How to remove pulley ..

[roblane65]

I'll try not to make this to long winded but I got another compressor and giving it a tidy up , with the cage of I've noticed the pulleys ( motor to pump ) aren't quite in line and I'd like to sort it out . Now the motor is a retro fit and a bit of engineering has gone on to fit the pulley to the motor


so forgive my termination but have they made a keyed sleeve for the motor shaft then bored out a pulley to suit held in place with the grub screws ( heated and then pushed over the sleeve ) . So do I remove the grub screws heat the pulley and use a puller .
the reason being the plenty of scope for alignment of the motor ( for aft and in and out ) but they've fitted a double V pulley to the motor

so if I move the motor back to where it needs to be the rear of the pulley will foul the cage .

now the rear of the pulley is recessed so do I resort to butchery leave the pulley in place use a slitting disc and cut the rearmost rim of the pulley off ! thoughts please . just don't want it looking like it's been mullered by a moron

 

[Ruffian]

Taperlock pulley.

Remove both Allen key grub screws.
Use one in the 3rd hole which should part the outer pulley from the taperlock. (May need a little shock with hammer when under tension)

Then should be able to remove centre then pulley.

 

[gaz1]

id cut the cage off then level the pulley and motor so its innline with each other

 

[maroon]

Get a smaller belt.

 

[roblane65]

Taperlock pulley.

Remove both Allen key grub screws.
Use one in the 3rd hole which should part the outer pulley from the taperlock. (May need a little shock with hammer when under tension)

Then should be able to remove centre then pulley.

It could all go horribly wrong in my hands

id cut the cage off then level the pulley and motor so its innline with each other

But I don't won't to cut / bodge the cage , I can remove it if needs be by undoing 2 bolts .

 

[roblane65]

Get a smaller belt.

getting a smaller belt isn't going to alter the line of pully's is it . Btw I have ordered a smaller belt so the motor isn't on the limit of it's adjustment

 

[gaz1]

But I don't won't to cut / bodge the cage , I can remove it if needs be by undoing 2 bolts .

so if I move the motor back to where it needs to be the rear of the pulley will foul the cage .
now the rear of the pulley is recessed so do I resort to butchery leave the pulley in place use a slitting disc and cut the rearmost rim of the pulley off ! thoughts please . just don't

and your bodging is going to do that with the pulley as you need to move the motor backwards to line up the pulleys just cut the cage off and reweld back again with straps if you want safety

so remove the cage

 

[Ruffian]

It could all go horribly wrong in my hands

But I don't won't to cut / bodge the cage , I can remove it if needs be by undoing 2 bolts .

Easy enough

 

[roblane65]

and your bodging is going to do that with the pulley as you need to move the motor backwards to line up the pulleys just cut the cage off and reweld back again with straps if you want safety

so remove the cage

To have the motor where it needs to be the rear of pulley would have to be sticking out of the cage , hence wanting to reduce the width of pulley . the cage can stay factory without any messing to get it on or off and ill have all the adjustment I need for the motor

 

[Kram]

Its an 1108 taperlock for a 24mm shaft. You could get a single V pulley to fit, or even a poly V pulley which are said to be better. If it slips with a single V, you could go up a size. Thats assuming the pump pulley is also a taperlock and easily replaced. They are not too expensive.

The rear V pulley looks painted and unworn, so could chuck it up in lathe and part it off.

 

[bricol]

To have the motor where it needs to be the rear of pulley would have to be sticking out of the cage , hence wanting to reduce the width of pulley . the cage can stay factory without any messing to get it on or off and ill have all the adjustment I need for the motor

As you say, just cut, part, remove the rear section - as long as the hub, boss, centre bit doesn't then become the limiting factor.

The taper lock will allow you to position it right where you want it - they do tend to move a touch as you tighten, so you might need a few goes to get it tight where you want it.

I didn't watch the video posted earlier, but Fenner have written instructions on their site:

https://www.fpt.com.sg/server/Public/1%20Fenner%20Power%20Transmission%20Resources/3%20Fenner%20Installation%20Guides/InstallationGuide_-_Taper_Lock_Bush.pdf?view=1

Dead simple and effective method of locking things to shafts - don't always need the keyway either.


As a bodge artiste, I removed the rear section of of pulley on a power steering pump that allowed another belt to drive the unused air-con pump - with the rear section on, I couldn't get it out of the engine bay as there wasn't enough clearance, to get to the alternator tensioner mechansim under it . . . engine idling, hacksaw blade positioned . . . of course I then had to cut the ring I just cut off pulley into two to get it off the shaft . . . 18 yrs later, the rest of the pulley is doing well

 

[cheb]

I'd be cutting the cage, mesh being cheaper and easier to get than pulleys.

 

[Ruffian]

He doesn't say how much it needs moving.

Could just slide the pulley out, redo the taperlock and the inner v may line up with the pulley 5mm further out.

 

[bricol]

He doesn't say how much it needs moving.

Could just slide the pulley out, redo the taperlock and the inner v may line up with the pulley 5mm further out.

Could be.

Although I think in the spirit of this place of massively over-complicating the simplest solution, a carefully machined, plated/galvanised/powder coated/epoxy coated bracket with adjustability in all directions, carrying many rollers running on ceramic bearings, to guide the belt across/back to engage with the existing pulleys ? In-fact with enough pulleys, he could carry on using the existing over-long belt too

 

[Bullet2012]

Could be.

Although I think in the spirit of this place of massively over-complicating the simplest solution, a carefully machined, plated/galvanised/powder coated/epoxy coated bracket with adjustability in all directions, carrying many rollers running on ceramic bearings, to guide the belt across/back to engage with the existing pulleys ? In-fact with enough pulleys, he could carry on using the existing over-long belt too

A strong possibility as no welding is involved

 

[cheb]

Using specially made pulleys made on a lathe bought solely to do this job.

 

[Bullet2012]

Using specially made pulleys made on a lathe bought solely to do this job.

And a mill, forge, selection of vices etc etc

 

[roblane65]

And a mill, forge, selection of vices etc etc

come on now ! your going way over the top now , Youv'e all got to remember I don't have a lathe !
I could get some carbon rods and airarc the bac of the pulley off , I do have a welder .

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Youv'e all got to remember I don't have a lathe !

The time is right, then.......

 

[roblane65]

It's a " NO " from me at present , been discussed many times