just a reasonable tension without buckling the frame and straining the tensioner screwAgain,depends on make,what ya cutting,and how you cut it,i've always used sandvik blades they seem to take alot more of a battering then those cheap draper rubbish,i have 3 saws set up with different blades 1 18tpi,1 24tpi and 1 with 32tpi,i dont know is there an actual proper tension blades should be done up to?

just a reasonable tension without buckling the frame and straining the tensioner screw![]()
how do you correctly set the tension for the blade ? i no there is an adjuster but how do you no you have reached the correct tension
, then flick the blade at the side in the middle you should get a sonorous sound . Make one or two full bladed un forced cutting strokes across the metal the blade should not curve/twist or bow , if the tension is correct you will find the cutting easy , if it feels dull and dragging give the adjuster another half turn . If you have no more adjustment on the frame adjuster think of getting a decent new hacksaw rather than " springing the old one back into a workable shape ", as the frame will most likely have taken on a warp/twist and as such you will never enjoy using it for it will not cut true as well as you end up breaking blades.PS .
Do make sure you have the blade in the right way round .
And the right way up![]()

just looked at the lenox on google there the same as the sandvic 33 quidThe Lenox frames are good, I think mine is a 4012. You can get a serious amount of tension on the blade, mine came free with a hundred blades, I was using an eclipse frame and couldn't believe the difference the Lenox frame made.
look under page 3 tools and materials .under hacksaw blades theres a picture of 4 hacksaws the top ones the best![]()
snap so does mineIn fact my favorite hacksaw frame has to be my Rapidor, cuts perfectly straight every time and nice and easy to work.
bet u cant cut thin sheet steel with it though 


