freelander 2 front brakes

[BrokenBiker]

are the calipers prone for sticking/seizing on these?

noticed earlier after nearly 3 weeks of smooth driving that im getting a wheel wobble under heavier braking from higher speeds, so a warped disc, however it wasnt like it originally so a bit of a feel around and the passenger front wheel was noticably hot after about a 15 mile drive, others were cool.

im thinking stuck caliper which is cooking the disc.

i wont be messing around with it, ill have a look at it monday and if my suspicions are true i will just throw a new caliper and a pair of discs at it, but wondering if i should be concerened the other side may also suffer at some point?

 

[Smallfry]

Not that I have ever heard of, certainly no more than anything else

Has it been standing around a long time ? Check for play in the wheel bearings while you are looking.

 

[BrokenBiker]

Not that I have ever heard of, certainly no more than anything else

Has it been standing around a long time ? Check for play in the wheel bearings while you are looking.

Not sure if it's been sat, don't know how long it was for sale for

I've ordered a caliper as a precaution and a set of discs. It's only noticeable under braking after driving a bit which again leads to me think it's from disc getting hot but will check bearing before the wheel comes off although I have no other bearing symptoms.

 

[tom2207]

nope , not seen a problem with them from my end ,,,, maybe worth a strip and a clean and a proper greasing depending on whos been doing the pads.
lazy folk swing them and then use aftermarket cheap pads , and there in lies many an issue .

 

[Kayos]

Mine has more dust on the drivers front

I'm planning a complete overhaul but not calipers/carriers

 

[tom2207]

Mine has more dust on the drivers front

I'm planning a complete overhaul but not calipers/carriers

I always do both pins and the carriers , including tapping the runways with a small chisel to get them back flat and with sharp corners ,,, takes twenty mins more , but you dont get comebacks that way either ,,, I do the carriers with acf 50 and give them a wipe , they look tidy too ,,,[ when brake pads are costing more than 350 quid whats the point in skrimping fifteen mins on the fitting and tidying up . ] I hate the swing and sling way of doing pads ,,, its fast but its lazy lazy lazy .

 

[Kayos]

I always do both pins and the carriers , including tapping the runways with a small chisel to get them back flat and with sharp corners ,,, takes twenty mins more , but you dont get comebacks that way either ,,, I do the carriers with acf 50 and give them a wipe , they look tidy too ,,,[ when brake pads are costing more than 350 quid whats the point in skrimping fifteen mins on the fitting and tidying up . ] I hate the swing and sling way of doing pads ,,, its fast but its lazy lazy lazy .

I meant I'm not replacing the calipers and carriers, only ever had to do that following serious neglect by a previous owner

 

[tom2207]

I meant I'm not replacing the calipers and calipers, only ever had to do that following serious neglect by a previous owner

a lot of brake issues can be traced back to lazy mechanics , a lot of young mechanics Ive seen would rather spend ten mins extra playing on their phone than spend it cleaning slides and carriers ,,, at the end of the day , the job still rolls out of the door , and thats it . but one of the ways tends to ensure its not back next week . Ive worked in places where no one but me puts a bar on wheel nuts , let alone a torque wrench , just two ugga duggas and off they go ,,,, dont get me started ,,, lol ,, Im old school and Im proud of being old school.. I have never sent a car out without baring the wheels ,,, Ill admit I dont always torque them , but by now I have a fairly well calibrated right arm.

 

[pedrobedro]

I wouldn't order a new calliper till I'd looked at the brake concerned. I find it's usually a rusty slide sticking or someone has used Copaslip and it's turned to glue.

 

[Guineafowl]

I always do both pins and the carriers , including tapping the runways with a small chisel to get them back flat and with sharp corners ,,, takes twenty mins more , but you dont get comebacks that way either ,,, I do the carriers with acf 50 and give them a wipe , they look tidy too ,,,[ when brake pads are costing more than 350 quid whats the point in skrimping fifteen mins on the fitting and tidying up . ] I hate the swing and sling way of doing pads ,,, its fast but its lazy lazy lazy .

Very common problem up here too - the caliper carrier rusts and jams the ears of the pads. OP’s problem is most likely this or seized slide pins. Best to tap and brush the rust away rather than grind the pad ear down, as some do. I’ve been thinking of getting a small air needle gun for this job.

if I do this ^ and copper grease the ears, I don’t have to tw*t the old pads off with a hammer and chisel next time.

 

[tom2207]

Very common problem up here too - the caliper carrier rusts and jams the ears of the pads. OP’s problem is most likely this or seized slide pins. Best to tap and brush the rust away rather than grind the pad ear down, as some do. I’ve been thinking of getting a small air needle gun for this job.

if I do this ^ and copper grease the ears, I don’t have to tw*t the old pads off with a hammer and chisel next time.

