Hows it going guys im soon going to be starting to build a 25sq meter shed in my back garden to use as a gym and man cave . It will be a timber frame with shiplap outside walls insulation and then prob ply on the inside . My question is what type of foundation will I need . Dose a wooden shed need footings for the walls in the foundation? I was thinking of diging up about 8 inches and putting down and compacting hardcore 8 inches and then put 6 inches thick concerete slab with re bar and then just build the shed on that .dose that seem ok or am I going wrong somewhere?
- Thread starter cobcorsa
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cumbriasteve
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My garage floor is 4" concrete with no rebar included, on compacted hardcore and supports heavy vehicles so perhaps for a shed you are over engineering a bit.
As mentioned, unless you 'need' a concrete floor, I would have a wooden floor myself, much warmer in winter.
If it was a wooden floor with the correct bearers it could be sat on paving slabs if the sub soil was firm enough, although a purpose built slab always seems more professional I think.
As mentioned, unless you 'need' a concrete floor, I would have a wooden floor myself, much warmer in winter.
If it was a wooden floor with the correct bearers it could be sat on paving slabs if the sub soil was firm enough, although a purpose built slab always seems more professional I think.
Shox Dr
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I'd sit the floor on joists depending on span and joist size at 400-600mm centres. Sat on a strip foundation 2' wide by 6" deep, sat on 4" of compacted hardcore. The ground under the 'shed' needs to be reduced by 4" a weed mesh put down and covered with your wife's favourite coloured stone
I should have mentioned this earlier
My shed/workshop (10ft x 20ft) is on a slope which drops approx 2ft in 15ft.
At appox 1 metre centres it is supported on 6"x6" (I think) posts (some only 2" high) which in turn are place on 12"x12" concrete pads, especially designed to take the posts. Apart from digging out 3"- 4" of soil to reach hard ground, little more preparation is needed.
One does need to be able to cut the posts accurately or the shed could slowly drift sideways.
No movement has been evident after 5yrs
If you would like the website for the 'pads' I'll find it, let me know.
My shed/workshop (10ft x 20ft) is on a slope which drops approx 2ft in 15ft.
At appox 1 metre centres it is supported on 6"x6" (I think) posts (some only 2" high) which in turn are place on 12"x12" concrete pads, especially designed to take the posts. Apart from digging out 3"- 4" of soil to reach hard ground, little more preparation is needed.
One does need to be able to cut the posts accurately or the shed could slowly drift sideways.
No movement has been evident after 5yrs
If you would like the website for the 'pads' I'll find it, let me know.
cardiffrob
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I live next to a railway. They rolled a dozen or more concrete sleepers down the side and I used them for foundations for our garden shed. Evidently they sell off used ones for under a fiver. 300kg, 9 feet by 1 by 1.
Unlikely to ever break!
Unlikely to ever break!
normspanners
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**** hell your builder start early !!! 
I have used Insulated kingspan metal cladding wall sheets as the base for a few sheds/dog kennals using the flat side up and built the shed directly off the sheets using them as the floor they are warm easy to clean, you can mop them and rats cant get through I even used them under my conservetory flagging just spread dry sand down on top of hard core 'shuffle' them a bit and its done !
N
I have used Insulated kingspan metal cladding wall sheets as the base for a few sheds/dog kennals using the flat side up and built the shed directly off the sheets using them as the floor they are warm easy to clean, you can mop them and rats cant get through I even used them under my conservetory flagging just spread dry sand down on top of hard core 'shuffle' them a bit and its done !
N
For my bike shed I dug down 9", levelled it, put down the anti-weed membrane then laid several inches of type 1 hard-core with some smashed bricks. **** smashing bricks with a hammer it's damn hard work.
Then a layer of sand and block pavers. Way easier than messing about with concrete, to my mind. Given how it's delivered in bulk, the amount of time the lorry will spend with you before chucking it's load and running away, leaving you to barrow it all away - no ta.
When the shed's done with, it'll be nicer to have a paved area than a concrete raft and easier to break up as well
Then a layer of sand and block pavers. Way easier than messing about with concrete, to my mind. Given how it's delivered in bulk, the amount of time the lorry will spend with you before chucking it's load and running away, leaving you to barrow it all away - no ta.
When the shed's done with, it'll be nicer to have a paved area than a concrete raft and easier to break up as well
normspanners
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How many people can you get on your bike !! it must be massive by the size of the shed !! and dont you get punctures from the pins sticking out of the floor!!
I did one like that in my back yard and the wife said it looked great ----- but she was lookin from underneath, still it''s good for dancing on though
I did one like that in my back yard and the wife said it looked great ----- but she was lookin from underneath, still it''s good for dancing on though
I have *coff coff* more than one bike
The pins are M20 studding set into concrete filled flower pots. Shed base is bolted to it.
LOL at looking from underneath
Eww you can see how unlevel I got the kerbing
but the paving really is dead level all the way across! 