Designing the joint will want a bit of thought. Maybe that's the next bit for us all to muse over
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daedalusminos
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Be wary of filament printing, I know polyurethane sticks to PETG like sh1t to a blanket even with mould release agents.
Probably as much to do with later lines than chemical bond.
I use resin prints for my moulds
Dozzer
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SLA would be nicer, but dont have. Wouldn't use bare FDM for moulding, probably best to cover with very fine car body filler, smooth then spray/cover with epoxy resin, lot of time its the tiny layer lines that make things stick.
Making simple male and female cavities, then using a 70 - 80 shore room temp silicon rubber RTV maybe best option, we used to make moulds for fingers on the pick & place systems on assembly lines, you can buy 1 or 5ltrs of RTV and dye it what ever colour you want, we used to make them bright orange so you could see if they had pinged off.
Matchless
I started with nothing, still have most of it left
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4", 8" a fair bit but will be limited by moving the bump stops 15-20 degrees at present, maybe, there is a 1/2" offset ish, shown in the most recent pictures,
Matchless
I started with nothing, still have most of it left
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The joint as original has a flap sewn to one side of the joint, flapping on the other until bolted together, I thought for ease of manufacture just cut the gaiter and then stick / glue a strip of suitable material to one half and bolt as per original, would not be any benefit in trying to mould it as part of the gaiter,
