In my head that's the wrong way round? If I take off the pipe at the left side of the cylinder (i am thinking do it at the cylinder so I don't make an oily mess in the cab) and turn the wheel right wont I get oil out of the pipe I have disconnected?
- Thread starter reb78
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In my head that's the wrong way round? If I take off the pipe at the left side of the cylinder (i am thinking do it at the cylinder so I don't make an oily mess in the cab) and turn the wheel right wont I get oil out of the pipe I have disconnected?
Rannsachair
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looking at the schematic of the cylinder, it is behind the axle, am assuming the tie rods from the end of the cylinder are connected to the rear of the axle wheel pivot. So if you pressurise the the right port of the cylinder, the cylinder moves to the left and the wheels turn to the right, so yes never thought the above through
. If you disconnect the left cylinder port, steer the valve to the left to test. I must stop replying to posts when in a video conference at work!Ah! I see my confusion. The rods pivot at the rear as you say. Thank goodness someone is paying attention as I had come in thinking they were at the front.looking at the schematic of the cylinder, it is behind the axle, am assuming the tie rods from the end of the cylinder are connected to the rear of the axle wheel pivot. So if you pressurise the the right port of the cylinder, the cylinder moves to the left and the wheels turn to the right, so yes never thought the above through
Arclikeharrypotter
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Surely an easier way would be to swap pipes to said cylinder and if the problem continues in the same direction the it will Indicate that it is the cylinder seals, if it changes direction then the valve is at fault.
I can't drive it like that on the road. I will have an accident as everything will be back to front! It needs to be at road speed over a decent straight distance on flat ground to be easy to notice. I can do what I suggest above static in the shed.
Just spoke to a friend of a friend who used to work for JD. He said just blank both lines from the orbital unit at the cylinder. Then it should lock up both ways if it's not at fault. Should less messy than my idea?!
The fault being one sided - I.e. I always need to turn to the right, makes me think the cylinder seals are less likely as would they leak one way?
The fault being one sided - I.e. I always need to turn to the right, makes me think the cylinder seals are less likely as would they leak one way?
Update. None of my fittings would fit the steering cylinder pipes. So I wasn't able to do it the non-messy way.
As it was, I didn't make too much mess. So pressurised one side of the steering to full lock and completely undid the opposite side. A residual dribble of oil came out but once that had passed, turning to full lock further produced no more oil so I think we can conclude that the steering cylinder seal is not passing oil internally. This was the same on both sides.
Interestingly, while doing the above there was a steady dribble of oil from the non pressurised pipework from the orbital valve - I would say more than just oil running out of the pipework under gravity. This was the same on both sides too.
I think this means my orbital valve is scrap unless the double acting shock valves have a role here as they were the ones that I couldn't reset after the orbital valve rebuild.
As it was, I didn't make too much mess. So pressurised one side of the steering to full lock and completely undid the opposite side. A residual dribble of oil came out but once that had passed, turning to full lock further produced no more oil so I think we can conclude that the steering cylinder seal is not passing oil internally. This was the same on both sides.
Interestingly, while doing the above there was a steady dribble of oil from the non pressurised pipework from the orbital valve - I would say more than just oil running out of the pipework under gravity. This was the same on both sides too.
I think this means my orbital valve is scrap unless the double acting shock valves have a role here as they were the ones that I couldn't reset after the orbital valve rebuild.
Rannsachair
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You are probably correct.
Though you need to bare in mind that a steering cylinder spends most of its time near the central position. So it is possible to have wear or damage near the centre that causes problems. The areas at end of the stroke are unlikely to have wear, so testing on that position is not absolutely conclusive.
It is very unusual for a steering cylinder just to leak one way, so I suspect the steering valve
Ah. Good point.
If it wasn't leaking though and the orbital unit was fine, wouldn't that lock up as expected and i would be unable to turn the steering wheel further at full lock?
Rannsachair
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Aye, that points to the valve at fault too.
Great. At least I think I have pinpointed the problem now.
Issue now is I can't afford/justify a genuine replacement. The tractor does our fields - roll, harrow, use the linkbox a lot to cart stuff around, empty the muck trailer once a month, but it's not an everyday workhorse.
There are a few cheaper options
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305611471817 (duty to pay on this - corresponds with the numbers on the existing unit 125cn 150-0179)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226286228713 (my tractor is listed but the detail of the unit isn't as good as above)
Nick Young had one at 483 plus vat https://www.nytractorparts.co.uk/jo...g-and-brakes/steering-%26-2wd.html?model=2450 but that's starting to get too expensive.
Any thoughts on the Polish or QTP one?
I could try secondhand but there's no guarantee it won't also be knackered.
Issue now is I can't afford/justify a genuine replacement. The tractor does our fields - roll, harrow, use the linkbox a lot to cart stuff around, empty the muck trailer once a month, but it's not an everyday workhorse.
There are a few cheaper options
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305611471817 (duty to pay on this - corresponds with the numbers on the existing unit 125cn 150-0179)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226286228713 (my tractor is listed but the detail of the unit isn't as good as above)
Nick Young had one at 483 plus vat https://www.nytractorparts.co.uk/jo...g-and-brakes/steering-%26-2wd.html?model=2450 but that's starting to get too expensive.
Any thoughts on the Polish or QTP one?
I could try secondhand but there's no guarantee it won't also be knackered.
Rannsachair
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I think I would go for the Polish one as they advertise as made in Europe on: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30561149...AC1fTASWD8UlUBID5WQKz_wzK7YKIxR0aAh4aEALw_wcB made in Europe, coming from a reliable source, has a two-year warranty, proven goods from a certain manufacturer.
I suspect Chinese quality will be variable, the Quality Tractor Parts ones may be sourced from China though easier to return than to Poland.
If I buy direct from their Polish site, Inc postage it comes in at £134.75. Is it coincidence that that total is just under the £135 limit for import duty etc?! I can pay by PayPal so some protection there. Almost seems too cheap!
Worried I will just get the same problem again by that route Ed.
Blobber
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That sounds reasonable for what it is, worth it to get mobile again
Right. I will make that purchase when I get home later.
My current thinking is to run it as is but more or less static to run the log splitter for a few days. This will gwt the hydraulic oil hot and circulating and hopefully trap any more brake crap left in there in the filters or sumps, then drain again (while hot), do a filter change, refill with new oil and fit the ew steering valve. Does that sound like a sensible plan?
My current thinking is to run it as is but more or less static to run the log splitter for a few days. This will gwt the hydraulic oil hot and circulating and hopefully trap any more brake crap left in there in the filters or sumps, then drain again (while hot), do a filter change, refill with new oil and fit the ew steering valve. Does that sound like a sensible plan?
Rannsachair
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Aye, does seem a poor design running brakes in the hydraulic oil.
