outofthefire
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No it needs to be tig welded, I dare say it can be mig welded, but it needs pure argon and the expense of a roll of Ti wire will probably make your hair curl
- Thread starter greeners
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No it needs to be tig welded, I dare say it can be mig welded, but it needs pure argon and the expense of a roll of Ti wire will probably make your hair curl
outofthefire
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Oh and you need a titanium nut to weld on as well
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Well I was curious....this clip seems to show brazing titanium to stainless.....it isn't pretty...and I've never tried it.....but lets face it, you aren't making an exhaust!
Has anyone tried this?...I've tried mig braze on mild steel and stainless and that worked well.
Worse case you'll get the bolt nice and hot
I would give it a go but I haven't got any titanium lying around!
Has anyone tried this?...I've tried mig braze on mild steel and stainless and that worked well.
Worse case you'll get the bolt nice and hot
I would give it a go but I haven't got any titanium lying around!
SUCCESS................Thank you for all your advice, I bit the bullet and heated up until the tip of the stud was cherry red then left it for a moment or two to sink in, and it eventually wound it out. What I did note was that there was far more threadlock on this one then all the others.
ajlelectronics
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I have another fun one. Cast head on an Essex. Bolt sheared off in the past 3mm down the hole. Filled with 'repair' paste in the past in a misguided attempt to seal it.
I have tried all my drill bits including a new Cobalt and nothing will even mark it, let alone cut it. I assume that it must be a stainless bolt so now I am at a crossroads. This is a customer car that came in for minor works, so have to watch the bill. If it were my own, the head would be off and spark eroded, but the engine is gasping its last breaths anyway. One head off will lead to both off, then head overhauls because it has leaky valves and all for a block that is knacked!
Next option is to try a weld which I don't fancy in situ with being so close to fuel etc. Also it will take some accuracy to fire down the hole and not weld the stub into place! One saving grace is that I am not desperate to keep the thread intact as it can become a through hole with nut and screw to secure it.
I have tried all my drill bits including a new Cobalt and nothing will even mark it, let alone cut it. I assume that it must be a stainless bolt so now I am at a crossroads. This is a customer car that came in for minor works, so have to watch the bill. If it were my own, the head would be off and spark eroded, but the engine is gasping its last breaths anyway. One head off will lead to both off, then head overhauls because it has leaky valves and all for a block that is knacked!
Next option is to try a weld which I don't fancy in situ with being so close to fuel etc. Also it will take some accuracy to fire down the hole and not weld the stub into place! One saving grace is that I am not desperate to keep the thread intact as it can become a through hole with nut and screw to secure it.
ajlelectronics
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Just spoken to the owner who wants me to put it back together as is and he will look for a replacement engine. He doesn't think it is worth life support for this one.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Had one of those the other day...leaking injector seals on a ford diesel lump with oil everywhere (and I mean literally everywhere!)....owner decided they would just drive it away....my advice....make sure the invoice is thoroughly filled out so there is no come back!
pressbrake1
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That’s why you need a little stash of carbide drills
eLuSiVeMiTe
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pressbrake1
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They will cut through 12.9 like they’re butter.
Had a job a few weeks ago involving seized m20 12.9 countersunk bolts in a bronze linear bearing.The bolts had also been dowelled through the head
No one would touch it and one lot wanted £500 tooling deposit
16mm u drill and 15 minutes the part was apart and another five minutes with stillsons and Oxy fuel torch getting the stubs out of the steel frame and the money was mine
Good old carbide
Had a job a few weeks ago involving seized m20 12.9 countersunk bolts in a bronze linear bearing.The bolts had also been dowelled through the head
No one would touch it and one lot wanted £500 tooling deposit
16mm u drill and 15 minutes the part was apart and another five minutes with stillsons and Oxy fuel torch getting the stubs out of the steel frame and the money was mine
Good old carbide
outofthefire
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I've not tried it, but I have read posts suggesting regrinding masonry bits. I think if it was me i'd give it ago in a last resort.
pressbrake1
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It can work depends on the sintering material in the carbide
brightspark
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bosch do a multidrill carbide tipped with a proper cutting edge on them for steel wood and concrete. ive been getting the cheap impact drills for years and grind a proper cutting edge on them with a green stone in grinder
even drill hss with them using heat as well 