- Thread starter 6ply
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Smouser
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- 1,140
- Location
- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
Good work.
After your chuck postings I also worked on a Jacobs chuck today.
I didn't bother with that welded one but there was another Jacobs no 36 chuck with a knackered MT3 arbor.
First job was to get the arbor off. Made some wedges as I don't have a set that fits.
Cutting the taper for the soon to be wedges on the mill.
Then didn't take any further photos
Long story short, the wedges did not work
It can be attributed to the following:
1. That arbor was STUCK
2. I did not harden the wedges
3. I cut the slots too long in the wedges, it allowed the two legs of the wedges to 'open up' and slip over the detent in the arbor when trying to get the chuck off.
Lessons learnt.
If I need to make another set, I am sure I will do much better.
I got the arbor off by using a punch inserted into the chuck and hitting it out.
The chuck itself was actually operating surprisingly smoothly, as it was pretty beat up. I was even more surprised that it operated so smoothly once I opened it up, it was full of rust, grease and grime.
I don't have fancy presses to open chucks, I had to resort to balancing the chuck on bench vice jaws and then using a plastic hammer to split it apart.
I cleaned it all, regreased the jaws and re assembled.
The chuck still had loads of hammer or tool marks on it so I put it in the lathe and cleaned up the faces a bit. Using the compound to clean the taper edges (at the rear and the front of the chuck).
Came out pretty well.
I realise all the nonsense I typed is useless without photos...
I will try and get a photo of the finished chuck as I didn't take any before or during
After your chuck postings I also worked on a Jacobs chuck today.
I didn't bother with that welded one but there was another Jacobs no 36 chuck with a knackered MT3 arbor.
First job was to get the arbor off. Made some wedges as I don't have a set that fits.
Cutting the taper for the soon to be wedges on the mill.
Then didn't take any further photos
Long story short, the wedges did not work
It can be attributed to the following:
1. That arbor was STUCK
2. I did not harden the wedges
3. I cut the slots too long in the wedges, it allowed the two legs of the wedges to 'open up' and slip over the detent in the arbor when trying to get the chuck off.
Lessons learnt.
If I need to make another set, I am sure I will do much better.
I got the arbor off by using a punch inserted into the chuck and hitting it out.
The chuck itself was actually operating surprisingly smoothly, as it was pretty beat up. I was even more surprised that it operated so smoothly once I opened it up, it was full of rust, grease and grime.
I don't have fancy presses to open chucks, I had to resort to balancing the chuck on bench vice jaws and then using a plastic hammer to split it apart.
I cleaned it all, regreased the jaws and re assembled.
The chuck still had loads of hammer or tool marks on it so I put it in the lathe and cleaned up the faces a bit. Using the compound to clean the taper edges (at the rear and the front of the chuck).
Came out pretty well.
I realise all the nonsense I typed is useless without photos...
I will try and get a photo of the finished chuck as I didn't take any before or during
Smouser
Member
- Messages
- 1,140
- Location
- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
I went to get photos.
The old arbor. I am not even sure how people get it into this state.
The chuck did come from a farm if I remember correctly.
The too long slotted wedges.
They might still work on a chuck where the arbor is not as stuck as this one was.
The chuck after I cleaned it up in the lathe.
One part was damaged to deeply to remove all the damage.
Overall, it turned out pretty well.
Visually, it is a massive improvement because the chuck was so dented battered and bruised before that it looked like they used it as a hammer.
It can now go back in the drawer and live with its mates.
The old arbor. I am not even sure how people get it into this state.
The chuck did come from a farm if I remember correctly.
The too long slotted wedges.
They might still work on a chuck where the arbor is not as stuck as this one was.
The chuck after I cleaned it up in the lathe.
One part was damaged to deeply to remove all the damage.
Overall, it turned out pretty well.
Visually, it is a massive improvement because the chuck was so dented battered and bruised before that it looked like they used it as a hammer.
It can now go back in the drawer and live with its mates.
Agroshield
Member
- Messages
- 5,956
One tip with reassembly: use the chuck key as a gauge to determine how far on to press the sleeve. If the mesh of the key is too tight, it needs a little more; if the mesh of the key is too loose it needs a little less.
This is also the way you solve the problem with a chuck where the key slips (providing the key itself is in good condition).
----
With the welded on arbor, it would be possible to skim 0.5mm-1mm off the back of the chuck, which would break the bond of the weld and then the arbor can be removed as if it had never been welded.
Attached is a drawing of wedge dimensions, copied from some purchased a long time ago. A piece of 4mm gauge plate would be a good starting point.
Smouser
Member
- Messages
- 1,140
- Location
- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
Great info, thank you!
Have you got a pongy pencil?I don't have no stinking graphite powder.
Oil and line across the chest it is
