mr migwire
It's more fun with metal.
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mr migwire
It's more fun with metal.
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sorry should have added its got four control dials
1. pulse length
2. pulse frequency
3. base current
4. peak current
it also has 3 switches
1. post flow, i know this is for the gas
2. is a three way toggle switch which has a broken line at position 1
a stepped line at position 2 and a bigger stepped line at position 3.
the last switch is mma/tig i understand this bit
1. pulse length
2. pulse frequency
3. base current
4. peak current
it also has 3 switches
1. post flow, i know this is for the gas
2. is a three way toggle switch which has a broken line at position 1
a stepped line at position 2 and a bigger stepped line at position 3.
the last switch is mma/tig i understand this bit
mr migwire
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no one got any ideas on how to set this thing up?
brightspark
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christ im dumfounded
theres normaly a whole host of replies 
normaly its the far end of a fart and where it comes from Start with this thread which is about pulsed TIG and has links to other threads on the same topic.
This sort of machine often uses these sorts of symbols to switch the pulse on/off (solid line=off usually) and alter the preset pulse frequencies (the broken lines represent different frequencies) but if yours has seperate dials for those then try posting a proper pic of the front panel.
Miller TIG resources won't help much with pulsed TIG but is worth downloading. Really need to able to weld to set up and properly benefit from pulsed TIG and then it's only really useful on thin heat sensitive materials. There'll be a way of turning the pulse off (even if it involves setting the base current and peak current to the same value) which make life easier until you've got to used things/learnt puddle control.
If it's any consolation the manual wouldn't tell you how to set the thing up anyway
This sort of machine often uses these sorts of symbols to switch the pulse on/off (solid line=off usually) and alter the preset pulse frequencies (the broken lines represent different frequencies) but if yours has seperate dials for those then try posting a proper pic of the front panel.
Miller TIG resources won't help much with pulsed TIG but is worth downloading. Really need to able to weld to set up and properly benefit from pulsed TIG and then it's only really useful on thin heat sensitive materials. There'll be a way of turning the pulse off (even if it involves setting the base current and peak current to the same value) which make life easier until you've got to used things/learnt puddle control.
If it's any consolation the manual wouldn't tell you how to set the thing up anyway
mr migwire
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thanks so far guys, ive been welding for years with mig and stick and i use oxy/acetelene now and again but i never used tig,
i was told its very simmilar to gas welding in regards to the weld pool and filler material etc and thought "how hard can it be" the welding part isn't a real issue its more trying to set up the plant to get a stable ark at the right power for the job.
i will try and get a pic of the front pannel up today and hopefully someone can help get me sorted, i trawled the net for instruction on setting up the plant but to no availe.
i was told its very simmilar to gas welding in regards to the weld pool and filler material etc and thought "how hard can it be"
the welding part isn't a real issue its more trying to set up the plant to get a stable ark at the right power for the job.i will try and get a pic of the front pannel up today and hopefully someone can help get me sorted, i trawled the net for instruction on setting up the plant but to no availe.
mr migwire
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Switch #2 works in conjunction with the pulse frequency dial- the 2 squarewave lines select either low (inner) or high (outer) scales on the dial, set the toggle switch to the dashed line and pulse should be switched off i reckon. I'd expect the peak current dial to be the one that'll adjust amperage with the pulser switched off
Pulse width adjusts the time spent in 'peak current'. I suspect it works on a percentage basis i.e. a setting of 0.5 would be 50% peak, 50% background with it adjusting 'peak current' time
With all the different variables you're pretty much on your own with regards to pulse settings- a lot of it is user preference and i can guarentee that me telling you settings i use for a particular job will not help you as aside from the fact it's a different machine things like arc length and travel speed make a big difference. The link i posted last night contains pretty much i can say about setting/devolping pulse parameters
With pulse off just amps to worry about. Things like the Miller TIG calculator (in TIG resources) seem to be based on the 1A/0.001" (around 40A/mm) rule of thumb which is sometimes close, sometimes miles out depending on material, joint type and joint prep. Again arc length makes a big difference and with thicker material preps/root gaps alter amperage requirements and travel speed has a big influence. Reckon on around 30-40A for butt welding 1mm ish steel, mid 30s to mid 40s for 1.5mm stainless (both without gaps/preps), could be 80- 120A for 3mm steel depending on joint type and (in the case of butts) root gap. As you get used to TIG you'll start welding faster with more amps. You'll get away with 2.5secs post flow for tacking but for everything else will need that set to 5 secs for the tungstens sake.
