KemppiFrog
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If that was a stick welder under your nice tig
, you could run some stitches under the top plate, as that is the most likely part to distort.
- Thread starter Pearny
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, you could run some stitches under the top plate, as that is the most likely part to distort.
gaz1
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well you have to cut your bottom open anyway so you can install an ash tray underneath so will give you better access to weld up thereIf that was a stick welder under your nice tig
only need 4-5" opening down the length and insert a grill over the opening
also 2 1/2" - 3" gap for the top plate 5mm-6mm thick for your flue gasses to return back to the rear of the system where your flue is will give enough clearance for flue gasses to escape up the chimney
In my two stoves I have a plate of stainless steel over the grid as I only burn wood. You don't need or want air from underneath with wood, it will burn out too quick. As I have the stainless plates in, it renders the ash pans useless. I have little trouble cleaning the ash out, maybe once a month, with a small shovel. We use the stoves every evening. I find if I use firelighters and not newspaper I get very little ash.
Actually had to do some work today so not loads of progress. I did make the inlet for the air wash above the door, I cut the hole previously. Not sure if it needs anything on the front with some holes as more of a restriction. What do you guys think? Maybe just wait and see how it goes and if required add it later?
Also made a start on the door. Will need to shape the edges of the door to match the cylinder. Next will be adding some sort of primary air inlet and the glass apature.
Also made a start on the door. Will need to shape the edges of the door to match the cylinder. Next will be adding some sort of primary air inlet and the glass apature.
gaz1
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i prefer the inlet below the door for the air wash
this then goes up the sides of the stove door so keeps the sides cooler then is allowed to be jetted or via thin slit aimed towards the glass
because its below theres less chance of smoke being blown back and as theres a lift of preheated air its sort of better
just more work advantage it dosnt affect the door hinges as much
you can also control the airwash system better and make it even hotter against the glass
as goes for the door yours is ok for an outside stove but not internal its far easier to seal onto a bar than it is on a flat plate
this then goes up the sides of the stove door so keeps the sides cooler then is allowed to be jetted or via thin slit aimed towards the glass
because its below theres less chance of smoke being blown back and as theres a lift of preheated air its sort of better
just more work advantage it dosnt affect the door hinges as much
you can also control the airwash system better and make it even hotter against the glass
as goes for the door yours is ok for an outside stove but not internal its far easier to seal onto a bar than it is on a flat plate
Ok, as with most of this I wasn't sure, I thought the air over the glass was supposed to be cool air hence coming from the top to wash down. Maybe MK2 will do it the other way. The door seal will hopefully be like your last pic once iv finished. When you say a bar, do you mean the bit on the stove itself? If so I could add a narrow piece on the front for the door seal to land on.
Thanks for the tips @gaz1
Thanks for the tips @gaz1
waddycall
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Id be tempted to stitch weld something like 10x3 flat bar on edge to the front of the stove. You could pull bends for the corners. This will dig into the rope and create a good seal. Obviously you’d need to make sure it’s a tight fit to the front plate and put enough weld on to hold it without overheating and distorting it.
Hot air wash is better as cold air will chill the flames/gasses which will not promote full combustion of the fuel. Don’t worry too much though. I used to design woodburners for a major uk manufacturer. Most of theirs didn’t have preheated secondary air for many many years. Secondary air isn’t the be all and end all - good mixing of gasified fuel and air is.
Hot air wash is better as cold air will chill the flames/gasses which will not promote full combustion of the fuel. Don’t worry too much though. I used to design woodburners for a major uk manufacturer. Most of theirs didn’t have preheated secondary air for many many years. Secondary air isn’t the be all and end all - good mixing of gasified fuel and air is.
MattF
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may i ask what welder are you using ?
heres some of my builds
View attachment 323567View attachment 323568View attachment 323569
Dailymotion
www.dailymotion.com
What were you saying about welds?
gaz1
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thats when i first startedWhat were you saying about welds?
just to show how a flat plate to a sealed door looks like
a brand new stove fired correctly before install
the door is adjusted when cold and shows a good seal but when fired the gap opened as shown above
Onthespotwelding
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Looking good it will keep you nice and toastie
Finally got some more time on the stove today.
Added some steel to the front aperture to press onto the rope seal in the door.
Added some hinges, these need some finishing but are nearly there. Also fitted the glass to the front.
Got to weld the top on and work out how to do the latch for the door. If anyone has any ideas for the latch I'm not sure how best to do this.
Added some steel to the front aperture to press onto the rope seal in the door.
Added some hinges, these need some finishing but are nearly there. Also fitted the glass to the front.
Got to weld the top on and work out how to do the latch for the door. If anyone has any ideas for the latch I'm not sure how best to do this.
Screwdriver
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Well it definitely has a "look" to it. Nice work. I like the proportions.
Looks like you also installed some stove tech too. Can't wait to see it fire up.
Looks like you also installed some stove tech too. Can't wait to see it fire up.
Thank you, I am looking forward to it too! I have been dragging my heels somewhat!!Well it definitely has a "look" to it. Nice work. I like the proportions.
Looks like you also installed some stove tech too. Can't wait to see it fire up.
Screwdriver
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No worries, be ready in time for a record summer….
As for the latch, nothing whimsical please!
looks like a well thought out practical beast, I’d be looking at some sort of ramp on the latch. Something that grips it but then pushes it firmly against the rope seal. Sort of a cam against a stub for example. Wire spring handles or maybe even a nice solid wood handle like a chisel perhaps.
Don’t use an actual chisel of course. That WOULD be whimsical…
Although now I come to think about it….
As for the latch, nothing whimsical please!
looks like a well thought out practical beast, I’d be looking at some sort of ramp on the latch. Something that grips it but then pushes it firmly against the rope seal. Sort of a cam against a stub for example. Wire spring handles or maybe even a nice solid wood handle like a chisel perhaps.
Don’t use an actual chisel of course. That WOULD be whimsical…
Although now I come to think about it….
