Jig Ideas

  1. Benterrier Member

    Messages:
    44
    Location:
    UK Hereford
    Hi Guys looking for advice/ideas to make a jig for a quantity of steel grills. 12mm x 800 rod welded top and bottom to 1" flat. Something to hold it while tacked together. Cheers IMG_20200716_074843_640x480.jpg
     
  2. brightspark

    brightspark Member

    Messages:
    30,770
    Location:
    yarm stockton on tees
    normaly on a steel bench with bits of angles welded on and u just drop all the parts in position and tack them up . you could knock a plywood one up for tacking if u haven't loads to do and bin it when finished just have a bucket of water in case
     
  3. Feet 'n Inches

    Feet 'n Inches Out of the rat-race at last

    Messages:
    293
    Location:
    Devon, England
    If you're looking to do a fair number of grills, then I would go with @brightspark's idea. If it's a one-off then I'd just mark a centreline for where each bar goes, having worked out the right pitching, and tack them in. Even with doing this by eye, it will come out looking pretty accurate. That one-off can be your template for positioning the bits of angle for subsequent grills.
     
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  4. armalites Member

    Messages:
    5,225
    Herefordshire
    I would say a piece of ply with with some a couple of lengths 2x2 screwed to it with grooves routed for the bars would make it easily repeatable, if you clamped the to two pieces together when routing them and made sure they stay in the same orientation then the spacing would be uniform. They could be placed 1/4 and 3/4 down the bars so away from the welding. All you would then need is some pieces to align the outer frame. Laying out would then take seconds.
     
  5. Hitch

    Hitch Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    12,315
    Somerset
    Clamp the flat to a bit of box to keep it straight and square on...
    Tack the 2 end ones in, work out the gaps, cut 2 bits of box and put between each bar as you tack them in.
    Sit the round bars on 6mm thick spacers, to keep them on the centre line of the flat... a bit of steel banding comes in handy for fine adjustments.

    Swap the two bit of spacer around every few bars incase one is shorter than the other.

    Unless you have maybe 10+ it's barely worth jigging... unless it's going to be a repeat job...and how fast you work.
     
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  6. Windy Miller Semi-Professional Potterer!

    Messages:
    2,908
    Location:
    North Kent, UK
    Use ready punched bar for the frame?
     
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  7. Morrisman

    Morrisman Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    2,428
    Location:
    Staffordshire, England
    2 pieces of 1” x 2” timber, clamped together, drilled through where they meet, The diameter of your bars, so you then have two halves to lay your crossbars in.

    Screw them to a piece of plywood.

    Screw another couple of lengths to the board, to make alignment for the end flat bars.

    If you have, like, 200 to make do the above, but using steel.
     
  8. tom2207 Member

    Messages:
    2,034
    Location:
    uk northern ireland
    looks like its going to be a fence , id knock up a jig , even ply , just to tack them up in , most important part is getting the frame square to start with or it will look tragic when its bolted together. so the flat has to be cut accurately ,,
     
  9. Brad93

    Brad93 M J B Engineering

    Messages:
    9,327
    Location:
    Essex
    Nowadays I’d probably plasmacut a jig but I used to do it how Hitch described above.
     
  10. Mick Annick

    Mick Annick Member

    Messages:
    719
    Location:
    Burgundy, France
    I recently made something similar, drilled the bottom rail all the way through and welded the bars on the bottom side, top rail I drilled halfway through then welded the underside - no welds on show, and as long as it it’s clamped up and kept square you shouldn’t have any distortion.

    AFCAA781-93B7-46A4-9F8E-8A7B97DE2405.jpeg
     
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  11. Benterrier Member

    Messages:
    44
    Location:
    UK Hereford
    Thanks guys, certainly some goods ideas to ponder over. Will have to find out how many the guy wants making if its a regular order may be worth spending a bit more on a jig. Will post what I come up with. Cheers all.
     
    mike os and brightspark like this.
  12. DAPPH

    DAPPH as dyslexik as I'm daft

    Messages:
    2,749
    Location:
    Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB

    I used two sheets of construction ply screwed together every foot or so round the edges and PVA wood glued on blocks of bench sawn timber to make my jig for 27 heavy angle & square tube Cross of Lorraine looking posts with 50x 50 x 5 mm cross bars to slide things on to strong shelving for one metre long bays the posts could be lifted out of a welded floor socket that was cast in the seven inch thing concrete floor ... it worked perfectly for both the mounting frames and the posts . Once the glue had cured over night I put in two 200mm wood screws as extra reinforcement in each block as I didn't want anything coming loose if it got knocked .
     
  13. highseas Member

    Messages:
    179
    Location:
    cumbria, nw
    ile try ans get you a picture of what i use tomorrow..

    i make my frame (if ime doing more than 2-3 ile tack 4 bits of angle to the bench as corner jigs) then for the uprights i take a bit of flat bar what ever size ime making the frame out of, and on the same centers and in the middle ile drill a 2 holes the size of what ever bar stock ime using... then cut thru the center of the holes on the band saw and use that as a spacer as it should be bang on for both height and lenth, and i just put a squre to them once every now and then to make sure ime still right.
    and once ive made on (their only a few inches long) i stamp on it what size bar/spacing/flat its to suit and it goes in the drawer with some others.

    i fear this is a case of a picture is worth a thousand words?!
     
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  14. highseas Member

    Messages:
    179
    Location:
    cumbria, nw
    I use thease..perfect spaceing and perfect center just make them as you need them
     
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