hammerite paint

[tr4a]

hi
I am restoring my classic car which will take about 2 years to get to the painting stage. I am slowly cutting out the rusty bits then wielding in new, (panel beaten 1mm sheet metal) then lead loading it.
My question is can I use hammerite gloss paint to protect the bear metal from rust and then use celly paint over the top when I get to that stage? or is there an other option.
thanks in advance
steve

 

[brightspark]

hi
I am restoring my classic car which will take about 2 years to get to the painting stage. I am slowly cutting out the rusty bits then wielding in new, (panel beaten 1mm sheet metal) then lead loading it.
My question is can I use hammerite gloss paint to protect the bear metal from rust and then use celly paint over the top when I get to that stage? or is there an other option.
thanks in advance
steve

hamershites ok painting on machinery ect but your better of priming with epoxy 2k primer

 

[cresad67]

Hi

I'm like you and restore classics , I've used hammerite smooth in the past and had it react with celly later. The best soloution would be to put on a sealer coat as this is designed to stop the reaction between coats.

Adam

 

[eil]

Don't use hammerite if you are going to be using celly later, as Bs said some epoxy or Bonda prime is pretty good stuff.

 

[Chipper]

Epoxy does degrade in UV so depends how/where it's stored, and there's the 2k issues. E.g. my trailer was in bare epoxy and by 2 yrs was chalking up, but of course it does live in direct daylight.

 

[piman]

Hello all,

does anyone else think that Hammerite is now living on it's past name and is not as good as it was when Finnigans made it? The old paint had an instruction that recoating had to be done within a couple of hours before the reaction starts. It doesn't say that on the new Hammerite?

Alec

 

[ajlelectronics]

The answer to your question is POR-15.

Hammerite will chip off at the first stone impact and allow rust to fester underneath which you will not see until it all starts to fall to pieces. Overcoating will also be fraught.

 

[cumbriasteve]

I used to use hammerite on gates etc and in all honesty thought it was over rated, not performing any better than a good red oxide and quality gloss.

the comment about it chipping is true, it gave the impression it formed a hard shell but the adhesion was not great.

 

[Chickenjohn]

hi
I am restoring my classic car which will take about 2 years to get to the painting stage. I am slowly cutting out the rusty bits then wielding in new, (panel beaten 1mm sheet metal) then lead loading it.
My question is can I use hammerite gloss paint to protect the bear metal from rust and then use celly paint over the top when I get to that stage? or is there an other option.
thanks in advance
steve

No, Celly (and just about any other paint!) will react with hammerite.

On my longer term restoration projects, for the underside of the car as I repaired a section, that area would get zinc primed, then seam sealed, stonechip coated and finally chassis black. So none of the underside of the car was ever in bare metal for any period of time. As for upper body, panels etc the best solution I can see is to etch prime an area after you have bare metalled and repaired that area, when the etch is dry, to prevent absorbtion of moisture if the car will not be painted for many months, a very thin (barely more than a dust coat) coat of cheap paint such as satin black (acrylic or preferably cellulose) will prevent the steel rusting due to primer absorption of moisture from the air.

When ready to paint you can then sand off the matt black coat, the additional benefit being low areas needing filling/ more panel beating will be revealed.

This will protect from rust (if the car is kept indoors!)

 

[BeeJay99]

No, Celly (and just about any other paint!) will react with hammerite...

I know that Hammerite reacts even with itself if a second coat isn't applied very quickly after the first; If you don't do this you have to wait a very long time (6 weeks?) for the first coat to cure fully.

Does your comment apply to Hammerite that has been cured for a long while? I am asking because I have been given a base cabinet for my lathe and it was painted not particularly well with Hammerite Smooth in dark blue 3 to 5 years ago. It would be nice to paint it to match the lathe with cellulose and this warning has made me wonder if this is wise. Would I have to strip the Hammerite and if so how?

 

[brightspark]

Hello all,

does anyone else think that Hammerite is now living on it's past name and is not as good as it was when Finnigans made it? The old paint had an instruction that recoating had to be done within a couple of hours before the reaction starts. It doesn't say that on the new Hammerite?

