glazed porch cover

[blacksmithstris]

I am making a glazed porch awning for some customers to match the gate I made for them last year, so back to cutting and welding and grinding for this one, been a while since I've done anything architectural and I'm remembering why I love doing sculpture (where holes don't have to line up etc!)

Having never made anything like this before I've been flailing around with how to make the glazed panel section, I spoke to a glazer and he said just make a rebate section, he is going to cut the panels and have them toughened. I thought about using angle but even the smallest angle i can get 13x13 would be too deep for the 6mm glass, so I am using some 3x16 mm flat for the backing of the rebate and 8mm square for the edging, not sure if I"m approaching it the right way, certainly have my work cut out for me and been standing around staring at it quite a lot... I tacked all the backing panels together so I could make sure it all fit together properly.. am kind of winging it a little, out of comfort zone!!! Any suggestions that might help gratefully received

Making the top separate to the brackets, just for ease of installation really, not that that is going to be easy at all!!!!

 

[Windy Miller]

Nice job!

 

[steve t]

cant offer much advice but youll get there in the end then youll forget all the head scratching and pain and get the satisfied feeling you get when a job like this is finished. I presume from your user name you made the scrolls yourself, nice work, so much better than bought in components.

 

[blacksmithstris]

Thanks Guys,

Yes, this job is more fabrication than smithing, and yes, the scrolls were formed hot. Got the brackets somewhat welded together today, still some more bits to add to them, and still working out the fine details of the top

 

[Kent]

from what I read I think you are thinking the panels will just sit down into the angles? Wind will lift them and water will find is way in. what you might need to do is think top capping more than rebate? heck this is hard to explain go look at how conservatory roofs work as an assembly and all will become clear. What I am saying is its not the rebate depth you need worry over its the gap between the top capping and the bottom of the rebate.

if you don't get this I will post a sketch

 

[blacksmithstris]

I get what you are saying I think... the glazer said he would putty the glass panels in, do you not think that would be sufficient? I was also worried about the water ingress, unit will be galv'd and painted, but last thing I want is water leaking through. I really would like to see a sketch though of how it could be achieved, like I said, never done this before so really appreciate input. Thanks

 

[Kent]

ok will do. Frankly I think it will leak the way your glazer suggests. warning have had a few

 

[blacksmithstris]

I'm all ears! especially if there is a better way!!!

 

[brightspark]

silicone them in

 

[Kent]

might be a glaring omission or mistake here and I blame it all on a case of some great French wine!

 

[Kent]

You wont stop water finding a route passed anything so give it an easy way out over the frame and stop it getting in. BTW having done more than an odd proper conservatory and porch in the past heavy rainfall always makes the phone ring with remedials

 

[blacksmithstris]

ugh. right... ? ok, well, this is the reason why i was getting an external glazer in to do that bit.. i really don't want call backs... I think I can see another plan coming along.. :/

 

[Kent]

What it going to be acceptable to the client? I should have that conversation. I now notice in my more normal state its an open porch (no sides ) actually a canopy roof? So I shouldn't stress yourself over an odd dripping leak

 

[blacksmithstris]

lol Kent, yes, it's just to go over a doorway, and not enclosed, but I don't think they would find it acceptable for it to leak...

 

[octo0072000]

use sickaflex or tigerseal to seal them in they wont come out or leak