Garage door ideas ?

[mrfennerg]

Hi all

My up and over door on my single garage is on its last legs, and I'm thinking of building a replacement frame/doors myself. The garage is down the side of my house so while it needs to be reasonably secure, I don't need to go crazy on it, but I have motorcycles so it needs to be pretty substantial. I fancy twin doors, one for everyday access, and the other to open when I need to get my bike out.

I'm struggling to know where to start, things like ... frame steel size, door frame steel size, what to "skin' the door with ( I would like to insulate it as well), how to work the hinges and locks so they cant be hammered off ect, and how to make it reasonably water tight (I know it wont be fully water tight but would like to stop the rain forcing it's way through the joints as much as I can)

Anyone built something like this, or have a link to any info ?

Thanks in advance

 

[voipio]

Have a look at the link below for some ideas, sizes and prices. If you already have an existing up and over door, the chances are it might be one of the "standard" sizes i.e. getting a replacement may not be too difficult.

https://www.thegaragedoorcentre.co.uk/replacementgaragedoors

 

[skotl]

Hi all

My up and over door on my single garage is on its last legs, and I'm thinking of building a replacement frame/doors myself. The garage is down the side of my house so while it needs to be reasonably secure, I don't need to go crazy on it, but I have motorcycles so it needs to be pretty substantial. I fancy twin doors, one for everyday access, and the other to open when I need to get my bike out.

I'm struggling to know where to start, things like ... frame steel size, door frame steel size, what to "skin' the door with ( I would like to insulate it as well), how to work the hinges and locks so they cant be hammered off ect, and how to make it reasonably water tight (I know it wont be fully water tight but would like to stop the rain forcing it's way through the joints as much as I can)

Anyone built something like this, or have a link to any info ?

Thanks in advance

Welcome to the forum

I had exactly the same idea almost five years ago to the day. Plenty debate at the time so you might find the thread useful: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/replacing-an-up-and-over-garage-door.57153/

How does it look, five years on? Exactly the same as it looked when I wrote the post - never quite got round to it...

 

[duncans]

would deff be far stronger making out of box section for the frame then box section for the 2 doors get them welded up then look for the hinges and you can buy locks that you can fit in the box section for the doors that should be strong enough but no matter what you do if someone wants some think they will go for the weakest part the room my friend was telling me they took a brand new motorbike through the roof how the hell they lifted it that high but they did thieving sods

 

[mrfennerg]

Have a look at the link below for some ideas, sizes and prices. If you already have an existing up and over door, the chances are it might be one of the "standard" sizes i.e. getting a replacement may not be too difficult.

https://www.thegaragedoorcentre.co.uk/replacementgaragedoors

Cheers, now wondering if I could use insulated cladding like they use on the side of industrial buildings, in a "u channel" frame after looking at these ? Oh and bloody hell their doors are expensive !!!

 

[mrfennerg]

would deff be far stronger making out of box section for the frame then box section for the 2 doors get them welded up then look for the hinges and you can buy locks that you can fit in the box section for the doors that should be strong enough but no matter what you do if someone wants some think they will go for the weakest part the room my friend was telling me they took a brand new motorbike through the roof how the hell they lifted it that high but they did thieving sods

Like you say mate, if they want it they will have it ! Might have to see if I can find some remade hinges that are strong and have slight adjustability built in, I reckon I could stick mortice locks top and bottom ?

 

[GrahamGKD]

I made my barn door style workshop (garage) doors from 40 by 40 box and skinned them with (something like) 1.5mm sheet. The door frame was made from more 40 by 40 box. I fabricated the housing for a lock something like this one into the box and fitted a top quality euro cylinder. I fabricated bolts for the second door to open and designed them so the bolts can't be pulled with the other door closed. i.e. if someone gets in through the window or side door they can't pull the bolts and swing both doors open. I used weld on hinges from calmore something like these ones. As the hinges are on the outside I put some plate down the inside of the hinged side of the doors so no-one can get in by cutting the hinges. That was all done 12 or 13 years ago - I have been very pleased with them. I hope that helps with your thinking.