Alec

as said above its not the same as the original stuff that had to be thinned with carbon tetrachloride bad stuff if u heated the room up with the vapours and an open gas fire . now banned. the modern hammerite is a good enamell coating but not direct onto bare or rusty metal. if it warrants the quality i 2k etch prime 1st then topcoat with the enamel giving a good result and hard wearing coat .if im not so bothered on large aerias or on engines i coat direct . this helps to look good easy to clean oil off and does stop further corosion. but as for coating a car with it dont bother

 

[Country Joe]

Piman said:-
Hello all,

does anyone else think that Hammerite is now living on it's past name and is not as good as it was when Finnigans made it? The old paint had an instruction that recoating had to be done within a couple of hours before the reaction starts. It doesn't say that on the new Hammerite?


piman,
Yes, I found the very same thing just recently. The old stuff said to do the second coat after 1-3 hrs, but the "New Rollable Formulation" says re-coat in 4-8 hrs, but I couldn't as it wasn't dry enough after 8 hours. Also you can only do 2 coats with the new stuff, while the old one recommends "several thin coats", which seemed to work well. Also, as BeeJay said, there's always that 6 week thing hanging over you too!
The newer one seems thicker somehow. Sort of makes the old stuff seem quicker & easier to apply, with a better finish.
I can only imagine the nightmares involved in trying to use a roller !
And one more thing - I'm sure the protection used to say 10 yrs, and not 5, as it is now!

I'll stop now.
CJ

PS Piman, you're on exactly 800 posts!

 

[the artfull-codger]

I personally don't believe that hammer5hite is the same formula as originall,since taken over, I used to send away to ''finnegans speciallity paints'' in prudhoe co. durham for it & as britespark says you used their own thinners for spraying on[much superior to brush painting] which was carbon tetrachloride based I also believe it to be brittle,o-k for tools/equipment etc as it looks good, apparently the smooth is fairly heat resistant,perhaps someone on here more knowledgable than me on the subject might care to comment on it, I would be most interested.

slan go fol.

 

[eil]

I know that Hammerite reacts even with itself if a second coat isn't applied very quickly after the first; If you don't do this you have to wait a very long time (6 weeks?) for the first coat to cure fully.

Does your comment apply to Hammerite that has been cured for a long while? I am asking because I have been given a base cabinet for my lathe and it was painted not particularly well with Hammerite Smooth in dark blue 3 to 5 years ago. It would be nice to paint it to match the lathe with cellulose and this warning has made me wonder if this is wise. Would I have to strip the Hammerite and if so how?

Give your base a wipe with some celly thinners on a rag, if it lifts you have the answer to how to remove it, was your lathe painted in cellulose originally ??.

 

[jaykay]

i've painted engine blocks with it.and hold up very well.
also for spraying i use celly thinners. that work too.and cheaper then hammerite thinners.

 

[the snooper]

i've painted engine blocks with it.and hold up very well.
also for spraying i use celly thinners. that work too.and cheaper then hammerite thinners.

celly thinners will thin just about anything

 

[the artfull-codger]

thanks jaykay, engine blocks get hot, I was thinking of spraying a steam engine smokebox & chimney with it, I'm with you on cellulose thinners snooper, I use it for just about everything, it's fecin gr8 stuff!!

slan go fol

 

[brightspark]

thanks jaykay, engine blocks get hot, I was thinking of spraying a steam engine smokebox & chimney with it, I'm with you on cellulose thinners snooper, I use it for just about everything, it's fecin gr8 stuff!!

slan go fol

i sandblasted my norton barels then sprayed with smooth hammerite .when the engine ran it stove enamelled it that was 5 years ago. and its still as good today

 

[the snooper]

i sandblasted my norton barels then sprayed with smooth hammerite .when the engine ran it stove enamelled it that was 5 years ago. and its still as good today

bet you had a job getting the pistons back in

 

[brightspark]

bet you had a job getting the pistons back in

HAW HAW YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
VERRY FUNNY i had to scrape em out and rub em smooth for the pistons to fit good one