Sergei Slovenija
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A small explanatory drawing, would you mind? Or a photo plsA fairly crude and simple die plus a 25T hydraulic press would do that fairly effortlessly many times over. And if you thought the design out correctly you could do the both ends with one die so you haven’t got to manufacture two as I assume you’ll want the same feature on the opposite side of the angle, but the other hand
ready-made corner profile, with shelf dimensions 25*25 or 30*30 mm, and thickness 2.5 mm. Angle of hot-rolled profile, from the inside more than 90 degrees, obtuse angle.Are you starting with angle iron or from a flat sheet? Length and thickness?
I naively believe that the profile can be deformed using a hydraulic tool in the shape of the letter C (bracket), originally intended for punching holes, with a 30-ton hydraulic cylinder. Return of the punch by an internal spring in the cylinder. I don't need high performance, I need repeatability.Before you make the proper tool it would be worth cobbling something experimental together so you can dial in/allow for the spring back when you finalise the tool form.
Bob
This element is solely a matter of the external design of the product. Behind the modest simplicity there is complexity, and behind the hidden complexity of manufacturing there is lightness and smoothness of lines. I have seen similar connections in old Victorian industrial architecture. People bothered because they could. The photo shows modern work, and someone was able to do this too.is there any reason why your using angle iron instead of a bar
i can understand it on the top but the middle area it could be just a flat bar unless its a long length but a v shape would stabilise the long length even if you was riveting it
I have seen this "joggle" on old farm implements, they look to be old enough before welding came into use.This element is solely a matter of the external design of the product. Behind the modest simplicity there is complexity, and behind the hidden complexity of manufacturing there is lightness and smoothness of lines. I have seen similar connections in old Victorian industrial architecture. People bothered because they could. The photo shows modern work, and someone was able to do this too.
I want to use real rivet technology to create several designer pieces of furniture. If possible, eliminating welding work or making it invisible. I study the issue and see how it was done before. This is the case when the inner perfectionist haunts me.
Are you starting with angle iron or from a flat sheet? Length and thickness?
8ob has already shown it can be done and 2.5mm should be very doable cold.
The issue with a pre formed angle will be distortion in the unbent part. If you're doing 100 off, you might want to invest some time in making a clamp to hold the edge you don't want to move. A typical trick with something like that is to plan on having a fair bit of waste. Form it from a piece a bit "too long" so that you can bolt the free end to a strong support and clamp the long end. That should give you enough clearance to get the press tooling in place. Then trim to length.
Even then, you're probably going to need to finesse the part on the side of an anvil. Appreciate you don't want to use heat but that would help tremendously to either stop too much of a crease from forming or after it does form and you need to forge it into final shape.
I wonder if it might be easier/better to clamp the entire straight (pointing down) and form an upset by hammering or pressing down on the end. Might just get away with some very solid clamps on the side of the anvil or a fixture on the press bed.
Damn, I wanna have a go myself now...
Surely a job for your lovely fly press?