mtt.tr
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But equally I've found faults that others chaps would have played a game change everything until it works.I suffer too with this terrible affliction.![]()
But equally I've found faults that others chaps would have played a game change everything until it works.I suffer too with this terrible affliction.![]()
...which usually goes something like " I got 4.5V, it should be 5V but it's probably my meter or the leads so I thought it was near enough" when pressed on the reason they changed the same sensor eight times but missed the damaged sensor supply wire not 200mm from the plug....But equally I've found faults that others chaps would have played a game change everything until it works.
...which usually goes something like " I got 4.5V, it should be 5V but it's probably my meter or the leads so I thought it was near enough" when pressed on the reason they changed the same sensor eight times but missed the damaged sensor supply wire not 200mm from the plug....
Getting an accurate measurement is one thing, knowing how to interpret it is another.
I thought Autel covered Jap cars?I bought an autel scan tool about 12 years ago for checking codes on my cars.In the last 20 years I've been driving japanese cars so the scanner is still in the box.
No data logger thoughSure I don't have a problem but I do have 4 'scopes
and..
6 pressure/vacuum sensors
2 HT lead voltage sensors
2 differential pressure sensors (intake and exhaust)
2 COP sensors
3D motion sensor
KESY sensor (for Keyless entry and other stuff 140kHz)
433Mhz pick up (Key fobs)
Parking sensor... sensor
Pulse sensor for diesel pipe pressure
Sound pick up
3 amp clamps
For the similarly afflicted rotkee.com can allow you to indulge without breaking the budget.
Its not that it doesn't work on japanese cars, as the cars are japanese I've had no need to use a fault code scanner.I thought Autel covered Jap cars?
Electronics is black magic to me by the way!
Its not that it doesn't work on japanese cars, as the cars are japanese I've had no need to use a fault code scanner.
Hmm.... I'm thinking that would be useful for road-test data - I have a Picoscope and a datalogger which are great for workshop use but a pain for capturing engine, drivetrain or suspension data under load. A couple of questions if I may @Wightsparks , is the data exportable and what are the niggles? Thanks.Back to the OP's actual question about a handheld I also have one of these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294558504566?
View attachment 328588
It has a few niggles but good enough to check a sensor output or monitor P/G for drop outs.
Yet you still bought one.... I'll let my colleagues at the Toyota dealership know, I'm sure they'll be happy they can sell-off their unused diagnostic kit & racks of special tools.Its not that it doesn't work on japanese cars, as the cars are japanese I've had no need to use a fault code scanner.
Because they rust away before they get a chance to break?
Yet you still bought one.... I'll let my colleagues at the Toyota dealership know, I'm sure they'll be happy they can sell-off their unused diagnostic kit & racks of special tools.
Sorry mate, as soon as you mentioned Mazda, that's all credibility blown - well known rustbuckets with the mechanical resilience of a paper bag. In the rain. Yep, it's the internet so you can claim what you want, from a sample of one, you may well be right. My experience is not the same as yours.My first mazda 323 lasted 14 years plus the 5 years or so before I bought it. Second one probably ten years plus the 5 years before. My first suzuki was a bit rusty but was probably 15 years when I scrapped it. Current one is 13 years old 130k and still going strong.All just had routine servicing although I have had to replace a sunvisor on my latest suzuki swift.
Sorry mate, as soon as you mentioned Mazda, that's all credibility blown - well known rustbuckets with the mechanical resilience of a paper bag. In the rain. Yep, it's the internet so you can claim what you want, from a sample of one, you may well be right. My experience is not the same as yours.
My first mazda 323 lasted 14 years plus the 5 years or so before I bought it. Second one probably ten years plus the 5 years before. My first suzuki was a bit rusty but was probably 15 years when I scrapped it. Current one is 13 years old 130k and still going strong.All just had routine servicing although I have had to replace a sunvisor on my latest suzuki swift.
I pay about £3k -£3.5k for a car if it last 10 years without any work before I need to scrap it thats good for me.