just wanted to check, I have epoxy prime red then high build and just about to base coat. I have blocked higher build with 240, 320 and then 500 grit. Is this a high enough grit to remove sanding scratches? Plan is to basecoat with solid black then once tacked off move straight to 3 coats of max Meyer 200 clear. Anything I'm missing?
- Thread starter Rabs
- Start date
Thanks for all the help, appreciate the advice. It saves making a lot of mistakes whilst learning. I will get round the garage tonight and sand with some 800. Will also not go to heavy on first colour coat.
Thought I would share some photos of how I'm getting on so far. Had rust in both sides of the scuttle where the windscreen meets the scuttle. I cut rusted metal out, made some repair patches then welded them in. Small amount of fibreglass filler, then 3 coats of epoxy primer, then skim of upol fantastic, further coat of epoxy primer, 3 coats of lechlar high build, block so far to 500 grit. Will do 800 grit tonight.
Took wings off as they are known to rust where wings meet chassis and luckily only surface rust. Ground that back and treated, plan to stonechip inside wings. Hopefully this should protect for a few more years.
Concerned about trying to blend into a pillars but hoping that with solid black I might have more success. Have some blending thinners for clear and plan to use on the a pillar where I will do my blend. Any advice most appreciated?
Thought I would share some photos of how I'm getting on so far. Had rust in both sides of the scuttle where the windscreen meets the scuttle. I cut rusted metal out, made some repair patches then welded them in. Small amount of fibreglass filler, then 3 coats of epoxy primer, then skim of upol fantastic, further coat of epoxy primer, 3 coats of lechlar high build, block so far to 500 grit. Will do 800 grit tonight.
Took wings off as they are known to rust where wings meet chassis and luckily only surface rust. Ground that back and treated, plan to stonechip inside wings. Hopefully this should protect for a few more years.
Concerned about trying to blend into a pillars but hoping that with solid black I might have more success. Have some blending thinners for clear and plan to use on the a pillar where I will do my blend. Any advice most appreciated?
steveo3002
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black is the worst to blend
all i can say is try to control the gun so that the edge stays on the narrow part of the pillar and doesnt creep onto the roof
do you know how to prep the blend area
all i can say is try to control the gun so that the edge stays on the narrow part of the pillar and doesnt creep onto the roof
do you know how to prep the blend area
langy
langys rodshop
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Solid colour is straight paint, basecoat is basecoat bud
Plan was to use a cutting compound and grey scotch on the blend area then when I mask I will create a tunnel on the a pillar and use the fade out thinners on that area. This seems to be in line with the advice from norsa but I'm all ears.....like I say I'm learning as I go and appreciate the advice. Thanks
steveo3002
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yeah sounds about right
make sure the clear is going onto keyyed paint
maybe use the tunnel method , but when youre done with the last coat pull off the masking and then creep up the pillar with the clear trying to keep it on the narrow part
now some people go straight on with the thinners , others thin the clear and go a little further with the thinned clear then thinners that
make sure the clear is going onto keyyed paint
maybe use the tunnel method , but when youre done with the last coat pull off the masking and then creep up the pillar with the clear trying to keep it on the narrow part
now some people go straight on with the thinners , others thin the clear and go a little further with the thinned clear then thinners that
norsa
old school painter
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Its a thing to practice and whilst its an ideal method to blend metalics in to adjacent panels where there is lots of room to lose the hard edge, with practice you can use it to some effect in confined areas. The problem you have is that the basecoat will probably go to the top of the A pillar so your clear may have to reach the roof. As steveo said keep control of your basecoat but dont mask off any part of the fade area to do so. Are you aware your fade out thinner is only used on the laquer ? (shiney coat).
Yep only plan to use fade out thinner for the laquer, but thank you for checking. Cheers. Will finish masking up tomorrow then plan to paint on Thursday. Will post results over the weekend!!
steveo3002
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if you fear getting near the roof with the blend , you can always carefully basecoat the pillar at low pressure to keep it local , get it covered then mask up with the tube idea
clear coat the scuttle keeping away from the top of the pillar then once its done tickle some clear on the pillars , that way you shouldnt get loads of overspray onto the roof , if you keep the edge on the narrow part it shouldnt show too bad even it it goes a bit wrong
once youve done it , let it sit a few weeks as polishing before its hard will ruin it
clear coat the scuttle keeping away from the top of the pillar then once its done tickle some clear on the pillars , that way you shouldnt get loads of overspray onto the roof , if you keep the edge on the narrow part it shouldnt show too bad even it it goes a bit wrong
once youve done it , let it sit a few weeks as polishing before its hard will ruin it
Managed to get off work early and get to it
Happy with a blend on the passenger a pillar but not to happy with drivers side.
A couple of tiny flies decided to commit suicide also!! How long do I need to leave the paint to cure before I denib?
What are my options re the drivers side blend? Shall I just wait until paint fully cured and then compound to see what it comes up like?
Some more photos
Happy with a blend on the passenger a pillar but not to happy with drivers side.
A couple of tiny flies decided to commit suicide also!! How long do I need to leave the paint to cure before I denib?
What are my options re the drivers side blend? Shall I just wait until paint fully cured and then compound to see what it comes up like?
Some more photos
steveo3002
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you can denib and polish the main part after say 36 hrs
id leave the blend area a couple of weeks or as long as you can , and use a mild polish not compound , i use 3m finnese it
if its still ugly then report back....id guess you would need to sand it flat without going through then dust clear over the edge and thinners it in again
id leave the blend area a couple of weeks or as long as you can , and use a mild polish not compound , i use 3m finnese it
if its still ugly then report back....id guess you would need to sand it flat without going through then dust clear over the edge and thinners it in again
steveo3002
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for the windscreen pillar , instead of taping a straight line for the paint to end , he has made a hooped up sheet of paper to create a small tunnel so that it doesnt touch the panel , with the hopes that the paint will not form a hard edge
