- Thread starter Geoffm
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All I can see when I read '' water based paint '' is magnolia emulsion .
And for that reason alone I keep looking till I find '' real paint'' the smelly stuff that wont wash off the brush with water ,, sod the planet , I dont like painting enough to do the railings with emulsion , when I see the Forth Road Bridge in Magnolia Ill have a rethink , till then ,,,,,,,,,,,,, wheres the turps.
Messing aside , I like hammerite but its a quick way of writing off a spray gun , and poluting a workshop for any other kind of painting as its full of silicone , If all you paint is hammerite though its great , I worked for a hydraulics company and we painted all out powerpacks with hammerite and with a touch of xylene thinners in the mix to slow the hardening a wee bit , you could get outrageously great finishes with little to no effort ,, and not much skill .
And for that reason alone I keep looking till I find '' real paint'' the smelly stuff that wont wash off the brush with water ,, sod the planet , I dont like painting enough to do the railings with emulsion , when I see the Forth Road Bridge in Magnolia Ill have a rethink , till then ,,,,,,,,,,,,, wheres the turps.
Messing aside , I like hammerite but its a quick way of writing off a spray gun , and poluting a workshop for any other kind of painting as its full of silicone , If all you paint is hammerite though its great , I worked for a hydraulics company and we painted all out powerpacks with hammerite and with a touch of xylene thinners in the mix to slow the hardening a wee bit , you could get outrageously great finishes with little to no effort ,, and not much skill .
It is for the horse float and various farm machinery. Mainly the smooth version
I have always used turps based paint in the past, but the water based paint dries in 4 hours so 2 coats per day is possible.
I had one tin of Benjamin Moore DTM "safety black" from a surplus paint emporium a few years ago. Water based, satin at best and tended to get more brush marks than the oil based paints but it did seem to last ok outside on scaffolding etc. When I tried to get some more, it was no longer available.
I have always used turps based paint in the past, but the water based paint dries in 4 hours so 2 coats per day is possible.
I had one tin of Benjamin Moore DTM "safety black" from a surplus paint emporium a few years ago. Water based, satin at best and tended to get more brush marks than the oil based paints but it did seem to last ok outside on scaffolding etc. When I tried to get some more, it was no longer available.
Ross365
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I quite like the "special metals" water-based paint that Hammerite do. I've used it on aluminium a good few times and satisfied that it bonds well and takes top coats nicely. One reservation is that it's hard to get a streak-free finish with it.... or maybe that's just me?
More generally, the solvent based paints they do are not nearly as good as the stuff they made in the past and I stay away from those.
More generally, the solvent based paints they do are not nearly as good as the stuff they made in the past and I stay away from those.
How is see it with “modern” water based paints ….
Original mixes of nasty but decent meant painting every so many years
Now water based crud , means painting every 5 minutes
Tried it on my windows at home and skirting , all looked tired and redoing within 2 year . Yet previously I used oil based and only needed very 3 to 5 years .
There really is no comparison , luckily my merchants still sell oil based if you ask .
Hammerite is crud now , just go to a commercial paint supplier and they will supply you with decent products , not the diy branches
Original mixes of nasty but decent meant painting every so many years
Now water based crud , means painting every 5 minutes
Tried it on my windows at home and skirting , all looked tired and redoing within 2 year . Yet previously I used oil based and only needed very 3 to 5 years .
There really is no comparison , luckily my merchants still sell oil based if you ask .
Hammerite is crud now , just go to a commercial paint supplier and they will supply you with decent products , not the diy branches
Morrisman
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A decade or more go I painted some car wheels with black Hammerite, and got slated, across the hot rod group I was on because it was the new paint formula and was rubbish and would chip and fall off and go rusty etc. It was type that requires proper thinners, not water, to wash brushes in etc.
3 years later, after driving 5000 miles, including winter weather, snow etc, still no sign of rust or ‘chips’.
I do sometimes wonder whether there is a ‘herd mentality’ on the interweb, and people mindlessly repeat things they hear as fact?
3 years later, after driving 5000 miles, including winter weather, snow etc, still no sign of rust or ‘chips’.
I do sometimes wonder whether there is a ‘herd mentality’ on the interweb, and people mindlessly repeat things they hear as fact?
brightspark
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ive allways used hamerite on all my machines or tools. pick it up cheap from autojumble and spray it on using celly thinners . its a good enamel . anything worthwhile i shot blast and use 2k etch primer 1st
Ross365
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There's no doubt that Hammerite used to make really good paint. I moved in to this house in '93 and the tank for the heating oil was rusted like crazy. I cleaned it down as best I could, painted it with Hammerite and have hardly seen any rust since. But that's the stuff they made ~30 years ago!
So the question remains.....what is it "really" best to use?
brightspark
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any enamel and a good etch primer if u want it to last. if its vehicles epoxy primer and 2k topcoat
ajlelectronics
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Epoxy primer is the ultimate answer, as always.
Oh sugar I have just ordered 5 litres of Blackfriar Red Oxide.
Where do you get large quantities and colour range of enamel as I can only see micro tubs on amazon.
brightspark
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smith and allen darlington they do postal service. use xylene thinners with it a real good hand painted or spray finish and fast drying
They don't do ral 6005 and sadly the only green they do is more eggshell blue
Strange thing is I think they might actually make it.
It says renamed to tractol...??
And I found tractol in 6005 on another site.
Ross365
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The term "red oxide" used to mean "red lead oxide" but now it just means the colour RED, which is meaningless.Oh sugar I have just ordered 5 litres of Blackfriar Red Oxide.
Personally, I am devoted to zinc phosphate primers, and have been for quite some time
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