How to lift a car for welding?

[Randall977]

Any tips as to the best way to roll / lift / tilt my car so I can access the underside to start welding repairs to the chassis. I have about 18" of space above the roof of the car (as shown) before the underside of the shed roof. I looked at body rollers but they look a bit dodgy, do they risk damaging the body? What about some kind of frame?

Thanks

Christian

 

[cumbriasteve]

I don't think you have enough clearance for a roller even though they do seem to work well.

Good solid wooden blocks would be my option, lower one side and raise the other as much as possible, then repeat to get to the other half.

You should be able to get it to 45 degrees or so.

 

[lazydog]

Railway sleepers might be the only way to go lack of height make anything else impossible

 

[the snooper]

i think you could make some sort of frame tilt it outside and roll it back under cover to work on

 

[piman]

Hello Christian,

how bad do you think it is? I see that the body is still intact over the sills? If the rot is only at the outside and lower section you don't need that much height to repair. What about the rear wheel arch where the radius rods mount, again repairable without too much height required. Another weak are is where the brake and clutch master cylinders are mounted but are quite hidden.

Alec

 

[MG David]

I like the Lagonda, taste.

 

[Randall977]

Thanks MG David!

The car is aluminium skinned so looks good on the outside. It's actually not too bad under either but the front outriggers, front footwell floorpans, front and rear sections of sill and a couple of sections of chassis are rotten. A lot of welding is required but it's savable. All I need to do is learn to weld , I have a Portamig 215 btw, so I'm ready to go!

 

[NTwoO]

And something like this?

 

[Randall977]

That is what I was thinking but it means the axles take all of the weight of the car. I have some rot around the rear axle mounting points and it's a de dion rear axle as well...

 

[steveo3002]

are the bumper mounts man enough to take a home made stand? custom make it as high as you can?

 

[Randall977]

Sadly not. I think I will go down the sleeper route...

 

[ghound]

Make a smaller version of this

 

[Chickenjohn]

I agree with steveo 3002.

Take out the engine and gearbox and remove the interior and as much of the exterior panels as you can and out the car on a bumper mount rotisery. Make sure the metal around the bumper mounts is good first and if you need to cut out structure, then brace across the door gaps and across the middle of the car.

Nice car, by the way!

 

[howardm]

I agree with steveo 3002.

Take out the engine and gearbox and remove the interior and as much of the exterior panels as you can and out the car on a bumper mount rotisery. Make sure the metal around the bumper mounts is good first and if you need to cut out structure, then brace across the door gaps and across the middle of the car.

Nice car, by the way!

Took the words from my mouth.
but with a longitudinal ladder subframe perhaps.

Howard

 

[Randall977]

Thanks. The next step is to remove the engine and g/b, the interior is already out. Front and rear bumper mounts cannot be trusted, I think axles are safest...

 

[philpullan]

if your doing a full rebuild strip off any parts like doors/wings you dont want to get dinted and roll it over onto tyres or even thrownaway matresses ive seen used be carefull off fire with them thought wet them first

 

[piman]

Hello Randall,

a fair bit of welding, however the central section rails are very strong and can support the car. Are you planning to MIG weld the outer panel sections you have to cut away to access the frame. At least the steel section are easily fabricated.
I seem to remember the recommended way to remove the engine and gearbox is to jack the rear up as high as possible as it needs to come out at a very steep angle to clear the front crossmember. (Or else remove the gearbox first?)

Phil, I wouldn't roll one of these onto a surface however soft as the body is all aluminium.

Alec

 

[Randall977]

Hi Alec, so what AM have you worked on then? Yes you do need to lift the rear 12" to remove the engine. My plan is to cut part of the outer aluminium sills away to expose the inner MS sills - these are the same as DB5 sills. The main chassis rails are solid except for a drop down section either side of the gearbox - this will be my first port of call to add strength back into the chassis. Apart from that there are various front floor pan repairs and various other repairs at various points - it will keep me busy! I think I will use timbers to lift the car to a 45 (ish) degree, these will be fixed roughly inline with the axles - a bit like a body roller...