I'VE SEEN THE LIGHT !! actually too much...

[Easyrider]

Hi guys
Played around with some stainless today ..

The Spec

1mm SS

Tec Arc 206i

30 amps little pre/post gas
Gas 10LPM
Tip is pointed and aprox 5mm proud of the shroud. (2.4mm)
good penetration but as i'm carressing the puddle I get a flash of light which is not being filtered by my mask ( auto type)
I get temporarily blinded and have to focus again where the pool is..
Have tried cleaning the tip, plate and even clipping the end of the SS rod too ... .
Weld speed is obviously slow and I even dropped to 25amps with no filler just to see how that looked.

The Mask is set to the following

LHS scale of 9-13 its set on 11
RHS scale L-H set on L

Really not sure what should be where so some advise on the mask would be helpful too (paid about £40 quid for the mask if that helps clarifying whether it should be living on my head or in the Bin!!! (ONLY GOT 1 SET OF PEEPERS)

Finally ... dipping the rod seemed to contaminate the pool even clipped the end off but still put in more ****e than seemed acceptable

 

[simon718]

the L-H setting is for the sensetivity of the mask, try turning that up a bit mate, should stop it un-reacting. what make is the mask?

also, how much have you used the mask? they often flicker when the batteries are dying

 

[astro_al]

Sounds like the sensor on the mask got temporarily covered by your hand or the ceramic shroud? I used to have a cheapo mask that switched off when that happened. It didn't react to 'general welding light' but needed a constant line of sight to the arc, and if filler rod or anything got in between, you got flashed.

I binned it in the end - one set of peepers as you say!

Al.

 

[HasBean]

Isn't it the case that not all masks are suitable for TIG?

My SIP mask states that it's only good for Tig over 50A (I've tried it at about 30A and it flickers a lot when trying to weld in my garage) and I can't adjust it out. Never a problem with Mig or Arc though.

 

[Paul.]

Some masks, and not just the cheap ones, don't work well at low amps on non pulsed DC TIG, you could try setting the sensitivity to high, and delay setting if it has one to long, and try to position yourself so that both of the sensors can see the arc, lowering the amps will make it worse, what make of helmet is it

 

[hotrodder]

Regarding your eyes... the UV/IR protection in auto lenses is passive i.e. completely seperate from the shade of the lens so a 'flash' through the lens is more akin to being temporaily blinded by a camera flash than a true arc flash. Obviously a flickering mask is usless but you can try Pauls advice without fear of getting arc eye. If your mask responds to visible light ensuring the work is very well lit can make a difference too

Regarding the contaminated weld... stainless is very reactive at high temps, if you're penetrating through to the back of the piece without a purge (shielding the back with argon) it'll always be dirty and contaminated. Pulling the filler out of the gas shield will have a similar effect- the hot end (that was just molten) oxidises and contaminates the puddle with the next dip

 

[Easyrider]

Ok ... had a look and there is no markings or name ... from the front it looks to be solar powered or am i being dim as that is in fact the sensor panel ??
Have a look at the photos if i need a new one then i'll upgrade and any advice would be a start ......

 

[Paul.]

The top panel is the solar cell, the sensors are below at each side,
the inside picture is too small to see the controls.
I've just bought one of these Parweld XR915H, It seems to be fine at low amps, has a grinding feature, sensitivity, and delay settings.

 

[Easyrider]

Hmmmm this is supposed to be a 5 mp camera but NEVER seems to catch the detail close up...............forget trying to photograph a weld

 

[zardoz]

Has your camera got a picture/symbol of a flower as one of its settings ? If so then use this, as it is the 'macro' settting for closeup work.