I use a small ,, 10mm ish ,, chisel for slides and you can get right into the corners , a wire brush in a grinder does a great job on the rest ,, the small needle guns are mighty ,,, try a shot of acf 50 on the carrier , or even spray waxol and let it dry then wipe off the excess , keeps tem good for ages ,,, its the only use I have for all the old tins of waxol we had laying about after switching to acf

 

[BrokenBiker]

I'll be having a good look at it when the bits arrive, if the slide pins are crapped up or the piston is seized I will just change the caliper, vacuum bleed it, new discs on both sides and call it a day. I will then clean up the caliper, slides, new seals and stick it on the shelf as a just in case part...I may clock the discs to see if they are actually warped, but I've got new ones so they will get changed anyway and the old will get used as stand bases for somethi. will check bearing, track rod ends and lower ball joints as I'm going as well and have a good look round while I'm in there, but the fault is only after a reasonable amount of driving and only when I'm on the brakes so leaning that way at the moment. I'm off all week though so plenty of time to sort anything else

 

[Guineafowl]

I use a small ,, 10mm ish ,, chisel for slides and you can get right into the corners , a wire brush in a grinder does a great job on the rest ,, the small needle guns are mighty ,,, try a shot of acf 50 on the carrier , or even spray waxol and let it dry then wipe off the excess , keeps tem good for ages ,,, its the only use I have for all the old tins of waxol we had laying about after switching to acf

Two things I’d like to try now - ACF50 and Fertan rust converter. Now I’ve got the two-poster I might actually bother to go over the chassis on the Td5. Or, just let it go and fit a new chassis…

I had it undersealed, which I slightly regret now.

 

[tom2207]

Two things I’d like to try now - ACF50 and Fertan rust converter. Now I’ve got the two-poster I might actually bother to go over the chassis on the Td5. Or, just let it go and fit a new chassis…

I had it undersealed, which I slightly regret now.

its the inside that will be needing attention ,, well and the rear x member and all the outriggers and the likes ,,, but get some acf into the inside of the chassis ,,, do it every couple of years , at least that way you can choose when to do a chassis job rather than the mot man telling you when you have to do it...

 

[jmp49]

Two things I’d like to try now - ACF50 and Fertan rust converter. Now I’ve got the two-poster I might actually bother to go over the chassis on the Td5. Or, just let it go and fit a new chassis…

I had it undersealed, which I slightly regret now.

I have 5l of fertan wax to inject inside the chassis of my 90 in a bid to protect the inside, and if I'm happy with it, the 110 & 101's chassis that are waiting too.
I bought a injection gun that goes on the compressor to squirt it in and I'll warm the can a bit first to help it flow.
My only regrets so far was painting the outside with por-15, because I contacted the importer and told them it was for a brand new galv chassis, and asked if their etch primer was enough as I didnt have any mordant liquid to key it, and they said yes, its perfect for that, just be sure to follow the instructions precisely.
So I followed the instructions to the letter, steam cleaned and lightly keyed, then used their own brand expensive primer, thinners, and topcoat following instructions on the times between processes and now, before the build up has even finished, its peeling away from the galv. I'm not about to tear it down and take all the new polybushes and engine etc out to redo everything so I'm just going to wire brush their crap off and brush acid etch then coachpaint over it like I should have done in the first place.

 

[tom2207]

I have 5l of fertan wax to inject inside the chassis of my 90 in a bid to protect the inside, and if I'm happy with it, the 110 & 101's chassis that are waiting too.
I bought a injection gun that goes on the compressor to squirt it in and I'll warm the can a bit first to help it flow.
My only regrets so far was painting the outside with por-15, because I contacted the importer and told them it was for a brand new galv chassis, and asked if their etch primer was enough as I didnt have any mordant liquid to key it, and they said yes, its perfect for that, just be sure to follow the instructions precisely.
So I followed the instructions to the letter, steam cleaned and lightly keyed, then used their own brand expensive primer, thinners, and topcoat following instructions on the times between processes and now, before the build up has even finished, its peeling away from the galv. I'm not about to tear it down and take all the new polybushes and engine etc out to redo everything so I'm just going to wire brush their crap off and brush acid etch then coachpaint over it like I should have done in the first place.

I wouldnt be putting wax inside a chassis ,,, go do some reading and thinking before you do .... thats all I will say before I get my Speedglas and leave .

 

[BrokenBiker]

Very common problem up here too - the caliper carrier rusts and jams the ears of the pads. OP’s problem is most likely this or seized slide pins. Best to tap and brush the rust away rather than grind the pad ear down, as some do. I’ve been thinking of getting a small air needle gun for this job.

if I do this ^ and copper grease the ears, I don’t have to tw*t the old pads off with a hammer and chisel next time.

hadnt considered it was the carrier, but will have a look and will definitely clean it up before refitting...i have small burrs, wire brushes, cold chisels and sand paper so should be able to get it nice and clean

 

[BrokenBiker]

I wouldnt be putting wax inside a chassis ,,, go do some reading and thinking before you do .... thats all I will say before I get my Speedglas and leave .

little flash fire never hurt anyone

 

[tom2207]

hadnt considered it was the carrier, but will have a look and will definitely clean it up before refitting...i have small burrs, wire brushes, cold chisels and sand paper so should be able to get it nice and clean

you will be surprised how much rust scale builds up ,,, when I show it to some '' mechanics '' they cant believe it ,,, some of them even stopped buffing new pads to make them fit ,,,,

 

[tom2207]

little flash fire never hurt anyone

tell the loss adjuster