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brightspark
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for cutting what and what size blades ??hand saws are called pannel saws as well for wood .ripsaw or crosscut blades ??
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Lawnmowerboy
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What a hacksaw a wood saw?
simplysimon
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like this?
Bahco Ergo Handsaw System
Bahco Ergo Handsaw System
norlander
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I switched to pull saws for carpentry and some makes have changeable blades see these
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodwo...ets-set-of-3-shark-japanese-saws-shark+sjsset
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodwo...ets-set-of-3-shark-japanese-saws-shark+sjsset
Shox Dr
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IMO a load of rubbish. In fact all disposable saws are pish. I go through a saw a month, on average and that's without hitting nails.
If you really really, want a good saw buy a Disston, you'll need two one for cross cut the other for rip. They will outlast you.
Otherwise Spear and Jackson are not bad, keeping an edge better than the likes of Bacho.
If you really really, want a good saw buy a Disston, you'll need two one for cross cut the other for rip. They will outlast you.
Otherwise Spear and Jackson are not bad, keeping an edge better than the likes of Bacho.
Wendelspanswick
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Do you sharpen them yourself or farm them out.
Personally I use S and J disposable handsaws and traditional tenon saws which I farm out for sharpening, too many tiny teeth to do myself.
Shox Dr
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No. I haven't used a Diston in a longtime. I got fed up of idiots cutting plasterboard, concrete, you name it with them. So started using disposable saws. I cut a lot of old timber and chipboard*, both have unknown items in them.
My fathers mate used to pop round every saturday, pick up our saws, and drop 4 off (2 cross 2 rip cuts), so while I can sharpen saws, I never really got good at it.
*cut a piece of clipboard with a circular saw, in low light, you will soon understand why saws don't last long cutting the stuff, seeing all the sparks: it's full of metal, concrete plastic dead dogs etc etc
My fathers mate used to pop round every saturday, pick up our saws, and drop 4 off (2 cross 2 rip cuts), so while I can sharpen saws, I never really got good at it.
*cut a piece of clipboard with a circular saw, in low light, you will soon understand why saws don't last long cutting the stuff, seeing all the sparks: it's full of metal, concrete plastic dead dogs etc etc
Wendelspanswick
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Reminds me off when I worked in a local sawmill which used a large bandsaw mill, which ran on tracks, to convert the tree trunks into planks. The sawyer was cussing and swearing because something in the tree had taken all the tips off the band saw blade. We investigated with chainsaws and axes and found a galvanised bucket handle embedded in the tree! In the dim and distant past someone had hung a bucket over a limb on a tree and over the years the tree had grown over the handle absorbing it into the wood.
At least it wasn't the whole bucket.
Shox Dr
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Very common. Barbed wire is another culprit. There's thousands of hectares of hardwood, around the world unusable because of shrapnel.
A local guy I know had a load of railway sleepers planked to make doors with, he reckoned didn't have any rubbish in them. The bandsaw soon told a different story. The trains push the gravel deep into the wood
A local guy I know had a load of railway sleepers planked to make doors with, he reckoned didn't have any rubbish in them. The bandsaw soon told a different story. The trains push the gravel deep into the wood
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brightspark
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dont forget sandvic saws as well .most joiners wouldnt know how to set an d sharpen a saw nowdays
Spark plug
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I'm a big fan of Spear and Jackson disposable saws IMO the best disposable saw around at the moment.
norlander
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you lost me there shox Dr (but thats not difficult for me
) so you have stopped using Distons and now use disposables but advise buying a Diston?Guessing you mean if working with decent material go for a Diston, if using iffy material get a throwaway?
Know what you mean about chipboard- (and OSB) -I used to mount the special TCT blades in my circ saws and they were fairly OK, used them with this
http://www.axminster.co.uk/trend-wax-blade-lubricant-343g specially when cutting the local oak here used it on my handsaws as well.Good for lubing woodscrews when driving into hardwood or long screws/coachbolts into sappy softwood.
And yes-wood can have allsorts in it-bought some oak from a stand of timber not so far away and on ripping it my mate said it seems to have some kind of mini copper piping in it and old cast iron brackets -I had a look- full copper jacket (MG42 at a guess) and mortar bomb fragmentation.
Found out local maquis/resistance had quite a few punch ups round here after D Day, house down the road has a false wall where the maquis/resistance hid-all from processing a tree.
I have a selection of old Diston saws, one was made in 1895 another in 1917, another is modern at 1936, they are good saws but i wouldnt dream of using them on chipboard or such materials. Thats where a hardpoint saw comes in. However a few years ago i tried a Vaughan bear saw, japanese style & cuts on the pull stroke. Replaceable blades. The accuracy, finish & speed of cut is so vastly superior to western saws that in my workshop my old Distons now languish in the toolbox.
bigegg
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I bought an oak burr at a farm auction (paid a fiver 
) a couple of years ago to make a coffee table and it had a scythe blade in it - probably 100+ yrs old?
Made a complete mess of the resaw blade on the bandsaw.
Ending up fitting a 28(?) TPI metal cutting blade (10sp bandsaw for wood or metal) to slice it up.
as to handsaws - I own a Disston I picked up at the car boot - don't use it often because I'm a bit of a "Norm" - kept sharp and oiled on my tool board/cabinet
I taught myself to sharpen it using you-tube.
The kids (all 20+ now) call it "jaws", cos it BITES.
I used to own a Stanley saw set with interchangeable blades - one (burgundy plastic) handle, and half a dozen different (sharpenable) blades - pad, rip, crosscut, tenon, gentleman's saws, plus a what I think was a pruning saw (same teeth as a pruning bowsaw).
Bit of a gimmick - six blades +one handle doesn't take that much more room than six separate saws (assuming you need to carry six), and the handle was very uncomfortable.
better off buying individual saws - with good handles! - IMO
) a couple of years ago to make a coffee table and it had a scythe blade in it - probably 100+ yrs old?Made a complete mess of the resaw blade on the bandsaw.
Ending up fitting a 28(?) TPI metal cutting blade (10sp bandsaw for wood or metal) to slice it up.
as to handsaws - I own a Disston I picked up at the car boot - don't use it often because I'm a bit of a "Norm" - kept sharp and oiled on my tool board/cabinet
I taught myself to sharpen it using you-tube.
The kids (all 20+ now) call it "jaws", cos it BITES.
I used to own a Stanley saw set with interchangeable blades - one (burgundy plastic) handle, and half a dozen different (sharpenable) blades - pad, rip, crosscut, tenon, gentleman's saws, plus a what I think was a pruning saw (same teeth as a pruning bowsaw).
Bit of a gimmick - six blades +one handle doesn't take that much more room than six separate saws (assuming you need to carry six), and the handle was very uncomfortable.
better off buying individual saws - with good handles! - IMO
simplysimon
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I have one of those hand held metal detector wand thingies for detecting ferrous in wood after seeing Norm Abram using one on the NYW it has paid for itself 10 times over in planer/thicknesser blades
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simplysimon
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its all in the Grand Plan I have set out, that would be No. 2 on the list... No. 1 being win the lotteryI bet you wish your workshop was as well equipped as his, I certainly do
