Parm
Respect The Sound System
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I’ve got a proper hot block vaporiser used to dissolved membrane filters when doing asbestos works
its a horrible horrible thing
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its a horrible horrible thing
ajlelectronics
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I am wondering if it might make my module cases for me? Current ones are three weeks delivery at about £4 each. I then take up to an hour to (imprecisely) cut the apertures. It doesn't have to be aluminium.
This one of my less neat ones...
This one of my less neat ones...
PhillipM
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Easy, depending on the material you need, I've printed ECU cases a few times, just don't expect it to be a fast process.
Most brands are OK. Best option is to check out reviews, as they'll generally give a reasonable insight in to any to avoid.
Personally, I prefer Sunlu filament via Amazon, but have also used Real Filament.
Worst roll I ever had was some Giantarm as it was the only roll I could find in the colour I was looking for. It was horrendous stuff. Inconsistent extrusion, and it started randomly snapping. I bought it via Amazon, so just returned it.
pawsnizzy
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Blobber
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You cant be far from me, bring it over and I will look after it for you!I've noted, whilst looking at some Youtube vids, (yes, I know. You're supposed to research things *before* buying them), that I may have under-estimated the size of it a tad. Chuff knows where I'm going to put it.
One thing not really discussed, is what material to buy.
For anything generic where I'm not really bothered too much about strength, I use PLA+. Still PLA, but is generally a bit better quality, and can withstand slightly higher temps before losing strength. It does require slightly higher printing temp than standard PLA, but nothing of any significance. It is the ideal material for beginning with.
Next up the scale is PETG. Not much harder to print with, needs higher bed/print temps, but it can be bad for stringing. It also gets affected by moisture, so it really needs dried out if not used for a while. I have an eSun filament drier for this purpose, but it only works with the smaller plastic rolls, not the larger cardboard rolls (aka Real Filament). The Sunlu filament drier is bigger and can handle the cardboard rolls, but doesn't have an integrated scale (handy for knowing once a roll has dried, as it stops losing weight).
Beyond that, you're into the more specialist materials, which have various benefits/problems.
For anything generic where I'm not really bothered too much about strength, I use PLA+. Still PLA, but is generally a bit better quality, and can withstand slightly higher temps before losing strength. It does require slightly higher printing temp than standard PLA, but nothing of any significance. It is the ideal material for beginning with.
Next up the scale is PETG. Not much harder to print with, needs higher bed/print temps, but it can be bad for stringing. It also gets affected by moisture, so it really needs dried out if not used for a while. I have an eSun filament drier for this purpose, but it only works with the smaller plastic rolls, not the larger cardboard rolls (aka Real Filament). The Sunlu filament drier is bigger and can handle the cardboard rolls, but doesn't have an integrated scale (handy for knowing once a roll has dried, as it stops losing weight).
Beyond that, you're into the more specialist materials, which have various benefits/problems.
MattF
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That's one topic I had been intending to enquire upon.
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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It's my "go-to" site.
PhillipM
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There's a big difference if you want anything with good tolerances or structural. Not so much of an issue for decorative stuff.
MattF
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PhillipM
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me being me, some glow in the dark stuff,
Careful with that stuff, it's basically sandpaper as filament - it will eat nozzles quickly, usually a couple of nozzles per kilo.
PhillipM
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C'mon. More info. Leaving us dangling there.
It's just most places that advertise filament don't come anywhere near the tolerances they claim, and if your filament varies by half a tenth up and down or more, it has a huge effect on part strength because the area change is the square of the difference.
I've had a lot of trouble with cheaper filaments like that, even from supposedly reputable UK makers, etc.
Real filament on Amazon tends to be okay at the cheap end though, as someone else recommended, their stuff didn't print as well as the Rigid or Colorfabb stuff I used to use mainly, but it was consistent, at least.
MattF
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Are nozzles universal, or do you need ones specific for your printer? Is it worthwhile ordering some spares as a matter of course?
PhillipM
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There's a few different fittings on some printers but the vast majority are clones of e3d's nozzles. Yes, get some spares, you'll probably clog a few starting out.
