rcx132
Philip
- Messages
- 3,034
- Location
- London, UK
I like the two chains idea. I was lazy as well until the chains wore out, taking the cassette and chainrings out with them, gear changes got worse and I had to replace entire drivetrain on three of the four family bikes. I take care now and use a chain wear tool.it may be naughty and probably get a lot of hate but i never wash a chain especially in winter
pre winter i spray on a dry lubricant and then a chain wax and leave it
adding water into the mix is only going to make it worse
one of my pals has two chains and swaps them over each month in a cycle of clean and lube but again never uses water, he dunks the removed chains in diesel and agitates to clean and lube then after drys it off and uses the same muc off dry lube i use
guess im just lazy and chains are really cheap![]()
Glad I'm not the only one using hydrocarbons in a parts washer. I get nervous about doing it but they work so much better than water based degreaser. The only issue I've had is when I've left the bike parts dirty too long and they have become entrenched with mud. Diesel doesn't like cleaning mud.I have used Chainsaw Chain Oil for donkeys years on first my M/C chains and later on my MTB's.
If you recall Scottoiler - well Chainsaw Oil is pretty much what Scottoil is under the branding.
I got 30,000m out of an XJR1300 chain - and that was not hanging about & untold wheelies.
Most chain lubes are too "sticky" with their anti-fling agents, so gum up with dirt/dust & accelerate wear IMO.
The last chain on my SRAM 12-speed E-Mtb lasted 1000km before wearing past 0.5mm stretch using Chainsaw Oil - and that's in the harsh Welsh Forests etc.
I wash the bike down after a ride (hose & brush), then use the compressor to blow all water off the drive-train, then re-lube using an old toothbrush.
Periodically I put the chain & cassette in my wee Clarke worktop parts washer (with Kero in it - again IMO a better cleaner than expensive branded stuff), then compressor dry, refit & re-lube.