Fuel Line Leak Repair

[Ubique]

It appears to be squirting fuel from the outside of the bend, not where it might rub on the engine cover.

You can just see the cover in the extreme right of the OP's photo, it doesn't just sit over the top of the pipe, it comes down the side of the pipe. Those type of fuel lines are used on many vehicles, I've never known one to leak without some form of outside influence.

 

[ajlelectronics]

You can just see the cover in the extreme right of the OP's photo, it doesn't just sit over the top of the pipe, it comes down the side of the pipe. Those type of fuel lines are used on many vehicles, I've never known one to leak without some form of outside influence.

They leak because the Ethanol destroys the rubber and it cracks on any external bend.

 

[Ubique]

It's not a rubber pipe though.

 

[RichardM]

Is it a high pressure fuel injection pipe? Can you not just replace the whole section?

 

[Onoff]

There is no physical abrasion mark that I can see on the pipe. I will take another, closer look mind.

I will say that the pipe seems to have moved downward, away from its clip on the LHS. You can see the dirt mark I think.

 

[Ubique]

That's what should be done, the pressure is around 3-5 bar IIRC

 

[Onoff]

That's what should be done, the pressure is around 3-5 bar IIRC

I will contact my local Ford dealer. D'you think these clip removal tools we've printed will work?

5/16" 8mm Fuel Line Disconnect Tool for SAABs and other cars. by Samuelf78

A tool to easily disconnect fuel lines from their connections on the fuel rail, filter or similar.Please give me feedback about how well it works. Will adjust model with feedback in mind.

www.thingiverse.com

Fuel Line disconnect tool Jeep by Dantla

Small tool to disconnect the quick connect fitting between fuel line and fuel rail. Fits on 8mm lines (5/16'').Suitable for:Jeep Wrangler TJFord Bronco (1992)

www.thingiverse.com

Look similar in principle to Ford part 310-040 which I believe is the correct tool:

Not that I feel like repairing the bloody thing as I'm under the weather a bit!

 

[RichardM]

Search: 1 result found for "1523195"

Explore the official Ford UK catalogue and online shop for accessories, performance parts, service plans and extended warranties, with selected free shipping.

shop.ford.co.uk

 

[Edward Teach]

I would say, joining the pipe as suggested, will not work effectively, because of the pressure.
For it to work effectively, the inside of the pipe would need to be supported.
It may be a better policy to insert a joiner, with a new bend, second hand or what ever from another ford Mondeo.
A little heat, hot air, not flame, to the outer pipe, so the insert will 'go', with a clip fitted to either end for back up.

 

[Ubique]

I will contact my local Ford dealer. D'you think these clip removal tools we've printed will work?

5/16" 8mm Fuel Line Disconnect Tool for SAABs and other cars. by Samuelf78

A tool to easily disconnect fuel lines from their connections on the fuel rail, filter or similar.Please give me feedback about how well it works. Will adjust model with feedback in mind.

www.thingiverse.com

Fuel Line disconnect tool Jeep by Dantla

Small tool to disconnect the quick connect fitting between fuel line and fuel rail. Fits on 8mm lines (5/16'').Suitable for:Jeep Wrangler TJFord Bronco (1992)

www.thingiverse.com

Look similar in principle to Ford part 310-040 which I believe is the correct tool:

View attachment 308849
Not that I feel like repairing the bloody thing as I'm under the weather a bit!

Something like that should be fine, I just have the generic 'small to big' set from one of the tool vans, I've known people cut a piece out of an aerosol cap and fold it round the pipe when there's nothing else to hand.
ETA These.

 

[bricol]

I'd be tempted to try an Enots/Wades compression fitting in the area of the leak.

Don't know about Ford, but two small screwdrivers, or allen keys, inserted carefully to depress the locking tabs on fuel connectors have worked on Rover, Alfa, Mazda, Vauxhall and Dodge so far for me.

 

[Onoff]

I've just ordered a complete new line from Ford. Collecting later today. Guy at the local dealer said he'll lend me the tool too.

