Garage Door Lock

[Onoff]

I'm after an "old school" garage door lock for a home made timber, up and over door.

The type that puts the opening/closing handle at about waist height, then with a long rod that goes into a hole drilled in the ground. (Yes, I know the hole will need to keep being cleaned out).

I'm really struggling trying to find anything other than high security, "strong arm" types where the user has to bend to reach the floor.

Any ideas?

Cheers

 

[Morrisman]

Is that the one that goes in the middle of the door and twists, pulling/pushing rods to actuate locks?I bought a new one from a local lock shop a few years ago, can't remember the name, but it wasn't hard to find.

Maybe here: https://www.garagedoorpartsuk.co.uk/locks-and-handles/

 

[Onoff]

Is that the one that goes in the middle of the door and twists, pulling/pushing rods to actuate locks?I bought a new one from a local lock shop a few years ago, can't remember the name, but it wasn't hard to find.

Maybe here: https://www.garagedoorpartsuk.co.uk/locks-and-handles/

Thanks but I'm not seeing it there. The rod that goes into the ground was about 3' long on the one I'm thinking of.

 

[James1979]

The 3’ bit I would call a drop bolt but if I’m reading it right it’s operated by a twisting handle?

Never seen one like that.

 

[Morrisman]

Thanks but I'm not seeing it there. The rod that goes into the ground was about 3' long on the one I'm thinking of.

The one I bought had the butterfly thing with two holes in on the inside of the door, with plain steel flat bars running to each side of the door, I made my own from B&Q steel bar. You could run one up, one down, it would work the same. You'd need a guide at the edges of the door too.

 

[voipio]

We had a Cardale lock, with a three pronged plastic "spider" on the back of the lock mechanism, to operate sprung catches on the sides and top of the door, using three cables looped onto the spider. A sprung catch couild equally be fitted to the bottom of the door.

 

[Onoff]

The one I bought had the butterfly thing with two holes in on the inside of the door, with plain steel flat bars running to each side of the door, I made my own from B&Q steel bar. You could run one up, one down, it would work the same. You'd need a guide at the edges of the door too.

View attachment 368387

Gotcha! For some reason I thought I could buy as a kit.

 

[gaz1]

im aware of another type similar to what your thinking of

rack and pinion lock

rack and pinion garage door lock - Google Search

however you can make better using the winder of a car window

 

[Anguz]

if you are making your own innards, you are better off with the lock at the back too... those t type handles dont take a lot to force

 

[Onoff]

if you are making your own innards, you are better off with the lock at the back too... those t type handles done take a lot to force

There's bugger all in said garage tbh. Just really to deter opportunistic kids.

 

[Anguz]

There's bugger all in said garage tbh. Just really to deter opportunistic kids.

then you need to buy more toys.... criminal to have storage space without toys in it

 

[gaz1]

to be honest with you your better off with the 4 lock mech

2 locks at top and 2 locks near the bottom of the door as they are more secure than your long bar method as there is movement and allows access to the bars under the door

 

[Onoff]

then you need to buy more toys.... criminal to have storage space without toys in it

Not my garage!

 

[cheb]

Searching for espagnolette bolt may be useful.

 

[Kram]

Mine has the handle type shown above, not much good works on the concrete side pillars, but its an adequate handle for opening.
Kids once smashed the door and bent it enough to start opening before a neighbour scared them away.

For locking we use Enfield garage locks off ebay.. this sort of thing
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Schlosser-Technik-Enfield-Garage-Bolts/dp/B075QHDK29/
Best if they are into the floor, so yes you need to crouch down to unlock first.

You could stick an enfield type bolt higher up and weld/braze a longer rod onto the end, add some guides in the door to support it.