hacksaw blades

[pidgeon chit welder]

Try using quality progressive hacksaw blades ... they have smaller teeth, set and teeth per inch at the front third of the blade than the back two thirds of the blade .

This allows for easy starting cuts and there is also a better swarf clearance only use them in forward motion . " 12 inch Kerenos " used to be an excellent make and cost nearly a pound a blade 15 years ago .

One of the biggest probs is these Chinese blades that go PING and a couple of teeth come off near the middle of the blade .

There is an art to using an hacksaw, the blade needs to be correctly tensioned ( slacken it off when you have finished cutting ofr the frame is likly to distort )..use full strokes continuously in contact with the material to be cut and don't put a lot of pressure on the blade ..let the blade do the work , don't cut faster than say 12 strokes a minute .

Lubrication is rarely needed , thin wall metals need lots of TPI. teeth per inch, soft metals need coarse cuts with less TPI and steel should be the mid to thin wall range

 

[jugs]

I rarely find myself using a hacksaw, when i do, 95% of the time its in an awkward place where you can't really use it properly.

Or in them mini frames where the blade pokes out for tight access areas.
A bit of flexibility is usefull to me

It's not just the blades, a good quality frame helps a lot, they tried some cheap frames at work, absolutely useless, just would not hold the blade tight or straight. At least I could blame the tools when a straight cut ended up at 45° !!!!

Reverse the blade so the teeth face you & cut on the pull stroke, that way the blade is allways in tension when cutting (even if slack in the frame or used in a padsaw handel). No jamming, no ripping teeth out & - A straight line every time

I was told this technique as an apprentice toolmaker 45yrs ago, & cant remember the last time I broke a blade. Will seem a bit odd @ first but after a few try's it becomes natural.

As stated by series2 above, there should allways be a minimum of 3 teeth in contact with material at any time.

 

[hareng]

I'll just add my view that we only tend to use the Eclipse at work and have noticed they have really gone down the pan the last 18 months. Dont last 5 mins, no pun, they used to last on equivalent 20 times longer.
Two years ago we used 1 blade a week, now on two a day, thats the difference, perhaps made in asia some where?
Even had them painted over thick rust.

As above min 3 teeth on what is being cut.
Just cant get decent files or hack saw blades any longer.

 

[brightspark]

I'll just add my view that we only tend to use the Eclipse at work and have noticed they have really gone down the pan the last 18 months. Dont last 5 mins, no pun, they used to last on equivalent 20 times longer.
Two years ago we used 1 blade a week, now on two a day, thats the difference, perhaps made in asia some where?
Even had them painted over thick rust.

As above min 3 teeth on what is being cut.
Just cant get decent files or hack saw blades any longer.

heres a few pictures of hacksaw frames. the 2 0n the top are good quality frames one is sandvic the other eclipse made with box section steel with alumiium ends ergonomicaly designed .the 2 underneath are old eclipse frames verry flimsy twist easily making it dificult the cut in a strait line . a good file to use are bedford chrome steel ones made in sheffield if u can get hold of any

 

[graffian]

The one I have found best is this one.

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

Strangely enough the old P shaped framed ones with a wooden handle was perhaps the best hacksaw I have ever used .

I'd love to get one at a carboot sale and bin this Sandvik one I have >