When the apprentice run the forklift into the main air incomer to our baghouse just below the shut off valve he shut the whole plant down, a big bar too pull it straight and 2 rolls of denso kept it operational till we had time for a full shut !
I recently found that the " Bostic Bitumen roof repair material with reinforcing fibres ( £ 25 ish for 5 litres B&Q ) works well applied to any wet or dry surface that is free of crud & loose material .
Pipe & joints not under any great pressure just a few inches of water head in it .
On a pipe if you can secure brace the pipe to stop movement , then apply the first coating then try wrapping a cotton muslin bandage over the first coating . Two hrs later recoat it , pop another bandage over it & give it a final recoat .
If repairing a leaky wriggly tin roof power wash it off to remove any crud or loose matter . Dab it reasonably dry if you can then apply the sealerwith a throw away piece of thin ply , thick plastic or thick etc. card
For the badage I used a cut to sixe patch fine insect garden mesh made of black Kevlar and stippled it into the first coat . Two hrs. later brushed on the second coat ...
It worked only problem was the mancupboard being flooded by 2.5 inch deep flooding ground water coming down the hill like a mini Tsunami and coming up through a previously drilled 19 mm floor drain hole in the lowest corner of the garage.
Major engineering works with a 9 inch disc cutter & light duty SDS demo hammer about to start in a few minutes ..... to cut a four inch wide 12" deep channel outside across the back of the garages concreted area and chop the trench into a 100 mm perforated land drain bottle .