- Thread starter sako243
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Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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Use porcelain or quarry tiles. I stuck concrete ridge tiles to a slate roof on my workshop and cabin with Stixall about 15 years ago, and its still absolutely fine.
Roof gets really hot in summer sun, so I would not hesitate to use Stixall or one of the other polymer adhesives, rather than proper tile adhesive. Use it for "grouting" them too.
Roof gets really hot in summer sun, so I would not hesitate to use Stixall or one of the other polymer adhesives, rather than proper tile adhesive. Use it for "grouting" them too.
sako243
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Not had any luck finding any thinner than timber decking and my experience of composite stuff is it's pretty dire and floppy.
Leaning towards @Pete. and @8ob's suggestion of shuttering in some concrete. The door is unlikely to be open when it's wet as my desk is/will be right next to it so that's less of an issue.
Leaning towards @Pete. and @8ob's suggestion of shuttering in some concrete. The door is unlikely to be open when it's wet as my desk is/will be right next to it so that's less of an issue.
I think you're already talking about adding the equivalent of joists (even welding some thick bar across would prob do in lieu of joists for the widths your talking?). Normal widths and the composite stuff is fine. I can't see that DIY casting a heavy slab of concrete up there is going to be a good idea personally!
sako243
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The point is those would be within the steel structure. Find me some decking composite or timber that's less than 20mm thick and we're onto a winner (that's the absolute maximum as that's the front lip of the door cill). I don't want to be planing down lengths to reduce them.
In fact a floated concrete floor would do thinking about it, why bother even tiling it
Not composite but there's stuff out there.The point is those would be within the steel structure. Find me some decking composite or timber that's less than 20mm thick and we're onto a winner (that's the absolute maximum as that's the front lip of the door cill). I don't want to be planing down lengths to reduce them.
In fact a floated concrete floor would do thinking about it, why bother even tiling it
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gaz1
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the mistake has been done you either use what you can or you take apart what you have builtThe point is those would be within the steel structure. Find me some decking composite or timber that's less than 20mm thick and we're onto a winner (that's the absolute maximum as that's the front lip of the door cill). I don't want to be planing down lengths to reduce them.
In fact a floated concrete floor would do thinking about it, why bother even tiling it
its either you go for the doorframe or you go for the platform itself thats to make it higher or lower
if you dont want to mess with that the simple method is grp platform and yes it can attach to metal
concrete method you have the heavy issue to deal with even if you make a 3" concrete platform
decking you could get away with sinking the decking level with the steel framing but you will see the middle 2 girders and will be able to stand on them the outer sides you will be fastening the handrails too the girders
you can go lower with tiles and stone flags between the framing
there is the old way but your still dealing with thickness
angellonewolf
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That sounds good thin enought to do the job no standing water to deal with and will last years
Not so ideal for dogs feet though..
angellonewolf
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I'm sure you could get more smaller holes in the grate that would be more suitable
sako243
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@gaz1 I fully admit that what we've got was a mistake. There is zero option for us to undo what we've got, it's sunk into the wall and all the stonework has been redone around it, as is the stupidly expensive door frame in situ etc. It's tied into the roof, concreted and bolted into the wall. The only thing that might be possible is torching off the top flange of the I beams and rewelding those lower but at that point I'll just slap some chequer plate over it and carpet it.
