I bought a Miller syncrowave 300 For doing aluminum repair on boats etc. I picked it up in Dallas Texas prob. 3 years ago.Came with tig cooler and foot control .I hooked it up maybe a year ago and since i had never tig welded before I tryed some stick welding with it . It humble me fairly quick . It seemed to strike a arc fine some times then the next time it would spit sputter like low power. When I finally had a chance to hook it up I had a friend help me . He has done a lot of tig welding through the years .WE could't Seem to get hyfreq to work or establish a arc. After many countless hours on computer searching forums I am still trying to figure it out . I need a little direction on where to start and finish trouble shooting.Would like to find copy of repair manual that would walk me through trouble shooting the problem.
- Thread starter Jay Lentz
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slim_boy_fat
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Welcome aboard, Jay. 
Can't help with the TIG but I'm sure some of the lads with much experience will be along shortly. 
Can't help with the TIG but I'm sure some of the lads with much experience will be along shortly. 
NotANormalCoder
Retired fixer of welders
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Hi Jay
Bit late to this thread, so I hope this is relevant. I have Owners manual and also service manual which I am happy to email if you PM me your email address. Meanwhile, HF problems often caused by circuit board PCB2 - smaller of the two in the box upper area of right hand side. Relay that controls HF fails as it's a bit small. Also you need to check spark gaps (0.008"), HF capacitors and also the front panel fuse (15Amp??) that supplies all the 110Volt circuits. If you want more info, please feel free to contact me.
Dave
Bit late to this thread, so I hope this is relevant. I have Owners manual and also service manual which I am happy to email if you PM me your email address. Meanwhile, HF problems often caused by circuit board PCB2 - smaller of the two in the box upper area of right hand side. Relay that controls HF fails as it's a bit small. Also you need to check spark gaps (0.008"), HF capacitors and also the front panel fuse (15Amp??) that supplies all the 110Volt circuits. If you want more info, please feel free to contact me.
Dave
Jim Davey
R H Davey Welding Supplies Ltd
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Good advice above, I’d also recommend you try it again in stick mode.
Set contractor switch to local, set current control to panel. Select DC Medium amperage and straight polarity. Then try to run some electrodes. If the set has good steady output and the current varies on the dial then you know the control on the DC welding output is ok. You can then switch to AC and try that in stick mode too.
If that’s fine as well then hopefully nothing more serious than an HF problem. Speaking of which, there is a neat solution to replace the OEM HF arrangement which is prone to unreliability and causing problems to nearby electronics. A universal HF system from TechArc in the UK entirely replaces the old system and does away with the spark gap, is adjustable for intensity and can be synced for smooth operation in AC mode. Well worth the job of swapping it out if your old system proves to be faulty.
Set contractor switch to local, set current control to panel. Select DC Medium amperage and straight polarity. Then try to run some electrodes. If the set has good steady output and the current varies on the dial then you know the control on the DC welding output is ok. You can then switch to AC and try that in stick mode too.
If that’s fine as well then hopefully nothing more serious than an HF problem. Speaking of which, there is a neat solution to replace the OEM HF arrangement which is prone to unreliability and causing problems to nearby electronics. A universal HF system from TechArc in the UK entirely replaces the old system and does away with the spark gap, is adjustable for intensity and can be synced for smooth operation in AC mode. Well worth the job of swapping it out if your old system proves to be faulty.
slim_boy_fat
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Mhhh, one post from the OP and never seen again. 
