hyd clutch thats non ajustable- any reason why i cant do this

[Pid]

Have you tried
www.golfgtifourm.co.uk

Loads of helpfull mk2 golf Jedi's on there

They've helped me a fair bit

 

[keithski122]

Don't know if your golf is the same but some have an odd type of clutch.They use a huge (4inch?) alignment tool and if I remember rightly a large disc that the cylinder presses against.I have come across a fault years ago where this disc wears, possibly causing a similar fault.I might be wrong about some of this as it was about 18 years ago I did this.

 

[anto44]

When the clutch isnt pressed is the pedal sitting higher or lower than it's ment to? it should be almost exactly level with the brake pedal

 

[normspanners]

on't know if your golf is the same but some have an odd type of clutch.They use a huge (4inch?) alignment tool and if I remember rightly a large disc that the cylinder presses against.I have come across a fault years ago where this disc wears, possibly causing a similar fault.I might be wrong about some of this as it was about 18 years ago I did this.

That is very early golf they are similar to a m/cycle with a long through rod, through the gear box shaft but that style of golf clutch are cable operated.

 

[the snooper]

personally I don't think its worth cutting or adding anything, something is failing and needs replacing, if 1st gear is hard to select from standing still (not sure what all your symptoms are) then the pressure plate springs are failing as it wont be fully disengaging

 

[dannyp]

MK2 golf G60 gti

transmition wise they are bit diffrent to the other GTi's as they use the 02A gearbox cabel change gearbox with hydralic clutch operation.

generaly they are really easy to bleed, you can just undo the bleed nippel and they bleed under gravity. as for manual clutch adjustment with hydralic there is none, it is fully self when the clutch is released the pressure plate pushes the slave back to it's resting point. the master also returns to it's rest point. if you put a stop on the pedal to stop it returning fully home it'll kill the release bearing and also stop the master cylinder drawing more fluid from the resovor.

if the clutch bite is low, the clutch is good, once the bite starts comeing up the clutch is on it's way out.

if it's really bothering you it would be possible to change the bite point by swaping the master cyinder out for one with a larger bore

 

[Pete.]

Tell your wife you want one platform shoe for Christmas

 

[normspanners]

if you put a stop on the pedal to stop it returning fully home

Why would you put a stop, to do that?

 

[steveo3002]

When the clutch isnt pressed is the pedal sitting higher or lower than it's ment to? it should be almost exactly level with the brake pedal

its level ...i still need to look over the car sinse starting this thread i recall its on a return spring thingy that makes it stop

 

[dannyp]

Why would you put a stop to do that?

seen it done before, it poped in my mind for some reason, typed it out and didn't deliete it. my reply was a long time in the writeing, as i meant to go outside and look to see what master cyl i was running on my syncro

 

[Wallace]

A couple of things you can check, see if you are getting full stroke on the master cylinder by measuring the pedal movement with and without the master cylinder clevis pin fitted. The pedal should lift higher and go down further with the clevis disconnected. Check for any flex in the bulkhead when the pedal is depressed and the flexible hydraulic hose is not expanding under pressure. As you have a new master & slave cylinders the next likely culprit as mentioned before is the clevis arm as in this pic off the net. You might be able to inspect the arm with a camera by taking the starter motor off.