Is this Jacobs No 34 chuck arbor removable?

[500e]

As you had to weld arbor to adapter, make a thick wall tube spacer from back of chuck to adapter removal cut out, then you have grease pressure and then beat a wedge in against spacer .removal slot

 

[6ply]

As you had to weld arbor to adapter, make a thick wall tube spacer from back of chuck to adapter removal cut out, then you have grease pressure and then beat a wedge in against spacer .removal slot

That's another good suggestion, thanks.

 

[500e]

At least it wont damage the chuck, + a bit of heat

 

[Rrobson]

Cut it off and either drill it out or weld a tab onto the end to get wedges or similar under. A bit of heat into the chuck may help too

 

[6ply]

Cut it off and either drill it out or weld a tab onto the end to get wedges or similar under. A bit of heat into the chuck may help too

It had heat when welded. I guess some more heat could be tried. Anyway, I'm onto plan C in a moment...

 

[6ply]

Plan C

 

[6ply]

Plan C failed.

Plan D (get it hot, again) failed.

Plan E next...

 

[brightspark]

plan e get another one

 

[6ply]

plan e get another one

I've started, so I'll finish!

 

[Turbo]

I had one of those with a bent arbour. I tried all of what you did to remove it bar the grease gun but all failed.

I ended up cutting off the arbour close to the chuck and drilled most of the remains of the tang from the chuck using a lathe.
Even then it took a large hammer and punch from the chuck side to drive the remains of the tang out.

I'm guessing you are trying to save the arbour but new ones are cheap, a lot cheaper than a new chuck if you ruin that one from too much heat!

 

[6ply]

 

[6ply]

I had one of those with a bent arbour. I tried all of what you did to remove it bar the grease gun but all failed.

I ended up cutting off the arbour close to the chuck and drilled the remains of the tang from the chuck using a lathe.
Even then it took a large hammer and punch from the chuck side to drive the remains of the tang out.

I'm guessing you are trying to save the arbour but new ones are cheap, a lot cheaper than a new chuck if you ruin that one from too much heat!

It's out. Hooray!!!!

No, I wasn't trying to save the arbour. Just as well as I've given it a serious beating today.

 

[6ply]

Just for reference, it was drilled 15.75 and slipped out during drilling. No need to bore out.

 

[Agroshield]

Are they breeding in that drawer in the background?

Now you are in this far, dismantle the chuck, clean and service it. Instructions are in the Jacobs catalogue from vintagemachinery above or there is an OxTools video showing how to do it.

It amazes me when I see drill press restorations on GT that they only ever clean the outside of the chuck. It is like restoring a vintage Ferrari and leaving the 1960s cross plies on it.

 

[6ply]

@Agroshield thanks for a pointer to the manual.

Jacobs Manufacturing Co. - Publication Reprints - Jacobs Chucks Industrial Products Catalog | VintageMachinery.org

 

[Smouser]

I also have a Jacobs chuck that looks similar to yours.

I might try to do the same as you did.

I will try plan A and then straight to plan E

 

[Smouser]

View attachment 473870

What happened to your donkey saw?

I am pretty sure you had a Qualters and Smith saw.

Have you replaced it with a little bandsaw?

Or am I going senile?

 

[Smouser]

Found the chuck I was thinking of.

Somebody really did a number on this one.

 

[6ply]

What happened to your donkey saw?

I am pretty sure you had a Qualters and Smith saw.

Have you replaced it with a little bandsaw?

Or am I going senile?

Still got the Q&S 6H, but I find the bandsaw good for small jobs like this.

You're not going senile...

 

[6ply]

Found the chuck I was thinking of.

Somebody really did a number on this one.

View attachment 473887

View attachment 473888

That's "nice"