Gasgacinch or other gasket sealers

[gasket999]

Howdo.

I'm reassembling my old car following an exhaustive process of reconditioning every component.

Traditionally, leaks have been part of life when running a classic car but I'd like to employ some "best practice" to try and keep leaks to a minimum.

Carefully applied, high-quality paper gaskets onto a clean, 'true' surface with a light smear of grease is the "correct" way of assembling it - I've always done this on my other cars but still get the occasional leak.

Some people replace this with instant gasket, like Blue Halomar, or some even use a combination of paper gasket and instant gasket - neither of these options appeal to me.

However...... in the US, it is common to use a gasket 'sealer' - which works in parallel with the paper gasket. A traditional one in use over there is Gasgacinch Gasket Sealer, another more modern solution is Permatex. I really like the idea of using such a sealer during assembly of my engine (on paper gaskets only, such as timing cover and sump) as well as on diff and hub gaskets.

Has anyone any experience with similar products?

Many thanks in advance.

PS the Gasgacinch isn't dear, see here

 

[madkayaker]

Well is it a landrover? I used new paper gaskets on clean surfaces with blue hylermol on each surface and it still leaked! So gave up with that and used lock tight instant gasket (black stuff) and that seams to have done the trick

 

[madkayaker]

This is the one http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_173106_langId_-1_categoryId_255217

And the metal thing isn't to clean the end out as one review says its to turn the tube like toothpaste to get the stuff out!

 

[gasket999]

Cheers for that mate, hadn't seen that product before I'll gave a look.

 

[madkayaker]

seams to have fixed the leak on the transfer box and steering replay box. i had hoped that the engine leak was from the sump but its looking more like rear crankcase oil seal

 

[mm289]

I rebuild a few VW engines and the cases and heads (on the Wasserboxers) need a sealant as they don't have gaskets as such.

Most of the engine builders use one of Victor Reinz Reinzosil, Curil K2 or Curil T.

I have found Reinzosil to be really good and are far better than Blue Hylomar and other silicon sealants (RTV) based.

Seems most RTV are aerobic sealants i.e. need air to set so on a machined surface or tight fit they don't go off and can then find their way into oil passages etc.

Reinzosil is anaerobic and goes of even after bolting down.

Try it next time and see how you get on.

Cheers,

MM