Insulation is allways good, but to say the heater is causing damp is pushing it a bit. Stop the moist air blowing in, run a dehumidifier and you'll have no more problems. I run mine all winter, its cured the dripping miller and lathe, rusty blocks etc.
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gaz1
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it is when its hitting the cold roofing felt on the roof this forms droplets on the roofing felt get enough droplets it will either drip or run to somewhere
so yes it can cause it
premmington
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Dehumidifier is the plan if you can seal the building.
We just can't in car repair workshop - the roller shutter door is always open.
Trying to remove the moisture from the whole planet with one little Ebac - just is not gonna work.
You would be shocked thou how good a big 24" or 36" fan - for drying up a workshop is in use.
I think such a large volume of air - causes an equal temp inside and out and prevents condensation?
There will be someone on here - who deals with "air handling systems" for swimming pools and the like - who will have a better idea of what is needed and why!
We just can't in car repair workshop - the roller shutter door is always open.
Trying to remove the moisture from the whole planet with one little Ebac - just is not gonna work.
You would be shocked thou how good a big 24" or 36" fan - for drying up a workshop is in use.
I think such a large volume of air - causes an equal temp inside and out and prevents condensation?
There will be someone on here - who deals with "air handling systems" for swimming pools and the like - who will have a better idea of what is needed and why!
I disagree, the droplets is a symptom of too much moisture in the air - remove the moisture and the problem goes away. The op has a domestic garage - it's a long way from a car repair workshop in both type of use and size. My own workshop is two 20 feet by 30 side by side, and the dehumidifier works well, sure it costs a bit to run but without it my machines and tools and anything else would be dripping wet by the morning.
Morrisman
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Sometimes I go out to my garage and find it’s colder inside than out, all concrete construction, and if I then leave the door open everything inside is wet in a few minutes. Warm damp air hitting cold surfaces.
The idea that ‘ventilation’ will cure all damp issues is pretty false. Stopping temperature differential on surfaces is the answer, but that can be pretty hard in a garage where the door has to open regularly.
I have a small electric fan heater in my place, and I wear two pairs of overalls and a woolly hat. The heater only goes on when I can see my breath in front of me.
IMHO, a dehumidifier is not the greatest idea
I'm working with wood and making it wet or very dry isn't what I'd like to see
I'd go for a garage fan and a ventilation system, so the air wouldn't "stuck" in your garage
I'm working with wood and making it wet or very dry isn't what I'd like to see
I'd go for a garage fan and a ventilation system, so the air wouldn't "stuck" in your garage
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mtt.tr
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I would certainly ventilate roof space might be easiest to use the roof mounted vents.
@roofman will know what's best
The single skin wall i would install stud work leaving an air gap between the stud brick and put in air bricks
Between the cavity and the stud attached to back of stud i would put in plastic membrane only because you dont want a big cavity as it will swallow space
Then in the stud work celotex and finish the top with double 9mm ply allows easy hanging on the walls then top of with plasterboard but make siret its properly taped and jointed to reduce fire risk in cavity
And use intrumescent mastic along the top and bottom
@roofman will know what's best
The single skin wall i would install stud work leaving an air gap between the stud brick and put in air bricks
Between the cavity and the stud attached to back of stud i would put in plastic membrane only because you dont want a big cavity as it will swallow space
Then in the stud work celotex and finish the top with double 9mm ply allows easy hanging on the walls then top of with plasterboard but make siret its properly taped and jointed to reduce fire risk in cavity
And use intrumescent mastic along the top and bottom
Fair enough if you work with wood. If you have big heavy iron machines they will rust. Dehumidifier is the only answer, but of course it depends on your climate. Toronto is probably a little different to West Wales...
My workshop is a standard concrete panel garage about 40 sq m, It wasnt insulated & was dreadfully damp. I insulated the walls & roof with 35mm reject kingspan & it was a lot better.
Just re roofed it completely with insulated steel & upgraded the gable ends with 75mm cos i got some out of a skip, doors have been insulated now & it is toasty warm & dry inside. One small oil filled rad on low is all it needs to keep at a nice even temperature.
looking forward to the winter!
Just re roofed it completely with insulated steel & upgraded the gable ends with 75mm cos i got some out of a skip, doors have been insulated now & it is toasty warm & dry inside. One small oil filled rad on low is all it needs to keep at a nice even temperature.
looking forward to the winter!
Newlands
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Got to agree with Keith66 - it’s insulation that is going to make the difference, especially the Kingspan plus insulated steel sheeting that he used as it is also a vapour barrier. I also agree with the other poster who recommends a water-resistant render on the outside of the brickwork. Stop the moisture getting in, and stop damp air condensing on cold inside surfaces and you won’t need a dehumidifier. The diesel heater can then do its job properly, and you’ll probably find that it only needs to run on tickover.
DAPPH
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Even if it is open roof void putting in a gable end 8 inch fixed louvre vent at both ends will allow air movement through the building so anything that has sweated gets dried off . Over the years I've found a lot of garage floors do not have a WPM & in a lot of cased nor a damp proof course , the brick/block work is slapped right on the cast floor slab so loads of moisture creeps in between the slab & the walls & through the floor .
The garage in this place has a dpc laid straight on top of the slab ther is loads of places whe water can collect as the slab is 1/2" or more in places protuding out of the foot print with the walls being built on top of it . It was always damp even with the 8 inch air venting put in . So I painted a B&Q roofing bitumen with fibres in it repair gunge , giving it two coats 48 hrs. apart , three inches up the wall & three inches out from the wall . Now it only get a bit of wet just under he roller door seal when there is a hard southerly blown storm .
When my new mancupboard is constructed (
June next year ? ) the whole floor to walls will not only have a waterproof membrane under it all I will be sealing the inside floor right on to the fibre glass skirt walling which will be Silkaflex (SP?) mastic bonded & bolted to the slab .If I could stop the foggy mush blowing into my workshop I wouldn't need a dehumidifier, but to be honest, that would mean ripping off the whole asbestos sheet roof(s) (cos there's two of them) and sealing the doors 100%. The floors are dry asa bone, walls also since they are 9 inch hollows.
Living on top of a West Atlantic facing hill may be good for not flooding, but it comes at a price..
Actually, I'm not so sure it would not be needed even then - the air will still be moisture laden, and the metal will be cold, so I'd still get condensation on it?
Living on top of a West Atlantic facing hill may be good for not flooding, but it comes at a price..
Actually, I'm not so sure it would not be needed even then - the air will still be moisture laden, and the metal will be cold, so I'd still get condensation on it?
Gareth J
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I greatly reduced the blown fog issue in mine by foaming up under the edges of the corrugated tin on my shed and putting a much better sealing door on the west facing gable end.
Kept the holes in the apex roof caps so not totally sealed but stopped much of the indoor fog.
Might help similarly with asbestos sheets
