Heeeelp!

[Richard.]

Good thinking Richard , i've got an excuse i'm off sick not feeling well !

Hope nothing serious. How's that lovely little Tig of yours going. Trouble free now I hope.

 

[Tigman]

got a chest infection on the antibiotics so should be right !

The Tig is working fine , brand new with 3 more years of warranty cant be bad !

 

[Richard.]

got a chest infection on the antibiotics so should be right !

The Tig is working fine , brand new with 3 more years of warranty cant be bad !

Not good. Yeah a box of penicillin should shift that.
It's the least they owed you for the hassle the 1st one caused. It's nice kit though certainly on my short list should I need another acdc. And the pedal looks impressive too.

 

[Ami]

With a long stickout I would probably nail it without too much difficultly, however (and with no disrespect intended) looking at the existing welding I would say that the op is going to struggle,

Ok, yeah, I'm new to ss, still learning the balance between amps and speed speacialy when freehanding. Btw no offence taken, it realy is an ugly weld! That being said, its getting better but I dont like to settle for less than great. I pulled my tungsten out 10-15 mm, upped the gas to 18ish. Theres no way I can get a good angle in there, so should I melt through the flang edge and push lots of filler? Any advice along with amps and speed would be very great.

 

[Ami]

Btw, I did cut like 5 mm off, worked out fine but the supervisor said not to. Grrrr I only have 60 of them to weld. Crash course.
.

 

[Ami]

With not knowing what that cap does if it was a butchering type of job I'd cut a hole in the bottom like the others say before hacking at the cap hole. Incase there is a rubber seal or something in the cap that sits flush on the top surface . You might create a bigger problem if it doesn't seal properly when finished. I'd like to know the distance he's got between the two items in the tightest spot. I could replicate the joint at work and share some advice. It really doesn't look that tight to me.

3 mm. I'm working with a 5 ceramic.

 

[Richard.]

Ok, yeah, I'm new to ss, still learning the balance between amps and speed speacialy when freehanding. Btw no offence taken, it realy is an ugly weld! That being said, its getting better but I dont like to settle for less than great. I pulled my tungsten out 10-15 mm, upped the gas to 18ish. Theres no way I can get a good angle in there, so should I melt through the flang edge and push lots of filler? Any advice along with amps and speed would be very great.

SS tig is difficult and unless you've got the time in can be a battle to get the desired finish. It doesn't wet like MS. Too low a current and it forces slow travel on your hand which in turn causes bad distortion. To high a current and you end up burning the chromium out of the weld and parent causing a grey dull weld that's about as weather resistant as steel. I do bits and peices which is enough to keep my hand in and achieve acceptable results. Tig Paul does it day in day out and his ss tig is nothing less that admirable. Check out stainless steel projects on here to see some of it.
Regarding this job please give me some info and I'll repeat it at work on Thursday if you can wait till then. I need the height of the cap flange and the distance at the tightest point between the two faces. I'll get you some results. Overcoming welding and engineering problems is what I do day in day out so I can replicate pretty much what your trying to do and give you some options.

 

[Ami]

Thank you very much! I'll post the measurments first thing in the morning.

 

[Richard.]

When you were asking about 2-10mm this was the test piece that I got the best conditions to advise on. Like I say I'm not the neatest on the forum but I do enough to keep things fresh along with all other processes.
My aim above was to wet On to the 2mm but not cut it away. The arc remained on the 10mm.

 

[Ami]

Nice! 1.6 filler?

 

[Richard.]

150 amps. 2mm 308 filler, 2.4 2% thoriated tungsten needle sharp prep around 2 1/2 times tungsten diameter in length. No 8 cup on a standard lens. 8lpm and 12 seconds of post flow.

 

[Tigman]

nice looking weld Richard !

 

[Richard.]

nice looking weld Richard !

Cheers mate.

 

[Ami]

The flange is 60mm around, the wall is 3mm and the distance between the flange and the back is 2.5mm.

 

[HughF]

Urghhh... Stainless tig. I doubt I'll ever master it as I do so little to keep proficient. I used to do loads of .8 and 1mm fused stuff for bed pan washing machines, but these days it's all Ali coming through the door, which I much prefer. You're right on the money there Richard, practice is needed.

 

[Richard.]

The flange is 60mm around, the wall is 3mm and the distance between the flange and the back is 2.5mm.

Tighter than it looks. What's the height of the round part.

 

[Ami]

3

 

[Richard.]

Really???? 3mm

 

[Ami]

Lol, yup. It's a weld nightmare.

 

[Richard.]

That's not difficult mate it looks higher than that. That has made it much simpler. I'd treat it like a butt joint and just keep the cap height down below the 3 mm flange. So in the back you'll be joining all 3 bits with that one weld. Very simple I'll show you Thursday if you don't know what I mean.