how to remove old anaerobic sealant

[MoreWellie]

I am rebuilding a K series engine and struggling to remove the brown staining on the flanges which I presume is the old anaerobic sealant from when the engine was assembled

so far I have tried

wd40, white spirit, meths, cellulose thinners, polycell paint stripper

There is a fair amount of clean metal around the stains but I have been trying to get it back to as new which may be a bit optimistic for a 17 year old engine

I did have a google and found references to zip paint remover which is why I tried the polycell as I had that on the shelf

any further suggestions? do I need to totally remove all stains? This is what I am talking about

 

[grim_d]

Edit - for anyone that may stumble across this thread, don't use scotchbrite - see link below!

I wouldn't worry too much about small stains. Assuming you will be resealing with RTV or polyurethane sealant it won't matter as long as it's clean.

 

[MoreWellie]

Planning on more anaerobic and have bought some loctite 518 to do the job

I haven't tried scothbrite so that gives me something to try thank you

 

[MoreWellie]

oops, or maybe I won't use scotchbrite

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=563163

 

[Freddy0309]

I've had some success using wd40 and a razor scraper

 

[Kayos]

I used a razor blade when I did mine, got most of it off and 5k later it's fine

 

[bricol]

Loctite SF 7000 Gasket remover - you will wonder why you ever bothered with anything else. Spray on, leave for the recommended time, remove with plastic scraper, rag, paper towel. Perfect and easy job on the alloy bits of the GM V6 engine fitted to my Alfa that's been designed to eat all it;s three timing chains, guides, tensioners etc at regular intervals.

 

[grim_d]

A very interesting thread in the link! Edited my post to avoid anyone trying it.

I've never actually had to use scotchbrite on a mating face but I certianly wont now! As above also. I just scrape it off and make sure its clean, I generally wouldn't worry about a few stains.

I did not realise scotchbrite were embedded with aluminium oxide.

 

[langy]

Scotchbrite is an abrasive, I would of thought it obvious ?

 

[grim_d]

I thought it was just a resin infused synthetic fibre. I can't say I'm very knowledgeable on abrasives. The scrubby stuff on your kitchen sponges is an abrasive but I imagine it doesn't contain aluminium oxide particles? Maybe it does. I've learned something new.

Obviously any abrasive will create a dust that requires cleaning so its not the use of scotchbrite that would be the problem anyway it's the lack of attention to cleaning after use.

Let me be clear that I would never use an abrasive on the block deck or head as to not risk any crap into the oil ways that can't be cleaned out. A tiny bit of flat sump mating face not near any ways or ports that can be thoroughly cleaned after, shouldn't be a problem. I will admit I overlooked he probably has other more critical areas to clean. My bad, head hung in shame.

 

[Bill Edwards]

These things usually scrape off, if it's proving stubborn brake/clutch/parts cleaner is highly effective on just about everything.

If it's not high enough to peel off with a scraper (plastic or Stanley/razor blade) then it's not an issue.

 

[Johnseat]

Use a soft brass wire brush wheel in a slow speed drill and take your time.
I've done a few of these k series head gaskets and always had success with the above method.
Also don't use the shim spacer head gasket kits and they are garbage, use the metal and red sealant landrover gasket, readily available from eurocarparts.
I've not a return since using the landrover gasket, the shim gaskets fail within a year.

 

[Pete.]

I am rebuilding a K series engine and struggling to remove the brown staining on the flanges which I presume is the old anaerobic sealant from when the engine was assembled

so far I have tried

wd40, white spirit, meths, cellulose thinners, polycell paint stripper

There is a fair amount of clean metal around the stains but I have been trying to get it back to as new which may be a bit optimistic for a 17 year old engine

I did have a google and found references to zip paint remover which is why I tried the polycell as I had that on the shelf

any further suggestions? do I need to totally remove all stains? This is what I am talking about

View attachment 89569

I don't think any more needs removing. It looks perfectly good to assemble to me. The new sealant will have thickness, or there will be no point having any.

 

[brightspark]

mating surfaces I just scrape off with a 6inch steel rule its been the tried and tested method for more years than I care to remember

 

[Robotstar5]

mating surfaces I just scrape off with a 6inch steel rule its been the tried and tested method for more years than I care to remember

I wore the "edge" off one of my rules using it as a scraper

 

[Bill Edwards]

A proper tool, either which has a sharp edge similar to a wood chisel or holds a blade is best. The sharp edge does a better job than a ruler, some deposits can be quite stubborn.
Always work away from yourself though...

 

[MrFluffy]

I use single edge razors freehand with no holder or handle, one of these, just bought another pack after this thread reminded me as I'm on my last one. They're handy for removing lettering and stickers from windscreens etc but one of these and you can slice even stubborn gaskets off. Just hold them as parallel to the surface as you can and they will slice gently without digging in.

 

[mcostello]

Alcohol is supposed to be a solvent for RTV.

 

[MattF]

I thought it was just a resin infused synthetic fibre. I can't say I'm very knowledgeable on abrasives. The scrubby stuff on your kitchen sponges is an abrasive but I imagine it doesn't contain aluminium oxide particles? Maybe it does. I've learned something new.

Nylon pan scourers should be harmless. Can't see owt funky being allowed around stuff designed for food use. Saying that though, I even avoid using those if there's chance the dust could get into moving parts, or if I can't clean it off fully afterwards. I always use them with either water or something like paraffin/kerosene too, so that any dust is wet, so easily wiped off.

Scraper wise, I like copper. Either a copper coin else a piece of flattened end copper tube. It's too soft to harm the metal being worked, but hard enough to remove anything on the surface.

 

[HughF]

Just done a transit engine, more sealant surfaces than I care to remember, razorblade worked for me. Used wynns rtv in a can when I put it backntogether.