Freelander 2 rear subframe replacement

[Kayos]

It seems when LR switched to unibody, the chassis department moved to the subframe department

I'd heard of them rusting but mine looked ok, until I heard a twang noise and the car tried to drive into a hedge

Inspection revealed one of the mounting points was no longer attached

Luckily I have booked it into a garage, all new arms and bolts (including main mounting bolts) as well. I will be assisting and finally servicing the Haldex

Should be done over the weekend then 4 wheel alignment booked Monday

 

[Robotstar5]

Freelander 1 had a recall for rear subframe mounting bolts, hopefully sorted for the FL2.

 

[Kayos]

Freelander 1 had a recall for rear subframe mounting bolts, hopefully sorted for the FL2.

£47 for 4 genuine bolts is steep, but I will feel better knowing they have all been swapped out

 

[Kayos]

I'm doing this job myself, admittedly on a 2 post with help

I had about 3 hours on it yesterday, just the diff to unbolt and remove then the subframe can be unbolted

Spent the first 30 minutes needle gunning and spraying everything

Biggest pain so far has been the 6 prop shaft bolts, M6 E torx with thread lock and terrible access, I will clean the threads and be fitting new cap heads, with thread lock

Maybe I should have tried welding it?

 

[addjunkie]

Maybe I should have tried welding it?

In the old days the MOT man would say no….dont suppose its changed!

 

[sako243]

I suspect by the time you start attacking that to weld it there won't be much left. I had a bit like that on the 6x6 chassis where a new cross member had been welded in during the modifications with no drain holes. I ended up cutting out an 18" chunk of the chassis on the inside and underneath to get back to solid metal.

Given you have a replaceable part I'd replace it.

 

[Kayos]

Thanks for the comments, I was (half) joking about the welding, trying to keep it forum relevant

I should have a few more hours on it today, plan is to get everything dropped, new stuff in place and ready to go. Driving it home is a bonus at this point

 

[jo1010]

....
I'd heard of them rusting but mine looked ok,.....
View attachment 537831

New one looks very nice but a lot of rust traps by design and not galvanised ....needs a LOT of extra protection before and after fitting if your keeping it....

 

[bricol]

That's not exactly happened overnight though - a bit of preventative maintenance over the years...

 

[Kayos]

That's not exactly happened overnight though - a bit of preventative maintenance over the years...

I've only had it since last August so strongly suspect that ship had sailed long ago

 

[Kayos]

New one looks very nice but a lot of rust traps by design and not galvanised ....needs a LOT of extra protection before and after fitting if your keeping it....

The chap I bought the subframe from has sold almost 1000 of them

Not planning on doing it again so completely agree, it will be getting protection on the body, top of the subframe and the bottom of the subframe

 

[bricol]

I've only had it since last August so strongly suspect that ship had sailed long ago

Ah, I'll forgive you.

Caught the front sub-frame on my Alfa in time to prevent much degradation.

 

[Kayos]

Had a couple of hours today and now have it completely stripped, the rotten mount was fully detached...

The mounting bolts came out nice, and only surface rust on the body

That will be treated and protected before the new one goes up

Hoping to drive it out of the garage tomorrow, and for a full alignment

No pics today, hard deadline to leave

 

[Robotstar5]

........Hoping to drive it out of the garage tomorrow, and for a full alignment

I fitted a couple of track rod ends to my FL1 and took it to the place I use for tyres to get the tracking checked/set, they set it slightly different to the factory settings as they had found from years of experience that their settings were an improvement over the "book" settings.

 

[Kayos]

Few hours on this today, like I said, he works odd hours so I'm doing it when he is there

Chassis cleaned and protected with waxoyl

I put the diff on a trolley, serviced the Haldex (at last!) then put the new subframe over the diff and bolted it up, but not too tight.
I wheeled it under the car and lowered it in place, nice and easy to line the bolts up

I spent a bit of time cleaning the threads on the prop coupling and bolted that up with new bolts

All the suspension is loosely fitted, will be doing the alignment once I've refitted the anti roll bar and new drop links

All the bolts will get a final torque when it is at ride height, followed by protection on the new subframe

It hasn't been too bad and doing it myself on a 2 post means I've saved money and learned as well

 

[tom2207]

get some acf on it quick ,, well done .

 

[Kayos]

Done

Set the alignment up with his gear, going for a full 4 wheel alignment in the morning

Old one is in a bit of a state

I reckon 8am start on a ramp it's a day maybe 1.5 day job. I'm 10 hours including Haldex service, front drop links and spread over 3 days