As you can see in diagrams fans and also solenoid is driving by mains voltage.On a standard inverter welder the first part is the rectification of the ac to dc. there should be two 24v outputs one for the fan other for the gas valve. As for the 24vdc valve unplug and give a 24vdc or less 20vdc should suffice to hear the valve click. On one image that you post i saw some burn mark near the fast diodes (converting the high frequency ac to dc)
Hi Justin,I have a 19.2 reading from one side of the fuse to the other and no readings from the 3 x PTC, visually they look fine. Sorry for my naivety, but I'm checking the resistance from one side to the other with the multi meter, without any power on, is this correct? The DC Link relay I cannot get any resistance reading from either, using the two pins on the underside of the board.
Are you able to circle the "outmost right connector between yellow and black. I mean the 4pin shell with 3 wires on the other side".
there is a simple way to add pre and pos flow on the external gas valve box.Then he is in struggle with pre and postflow.
Please share your information here.there is a simple way to add pre and pos flow on the external gas valve box.
I fried my 30 year old DMM because I stupidly forgot to disconnect the HF startDid you ever dealt with high voltage ignition?
I do and can only speak for myself that it will kick everything out of business if not doing properly.
I have what looks to be the same welder . My ptc has the same NTC47D-15 Only they have only installed two and jumpered where the middle one is . Is it better to install three as I need to replace one that's damaged anyway.This is from the link i posted yesterday.
So, next step is check diodes.
The glass ones are zener.
So make sure you measure them right.
In the beginning you can check if the relay gets energized.
Not the biggest fun to get there with your probes!
Again!
Dangerous Voltage is hanging around in this area!
View attachment 294670
Thanks I don't know if it is related but It was taking some time to turn on . I am hoping this is the issue .One of them was cracked and upon removal and fell apart. I have ordered three . I guess my main question is it better to have three of them Or does the change in resistance effect the circuit .G'day and welcome to the Forum !
If the track location for one of these 47-Ohm thermistors has been jumpered, it means they must be in series. Seems the designers have decided that the soft-start circuit only needs an initial resistance of 94 Ohms now, instead of 141 Ohms.
However, damage to the soft-start circuit usually means that excessive current is flowing downstream of the capacitor bank, most likely due to short-circuit semiconductors in the inverter power switches.
Well that was a relief I fitted the three new ones and it fires up straight away. Thanks again for the help.The one old one I could test was way out of spec . My guess is the limited voltage supply to the capacitors was causing the delayed start up issue ? . Now I have to find the pinout for the tig torch as it didn't come with one. I ordered one and a connector to suit this machine also another piece for the torch with an amperage adjustment which I am hoping is the 47k vr. .The turn-on time should be fixed, depending only on the timing circuit for the operating coil of the relay whose contacts short-circuit the soft-start thermistors.
The higher resistance of three thermistors in the series chain, i.e. 141 Ohms vs. 94 Ohms, means a lower initial current surge into the empty capacitors, which should be a good idea. Hopefully by the time the relay closes, the capacitors will be pretty full, and they will be by the time you are ready to strike an arc.
The designers must now think that having only two thermistors, drawing a higher current spike from the supply, does not cause a problem.
If the one that cracked was not damaged by a short-circuit in the power transistors but just by normal initial turn-on surges, then fitting three thermistors would hopefully avoid another early failure.