Japanese pull - saws....?

[oldbikedavey]

Got one on order from Tyzacks , thought it worth trying for the thin kerf when splitting a built-up pattern .
Does anyone on here have thoughts and experience in their use ?

 

[cheb]

I like the one I have but I find it more difficult to cut properly square with it than with a normal hand saw. I can do it, it's just I have to concentrate more, possibly just a slight change of technique needed.

 

[Islander71]

I've had a Shark pull saw for some time and really like it. Shame its beginning to loose its edge now, but it used to cut very easily with a thin kerf. I later bought a cheapy one that wasn't much good, so make is important.

 

[KemppiFrog]

Bought a couple from Axminster over the years and a folding one was a present. Rate them very highly, as does another boatbuilding friend. Basicly, the 'Go To' saw for mosr fine jobs.

 

[Cobbler]

I bought a Lidl or Aldi one, totally useless, it jams in the cut. It looks like there is no set on it, still, it was cheap!

 

[KemppiFrog]

I bought a Lidl or Aldi one, totally useless, it jams in the cut. It looks like there is no set on it, still, it was cheap!

I saw those and was tempted..... Less so now!

I bought a double edged one from Brico Depot (B&Q) quite good, but looses it's edge faster than the real ones from Japan.

 

[Cobbler]

I saw those and was tempted..... Less so now!

I bought a double edged one from Brico Depot (B&Q) quite good, but looses it's edge faster than the real ones from Japan.

A friend of mine is married to a Japanese girl, perhaps I ought to get him to bring some back when visiting her family. That would set the airport security system off …..

 

[Keith 66]

I have a selection of them. A Vaughan Bear saw which is a general purpose one, A Dozuki, equivalent to a tenon saw & a flush cut one, plus a very fine small one for tiny work.
Lidls on occasion do them a big double edged one & a smaller one. Neither jammed in the cut but the small one is the better, i have had two for years & it is bloody good, came with two blades & extraordinary good value.
Its a different technique to use them but i love them. I have a fair old collection of fine quality western style saws, Diston philadelpia's, in rip crosscut & tenon plus Tyzacks & spear & Jackson. Since i got the Japanese ones they all live in the drawer & are never used.
Workshop heaven has a good selection of Jap saws.

 

[Ian X]

I bought a big ryoba saw for ripping 18mm plywood a long time ago (was no power for a circular saw on site) and I love it. One side is ripping teeth, the other fairly fine crosscut teeth. The alternative is a Diston rip saw and like most people I use it at a steeper angle than you would a pull saw. Some reckon it's hard to follow a straight line with a pull saw, I disagree, you use the thing at a shallow angle and it plays very nice. The cut upper edge is finer than the lower cut edge given by a European hand saw with less splintering at the cut edge.
If you can control the thin blade of a kugihiki saw it might be what you need, there is no set and yes the blade is thin, you need to be careful with it lest you hear the dreaded "DOOOING" from the blade.

 

[frank horton]

def good for fine work.....guess they make a pull style ripsaw......

but for framing I use a throw away western style double cut.....
then of course if I'm doing a load of cuts out comes 1 of the powered miter saws on a wheeled stand....

 

[oldbikedavey]

We'll see soon enough, I suppose.
Many comparison cuts will be made before I trust the thing to split a built - up pattern accurately....
Which also applies to myself as well.....

 

[DAPPH]

I bought a Lidl or Aldi one, totally useless, it jams in the cut. It looks like there is no set on it, still, it was cheap!

The set & sharpness is ground into the teeth the whole blade is flat & parallel along its length .

 

[Cobbler]

The set & sharpness is ground into the teeth the whole blade is flat & parallel along its length .

Still jams though, never managed to cut anything with it.

 

[DAPPH]

We'll see soon enough, I suppose.
Many comparison cuts will be made before I trust the thing to split a built - up pattern accurately....
Which also applies to myself as well.....

The angle you pull the saw & the way you are standing make a big difference . Stand so you are pulling across your body about 45 degree to the central line of the wood being cut .
This is a very natural movement and you have a lot of control & strength in the pull and it's easier to keep the blade vertical .......very much different to using a back saw aka tenon saw

 

[8ob]

Its a bit like cutting thin tube with a hacksaw ( remember those things) the blades were always put in with the teeth backwards to stop the grabbing.

Bob

 

[Ali]

I've got a 'Silky' folding pull saw in my general purpose kit and the speed, accuracy, and surface finish are amazing. I dare say the finish is as good as my Bosch mitre saw with a fresh blade and definitely quicker with set up time.

Went through a few cheapies before buying this nicer one. Don't put any pressure into the cut, just pull - the technique takes a bit of getting used to.

 

[cocker]

I've got a couple of them pull saws but I prefer to use traditional back saws and nice old disstons .
I think most of my problems with the pull saws is muscle memory , then I get frustrated and it gets worse - a week or so later I'll find the offender in a corner !
They're alright for resawing once I've established a kerf .

 

[TEO]

Proper Japanese pull saws are by my reckoning far the best quality for the money. As mentioned above Workshop Heaven are a good place to look.
It's harder for those of us brought up on traditional western panel saws & brass back tenon saws to adjust than it is for someone with no experience.
A good traditional dovetail or tenon saw will will be at least £80 whereas a very good quality Japanese saw will give you a lovely cut, possibly finer for half that price.
It takes practice to cut well with either style & everyone will have their own preferences but whatever you choose, slow everything down & when you think you're going slow try & go even slower... At least until you've put in the hrs & really cracked it.... The quality of the cut will improve and if you keep pausing then slight drift can be corrected before it goes too far. Careful marking out with a good quality knife will also completely change the accuracy of the finished cut.
Personally I have mainly trad Western saws but that's only because I had them before I was introduced to Japanese saws.

 

[TEO]

The set & sharpness is ground into the teeth the whole blade is flat & parallel along its length .

These are called flush cut saws, there's no kerf so that you can trim plugs flush without damaging the surrounding face, they're very flexible do that you can put finger pressure on the blade beside the plug & hold the handle clear of the surface.
Be careful of trimming plugs too close to edges as the flex in the blade means that it will want to flex rod there edge & cut that too.
I've not tried the Lidl/Aldi ones but I've had several of the unwin ones, v cheap & do the job well, at a push there'll cut a tendon or a dovetail when that's all you've got.

 

[TEO]

I bought a Lidl or Aldi one, totally useless, it jams in the cut. It looks like there is no set on it, still, it was cheap!

See above