dobbslc
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- Hertfordshire UK
Best suggestion yet, plus you've got a perfect excuse to bill your friendBuy a collet chuck?
Cut 3 slivers of copper,the length of the thread,place between thread and each chuck jaw and clamp onto threaded part of bolt.
Thats why we dial things inThe trouble with this option and many of the previously-suggested options is that it does not guarantee that any work done on the bolt is concentric with any previous feature of the bolt.
Winding the threaded bit into a studding connector is particularly bad, as the outside hex of these is rarely concentric with the threads (the connectors are cheaply and badly made).
A collet chuck gripping on the threads assumes the threads of the bolt are concentric with the plain portion. That is not always a sound assumption.
The best one above is by Chippie as then the centre hole you make will be concentric with the plain shank. However, then gripping the head in a standard 3-jaw chuck risks undoing all your previous work as the head, especially if forged, may not be concentric with the shaft. Yes, grip the head, but in a 4-jaw and dial the plain shank in until it is running true.
Surprised no one mentioned the house roof falling off and crashing into the cars on the drive when it vibrates in the lathemountain out of a molehill
It is actually the correct bolt for a Triumph GT6 rear shock as the originals did not have a sleeve in the bushProbably be cheaper to buy the correct bolt . . . especially when he tried to get the now rusted bolt back out in five years time