I'll still have the bits @ajlelectronics is sorting me as a standby for the next one!

 

[colnerov]

Hi, As said there's a lot of counterfeit fuel hose about, if they can fake the hose they can fake the writing along its length. You can't just go by price because sometimes it's profiteering. You need to get it from a reputable dealer. I get mine from @ajlelectronics of this parish which I did earlier in the week ( I'm the reason he's out of clips having had the last ones).

Colin

 

[Ubique]

I'd be tempted to try an Enots/Wades compression fitting in the area of the leak.

Don't know about Ford, but two small screwdrivers, or allen keys, inserted carefully to depress the locking tabs on fuel connectors have worked on Rover, Alfa, Mazda, Vauxhall and Dodge so far for me.

I'm curious, what sort of compression fitting would you use on a radiussed bend in a complex blended 'plastic' (for want of a better term) pipe that carries fuel at up to 5bar in an engine bay, subject to heat and vibration?

ETA - the following article describes the polymers and construction of a fuel line https://www.plastics.gl/extrusion-profile/pa612-replaces-pa6-as-inner-layer-in-fuel-line-systems/ typically, Diesel fuel lines were PA12/PA6/EVOH/PA6/PP/PA12 I know the OP's is petrol but I'm not at work today so have limited access to specifications.

 

[Ubique]

Hi, As said there's a lot of counterfeit fuel hose about, if they can fake the hose they can fake the writing along its length. You can't just go by price because sometimes it's profiteering. You need to get it from a reputable dealer....

the OP has already said he's getting it from Ford, how reputable you consider them to be is another matter, their supply chain doesn't suffer counterfeit parts being injected in.

 

[Onoff]

I've gone with the OEM part so as to have just two connections rather than 4 with a repair. Just shy of £80 inc the dreaded.

The repair bits I'm getting will allow me to do the best repair job I can if ever it's absolutely critical and I've not time to replace it.

 

[colnerov]

the OP has already said he's getting it from Ford, how reputable you consider them to be is another matter, their supply chain doesn't suffer counterfeit parts being injected in.

Hi, I wasn't referring to the OPs fuel line problem, which as you say should be replaced like for like. I was commenting on the vagaries of fuel hose that's generally available for the aftermarket.

Colin

 

[Onoff]

I've had discussions with top bearing makers about the counterfeit issues they come across right down to the same boxes used and batch numbers copied. Apparently it's even been an issue in passenger jet aircraft!

A bearing supplier once said to me " I can do SKF for £40, Japanese for £20 or Chinese for £4.


Those Chinese bearings are still going!

 

[bricol]

I'm curious, what sort of compression fitting would you use on a radiussed bend in a complex blended 'plastic' (for want of a better term) pipe that carries fuel at up to 5bar in an engine bay, subject to heat and vibration?

ETA - the following article describes the polymers and construction of a fuel line https://www.plastics.gl/extrusion-profile/pa612-replaces-pa6-as-inner-layer-in-fuel-line-systems/ typically, Diesel fuel lines were PA12/PA6/EVOH/PA6/PP/PA12 I know the OP's is petrol but I'm not at work today so have limited access to specifications.

Any - 5 bar is nowt - the tubing will fail before the fitting.

Cut the end out, or wherever the leak is, insert suitable fitting, sleeve etc. Won't meet OEM spec, but if it is leak free, its better than what he has. As I said, "tempted". I have used them to repair similar problems when OEM is no longer available, or on specials.

Used similar in a lot more adverse conditions than an automotive engine bay - higher temp, more pressure, more crap, liquid and solid, flying around external to it.

 

[Ubique]

That's the problem, the tubing will fail before the fitting. As you can see, the tubing is radiussed, it's not flexible, it's thermo-set, so will resist attempts to straighten it enough to get it into a compression fitting. Heating (most likely overheating) it to 'make it fit' would probably compromise the structural integrity of the tubing, leaving a weak spot.
IMO, it would be a bodge, one that would most likely cause an insurance assessor to reject a claim for 'car burst into flames'.