

[dave h 2]

yep no plumbers solder

 

[Keithmac]

Buy the correct length of copper cable and go from there .

I use crimp and heat seal connectors, with correct crimping pliers.

 

[zzr1200]

Pardon our interruption...

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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15604616...eQ6U1z1LBhNtq39roFYAFJaks=|tkp:Bk9SR9Cl1KXCZQ

[/URL]

 

[hotponyshoes]

Not much point crimping 2 lugs on and bolting them together..

Pardon our interruption...

 

[Turbo]

Buy one of these cheap hydraulic crimpers.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14645143...lp:2332490&itmmeta=01JR9PF8B6423TKQ7J9K8ENFBE

Add the butt splices above and some decent heat shrink and you're set for action.
Use a jaw size 1 smaller than the splice size for a good crimp.

 

[Bravheart]

If its welder cable is a dinse plug/socket out of the question

 

[hotponyshoes]

3m is probably long enough for a welder lead.
Why not just keep the 3m bit for that and source another 4m length?

 

[CompoSimmonite]

3m is probably long enough for a welder lead.
Why not just keep the 3m bit for that and source another 4m length?

Main reason would be cost - my great grandfather came from Jerusalem (really)

 

[brightspark]

Pardon our interruption...

+

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15604616...eQ6U1z1LBhNtq39roFYAFJaks=|tkp:Bk9SR9Cl1KXCZQ

[/URL]

Not much point crimping 2 lugs on and bolting them together..

Pardon our interruption...

theres every point in doing it when the battery is under the bonnet and you move it . and extend the cable to the back where do you think the charging lead goes to . from the alternator . up to the battery and fuses thats why you use lugs and a conector pillar to bolt the lot together and just extend ONE main lead

 

[hotponyshoes]

theres every point in doing it when the battery is under the bonnet and you move it . and extend the cable to the back where do you think the charging lead goes to . from the alternator . up to the battery and fuses thats why you use lugs and a conector pillar to bolt the lot together and just extend ONE main lead

Maybe I'm not reading it right but I thought he needs a 4m length of cable. He already has a 3m length and he wants to buy 1m more and add it onto the existing 3m to make 4m?

 

[brightspark]

Maybe I'm not reading it right but I thought he needs a 4m length of cable. He already has a 3m length and he wants to buy 1m more and add it onto the existing 3m to make 4m?

your correct just looked and he did so could use a strait through crimped ferrule and heat shrink sleeving to extend it

 

[zzr1200]

theres every point in doing it when the battery is under the bonnet and you move it . and extend the cable to the back where do you think the charging lead goes to . from the alternator . up to the battery and fuses thats why you use lugs and a conector pillar to bolt the lot together and just extend ONE main lead

I've done similar cable modifications when I've installed Anderson style plugs at the back/front/side door of my old service vans for jump starting plant/vehicles...

One run of cable for the +/- cable is the preferred way, but it's not always possible.