 

[duncans]

it will be a damn site cheaper if you do it your self mate and you will no it be very strong there might be members who have done it themselves as it's nice to get other peoples ideas as well as your own isn't it mate I've never done it but if I had a garage like you id deff have a go at that

 

[mrfennerg]

I made my barn door style workshop (garage) doors from 40 by 40 box and skinned them with (something like) 1.5mm sheet. The door frame was made from more 40 by 40 box. I fabricated the housing for a lock something like this one into the box and fitted a top quality euro cylinder. I fabricated bolts for the second door to open and designed them so the bolts can't be pulled with the other door closed. i.e. if someone gets in through the window or side door they can't pull the bolts and swing both doors open. I used weld on hinges from calmore something like these ones. As the hinges are on the outside I put some plate down the inside of the hinged side of the doors so no-one can get in by cutting the hinges. That was all done 12 or 13 years ago - I have been very pleased with them. I hope that helps with your thinking.

Cheers , I'll have look at the links

 

[mrfennerg]

it will be a damn site cheaper if you do it your self mate and you will no it be very strong there might be members who have done it themselves as it's nice to get other peoples ideas as well as your own isn't it mate I've never done it but if I had a garage like you id deff have a go at that

Cant afford to buy a set mate ! This way I can build them over a few months and spread the cost !

 

[Ashley Burton]

I definitely like the idea of split doors!

Sheet metal on a box frame work, Insulated with it lined on the inside

Do you have any other access into the garage? If not a smaller door within one of the split doors could be an idea

 

[mrfennerg]

I definitely like the idea of split doors!

Sheet metal on a box frame work, Insulated with it lined on the inside

Do you have any other access into the garage? If not a smaller door within one of the split doors could be an idea

Theres a small window, which I'm going to build a frame for the inside with some mesh in it, other than that just the up and over door. Will probably go 1/3-2/3 doors.

 

[GrahamGKD]

Cheers , I'll have look at the links

No worries - happy to send pictures if needed but by PM rather than publishing my security arrangements on the internet.

 

[Olderisbetter]

It was way cheaper to make the garage doors and they are secure enough and not a complicated design considering they open 180 degrees,
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/garage-extension.88594/page-2

The hinges now have a pin added on each one so in the closed position the are locked in place

 

[mrfennerg]

It was way cheaper to make the garage doors and they are secure enough and not a complicated design considering they open 180 degrees,
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/garage-extension.88594/page-2

The hinges now have a pin added on each one so in the closed position the are locked in place
View attachment 226449

Cheers I'll have a look later

 

[Screwdriver]

I DARE you, gwan, I DOUBLE dare you...

 

[slimjim]

I am in the same boat, the door is broken, it was a standard size, but I plan on dropping the floor half a metre, so the door will need to be longer to compensate.

 

[Screwdriver]

Virtually any sort of door is going to be better security than an upandover. Regarding the build, all you really need to do is make sure you make some nice strong frames and a decent door covering. You can add security to the door once its up by adding steel bars, floor pins and typical door locks. My advice would be make it look sturdy but don't go overboard with the "look" of security (looks like you have something to hide) but make it obvious that it is a solid barrier to anyone who might poke at it to see how easy it might be to break in.

 

[Feet 'n Inches]

Around 10 years ago our neighbours suddenly decided to move to Spain so their semi-detached bungalow went on the market cheap for a quick sale. The late mother-in-law left us enough money to buy their place and knock through. For some reason those neighbours decided to knock half the garage down, walling most of the front leaving a 3 ft wide entry door made of rotting wood (the frame was and still is very sound. Once we'd settled in I made a steel door from 20 x 20 box and 2 mm sheet. It's hinged on 4 x 4" butt hinges which are concealed from the outside behind a strip of steel. Security is via a rack and pinion door bolt and a sturdy bolt and padlock into the ground. The steel cost a bit but it was worth every penny.

 

[Toylander]

Hi all

My up and over door on my single garage is on its last legs, and I'm thinking of building a replacement frame/doors myself. The garage is down the side of my house so while it needs to be reasonably secure, I don't need to go crazy on it, but I have motorcycles so it needs to be pretty substantial. I fancy twin doors, one for everyday access, and the other to open when I need to get my bike out.

I'm struggling to know where to start, things like ... frame steel size, door frame steel size, what to "skin' the door with ( I would like to insulate it as well), how to work the hinges and locks so they cant be hammered off ect, and how to make it reasonably water tight (I know it wont be fully water tight but would like to stop the rain forcing it's way through the joints as much as I can)

Anyone built something like this, or have a link to any info ?

Thanks in advance

About 20 years ago I did just that at my father's garage. I used box section to make the frames and welded flat bar round the inside of the frames. I then cut up the old door to sheet the inside of the frames. My father no longer lives there but when I drive past I can see they are still there.