I can let you have a laptop Power supply that would do that job nicely.No - unless your going to bother putting in another psu to overcome the eratic arc - but that’s my thought on it lol
Don't bother....this was my first welder and it was bloomin awful.Is this worth restoring,
Not heavy enough, for anything less than a small dingy.Sip make great door wedges of boat anchors
Use a dozenNot heavy enough, for anything less than a small dingy.
I was given a Migmate 130 last summer and researched the machine finding all the popular mods.Is this worth restoring, I know the electrical side works but it needs refurbishing maybe a new torch and upgraded motor.
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I've got a pile of them here, what should I look for?I can let you have a laptop Power supply that would do that job nicely.
Can you link me to this PWM controller ?I was given a Migmate 130 last summer and researched the machine finding all the popular mods.
I’ve done the recommended upgrades to my Migmate, probably the same vintage as yours. What I did was to take the SIP circuit board out identifying the mains input to the main transformer, the connection to the wire feed motor. I fitted a 24V 6.5A power supply unit in the opposite side to the main rectifier, I needed to turn the main transformer through 90 degrees to fit it in.
I bought a PWM motor controller from eBay with a digital display of duty cycle, ok not wire speed, but it allows me to get back to a given set point reliably. I used a 20A contact rated relay with a 24 V DC coil to switch the supply for the main welding current which also supplies the gas valve off the secondary of that transformer.
The motor controller is powered from the 24 V PSU directly and the controller out put goes to the normally open contacts of a 2 pole change-over relay the wiper (moving contact) goes to the wire feed motor the normally closed contacts are shorted to each other. [Some one suggested this to give motor braking at high wire speeds when you lift the trigger.]. The coils of both relays are wired to the 24V PSU via the trigger switch on the torch.
I’d added the cross brace to the wire feed rollers and I’d noticed that the torch lead was fixed to the plastic frame of the wire feed unit which distorted when the lead was moved. Also owing to a euromig torch being half the price of a fixed connection one for the Migmate I’ve put a euromig socket on the unit fixed to the front panel to eliminate the flexing of the wire feed. Added advantage of making the wiring of the trigger easier. If you want any more details please ask. A friend who’s a coded welder said of the resulting machine that for occasional use in a home garage for light work it was quite satisfactory.
I could but it might make you jump about a bit and your hair stand on end!Can you link me to this PWM controller ?
Dunno! There’s a long thread somewhere on here that details what the output voltage needs to be.I've got a pile of them here, what should I look for?
The wire Feed motor wants about 24V so something close to that. I happened to have a bigger. PSU kicking around and just used that.Dunno! There’s a long thread somewhere on here that details what the output voltage needs to be.
I remember I sent somebody a heavy duty Dell one a free years back, but not sure I ever had any feedback if it worked or not.
I don’t know how far you are from MK but if you wanted to come and have a look and try it I could have some free time next week, PM if interested.Can you link me to this PWM controller ?
This is the one I used:-Can you link me to this PWM controller ?