Pulse width adjusts the time spent in 'peak current'. I suspect it works on a percentage basis i.e. a setting of 0.5 would be 50% peak, 50% background with it adjusting 'peak current' time
With all the different variables you're pretty much on your own with regards to pulse settings- a lot of it is user preference and i can guarentee that me telling you settings i use for a particular job will not help you as aside from the fact it's a different machine things like arc length and travel speed make a big difference. The link i posted last night contains pretty much i can say about setting/devolping pulse parameters
With pulse off just amps to worry about. Things like the Miller TIG calculator (in TIG resources) seem to be based on the 1A/0.001" (around 40A/mm) rule of thumb which is sometimes close, sometimes miles out depending on material, joint type and joint prep. Again arc length makes a big difference and with thicker material preps/root gaps alter amperage requirements and travel speed has a big influence. Reckon on around 30-40A for butt welding 1mm ish steel, mid 30s to mid 40s for 1.5mm stainless (both without gaps/preps), could be 80- 120A for 3mm steel depending on joint type and (in the case of butts) root gap. As you get used to TIG you'll start welding faster with more amps. You'll get away with 2.5secs post flow for tacking but for everything else will need that set to 5 secs for the tungstens sake.
mr migwire
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cheers for that hotrodder, its starting to make some sense to me now.
when i first got it i thought it looked akin to mr sulu's control pannel on the star ship enterprise
,
my mig has the amps, feed speed, and spot timer which is enough for me to handle, any more and the brain starts over heating
thanks again guys,
i will post a progress report and try and get pics of my first attempt with it.
when i first got it i thought it looked akin to mr sulu's control pannel on the star ship enterprise
, my mig has the amps, feed speed, and spot timer which is enough for me to handle, any more and the brain starts over heating
thanks again guys,
i will post a progress report and try and get pics of my first attempt with it.
Nahh that's a simple one, add things like slope controls, initial and crater current, 2T/4T torch latching, AC frequency and balance controls and things get interesting
For something that looks like it came from a star trek set have a gander at something like an old Miller Aerowave or it's modern relative the Dynasty 700 with menu selection of parameters and a bunch of hidden ones too. All time most complicated looking panel award must go to Kemppi though
Might well already be aware of this but just in case as you mentioned oxy fuel experience... be aware that while the filler is the same for stainless, mild steel TIG wire is different from oxy fuel i.e. very likely get porosity and other problems if you use oxy wire with TIG. TIG wire works with oxy but is nowhere as nice to weld with.
mr migwire
It's more fun with metal.
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holy heck, i take it not only can you weld with the kemppi but also beam people up...
even my hobart plant i used at work was a breaze to set up, i'll tell you there was none of them ther electronic gizzmos and gadgets in my day, give me an oil filled stick plant anytime
anyway big thanks to hot rodder and everyone ealse who replied its good to know there's a wealth of combined knowlege that can be called on if needed and theres also this forum
cheers guys im of to burn some rods......
even my hobart plant i used at work was a breaze to set up, i'll tell you there was none of them ther electronic gizzmos and gadgets in my day, give me an oil filled stick plant anytime
anyway big thanks to hot rodder and everyone ealse who replied its good to know there's a wealth of combined knowlege that can be called on if needed and theres also this forum
cheers guys im of to burn some rods......
